Friday, 2 September 2011

My Sewing Pattern Hoard: Outerwear

It's time for another installment of 'My Sewing Pattern Hoard'. I've fully abandoned dreams of whipping up a quick playsuit this year as I don't know about where you are, but round my way the mornings have definately starting to feel a bit nippy recently. Our summer was pretty rubbish, but I'm not complaining about the on-set of Autumn, you know where you are with Autumn. No-one complains that you have to put on a jacket, it's as it should be. You can still get some lovely days, and they are a bonus, but if it rains, that's ok too as it's kind of to be expected.

So, the chilly mornings are making me wistful for more of a variety of jackets to choose from and I've almost forgotten the gruling mission my navy wool coat project was so I've decided to dig out my outerwear patterns and put them up for discussion. Basically, I feel that if you live in UK, any coat or jacket you make that fits is never going to be time wasted. My navy wool coat, leopard coat and yellow jacket see far more wears than any other garment I've ever made, so I'm hoping you'll help make some decisions regarding this Autumn/Winter's sewing efforts:

I'm not sure how I feel about this coat. It looks quite a clean and simple shape, would it look like a little girl's coat though? I tried making the dress from this pattern and the bust shaping was for a comically high bust point. That shouldn't be a problem for the coat though as it's got intriguing shoulder darts instead. What colour/fabric would you make this in? I do love the potential for showcasing a set of seriously amazing buttons though.

LOVE this cape pattern. I'd love to make the shorter length in navy or black wool with the epaulettes and gold buttons! In fact, I've already traced this pattern ready for a ridiculously large piece of secondhand wool to fall into my lap!

Once again, not sure how I feel about the above coat pattern. In a similar vein to the top pattern, the buttons would be so eye catching!

I used this pattern back in 2008 when I made a yellow curtain version of the view on the right. Initially, I didn't wear it much, but then I was living in deepest darkest Essex at the time. Not a region known for its tolerance towards sartorial difference. But over the last year there have been months when I've worn it almost daily. Actually, I'm currently working on another version of this pattern with bracelet-length sleeves. I'm trying to draft a lining pattern for it, so don't hold your breath to see the finished project. I'm convinced it's going to be amazing though! (Hint: anchors will be involved!)

Hmmm, now this jacket could look a bit prim and 'twin set and pearls', but imagine this little blighter with some kitschy appliqued detailing on the front, like my swallow jacket, perhaps. I'm viewing this jacket as a kind of 'canvas for kitsch'. What would you apply?

I was really into this jacket pattern when I saw it on ebay, but now I'm not so sure. I have a sneaking suspicion that if you invested the time needed to make this jacket, that the outcome would be very different from the envelop. I can't even figure out what's up with the CF near the neck. Does it actually curve towards the start of the collar, or has the illustrator used some artistic licence here? Who can say? I do not have it in me to give the time needed to figuring it out. Not this year at least.

Not, anyway, whilst this cheeky little thing sits within my grasp:

HOW nice it this?! Oh, I want to make it in some incredible 1950s floral furnishing fabric that most likely will go with none of the rest of my clothes. Or in red like the chica in the top left corner. This makes me want to go through all my buttons to find the best big odd button and design the rest of the jacket around it. What would you like to see it made in?

Now I had such high hopes for this pattern that I poured over it and gazed at the line drawings on the inside sheets for an age. It's got two different body variations, three different neck options (one round neck and two different collars) and about a million different sleeve options. AND you can showcase some of those incredible big buttons. I imagined making hundreds of jackets from this pattern, and with the various combinations possible in different fabrics they'd all look totally different. I did a toile of the longer length with round neck and elasticated short sleeve and I was not impressed. The neck came out so wide that you would struggle to match it with an appropriate top or blouse to go underneath. The elastic of the gathered sleeves sat way too close to your armpit and the whole fit was kind of shapeless, neither fitted nor boxy. Now I see on the illustrations how far the jackets sit away from the body, I'd say that that's actually pretty accurate. Not what I was hoping for. I may go in for another go though, and start with the size below my normal one.

Umm, is this a pattern for a versatile, practical jacket waiting to be deployed, or a pattern for the most unimpressive dull garment to ever have precious sewing time wasted on it? (BTW, I was thinking red and white check wool, NOT silver mock-croc!).

I've also bought the PDF for this jacket from Burdastyle, so that's an option too. Coats and jackets take such a large amount of effort and time to create, please help me decide what pattern/s I should invest my project time into!

19 comments:

Catherine said...

OOOOh the Butterick 9730 - I would LOVE to see that made up... ermm I me that would look fantastic on you :-)

Simply delicious pattern.

Andrea said...

