Tuesday 9 February 2010

Underwear Update

Peops who are sweet enough to check my blog regularly may remember the pants and vest that I made in preparation of my Me-Made-March challenge. To recap, I plan to only wear items of clothing I have made myself (excluding bras, socks, tights and footwear) for the duration of march, in a bid to learn about the relationship I have with my creations and to better appreciate what I have and what I can produce. In reality the challenge has already begun as, since I came up with it, I have been attempting to plan and produce the items that I will need and currently do not have. Pant and vests were one of the main hurdles to overcome as I had not previously attempted to sew either garment.

Both the pants and vest were, thankfully, a success. But to think I've been sitting on my laurels after the initial success would be wrong! I have been experimenting further with some of the other types of underwear elastic I purchased on eBay and cranking out more which I would like to unveil to you now (fear not, there are no pics of said garments modelled by me!).


Almost immediately after making my own first pants and vest set, I made a virtually identical set to send to my best mate Vic along with the Bedsheet Dress. The success of comfy homemade pants wasn't something I felt I could keep to myself! The only difference with this set is that the pants are made with one technique of elastic application, rather than the two I used for my first pants (see that post for detailed description of the methods I figured out).


Once again using only one elastic technique (the easy one which attaches the elastic in one process rather than two), I swiftly knocked out another pair of pants for myself using the remnant from this stretch top. This fabric is pretty slinky and these are a joy to wear! This pair used up the last of the satin-edge red elastic. I applied a pre-made bow from here:


I got these pre-made bow sample cards a decade ago (I knew they would come in handy if I keep hold of them for long enough!) when a factory close to my university in Nottingham closed down and brought us heaps of samples and notions for the students to raid. There were whole massive tables full. That was an exciting day! I wish I could go back and snare a load of the underwear elastic I overlooked at the time!


Next up was another vest which was more of a refashion. You may recall the boat-neck stretch top from my initial advances into the world of stretch? Well, in hindsight it wasn't such a successful garment, the neck was too wide and the whole thing a little tight over the hips. Using a scallop-edge pink underwear elastic that top became this vest, which will be perfect for sleeping in. I created a little bust 'pinch' (not sure of the official term) by zigzagging a piece of elastic to the reverse whilst pulling it tight, so when released it pulls the fabric. I really like this technique on some mass-manufactured garments I've seen, and particularly like it applied to striped fabric as it distorts the lines of the stripes slightly. Oh, and I made matching pants from the remnant of this fabric and the same elastic, but didn't really warrant a photo.

Using more of the pink scallop-edge elastic I turned part of an unwanted T-shirt previously belonging to my boyfriend into these. This time I only used the two-step elastic application method (to summarise, you stitch the elastic to the raw edge of the fabric with a zigzag stitch right sides together down the centre of the elastic. You then flip the elastic over to the otherside, positioning it all so that just the cute scallop-edge is visable at the edge and top-stitch close to the edge trapping it all position. I would recommend a three-step zigzag for the topstitching if your machine does it. I've chosen to use a contrast thread, but of course I could have used black thread on these making the stitching less visable). This particular elastic has a fuzzy 'plush' backing, making it very nice against the skin and perfect for pants. I wanted to utilise that property so I chose the two-step technique. The one-step technique which results in the elastic laying on the outside of the fabric edge means the fuzziness isn't really in contact with the skin. Note: not all underwear elastic has a fuzzy/plush backing. If you're buying it from eBay like I did, check the description if it's a property you want. Another bow from the ex-factory score.

Hopefully this closeup will give you an idea of the method I'm attempting to describe.

The above pair of pants (front and back views!) are made from the remaining section of the same black T-shirt. It's fun to use the graphics from an old T-shirt and incorporate it into your new item. Well, for this pair I used a whole different type of elastic: FOE (fold over elastic). This stuff comes flat with a groove down the centre. You fold the elastic along this groove, trapping the edge of the fabric inside, and stitch over the top (once again I would recommend a three-stage zigzag). To get an idea of how the hell to approach this new type of elastic once I had my mits on it, I checked out this