I think I like the Women's Realm coat the best for a heavy wool coat. The funnel collar takes it from girly to mod, which should be very on-trend this season, with The Hour and Pan Am tv shows influencing the season. Before you make either of the bottom 2 Simplicities, search for them on patternreview.com. I've seen very cute versions of them and dreadful ones that have put me off both of them.

Stacy aka Stacybeads said...

I absolutely love the first pattern, the Simplicity. I don't see it as little girly, but more mod, which I love. As long as you don't make it in a juvenile color, I think it would be fabulous. What about a houndstooth maybe?

Ashley said...

LOVE the Realm pattern and the cape coat! They're both so unique; they look young and sophisticated at the same time.

I actually have that Built By Wendy pattern, it's on my to-do list for Fall. I bet I'll wear it all the time as well. :)

margaret said...

The first coat is just like a great 1960s boucle tweedy vintage one I have. Seriously Make It! It is the most flattering winter coat I have. A little shaping in the back makes me look slim from behind and it's happy to wear because of the cheerful color. You can adjust those bust darts. The are more like gentle shape lines for the shoulder. Go Zo!!!!

Amber Elayne said...

My lord but how do you get any sewing done? I'd be staring and drooling and dreaming over my patterns all day long.... and then being more than a little indecisive!

I LOVE both the first pattern and the Realm (does that not sound uber-sci-fi geek-tastic or what??) one and think both would be sassy AND practical. They cover wrists, torso and waist. That being said, I love the Realm one more, for both the design details and the name :)

Now for a less than practical winter coat, Butterick 9730 is divine! Not so much of a fan of the others, except the line drawing at the end. The cape is cool too but I wonder how much longer they'll be around....

Good luck and I am in serious awe of your collection! Oh, and can't wait to see the finished product but no pressure!

Jane M said...

I love that first Simplicity pattern and think the shoulder dart would be so modern in a wool this year. Great collection to play with for inspiration.

Veronica Darling said...

SO many options! I'd go the Butterick checked jacket - but would it be warm enough? Certainly stylish enough but that cropped style might be chilly around your hips in the UK winter?

xoxo

Sølvi said...

Ohlala- these are some seriously pretty patterns!

I have cut out and am ready to go on a coat very similar to Simplicity 8591, so in my opinion, obviously, I don´t think it looks girly;-).

I am also loving the Realm coat and Butterick 9730. Oh, the options! Good luck with the choosing!

Linda said...

The red Butterick!
Oooooh please make the red Butterick!
It looks fabulous.

You are lucky you get to have an assortment of coats, we have minimal need for coats where I live.

vickikatemakes said...

The Cape! The Cape! With epaulets and gold anchor buttons. Praying to the gods of second hand wool to send the necessary yardage to you as soon as possible! And then, when you're done with the pattern can I borrow it so I can trace it out and send it back to you? Ooh, I love it sooooo much!

Alessa said...

I'm torn between the very first Simplicity and the Women's Realm coat. I'd make it up in red wool with very awesome, big gold buttons (maybe in a Celtic knot design?) and blue and white striped lining...

Bunnykins said...

I think the Butterick 8845 suit does have a front that is curved, slightly lowered/widened, and I think it's to showcase that era's necklaces: short but not choker lenght, and with graduated beads larger at the front. I agree with Margaret, the plain coat is just made for a fabulous tweed or boucle. Most of the vintage garments that have survived aren't the great ones as those got worn out, but I did make two coats like this, one of a navy tweed, and one from a wonderful teal boucle with bits of primary colours through it. Sounds too bright, but it wasn't, it was just gorgeous.

Claire (aka Seemane) said...

It so has to be the Women's Realm one IMHO - it's practical, yet different to what anyone else will have - and it's v. you :)!

MrsC said...

Zo with your fabulous figure, where curves rock and rule, I can't help but say that all of these patterns are too shapeless for you. Howz about a frocked coat? Waist definition rules!
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1266-products-3946.php?page_id=265
http://butterick.mccall.com/b5685-products-14757.php?page_id=872
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8465-products-8976.php?page_id=262
Not vintage, except that last one has a definite 1940's and 50's vibe to it :)

Jo Campbell said...

I have to say my favourite is the longer Realm one - very Audrey Hepburn.

Lily said...

Absolutely the 3rd from the top. It is spectacular and big buttons would be tremendous.

You must also make the cape. I reluctantly bought a cape a couple of months ago and it has changed my life! Now I can wear all my interesting sleeved dresses/tops in winter and not have to worry about them being crushed by normal jackets/cardigans.

I am planning a playsuit for the next week or so... but I worry... do playsuits have an age limit??

Scruffybadger said...

I vote butterick! It's so cute. But From what I've seen of your previous makes you have a knack of matching the funkiest fabric with its perfect pattern

Kiki von Tiki said...

I'd go for that first one and make it in a nice heavy upholstery floral brocade. Put a nice flannel lining in it and you're set for cooler weather.

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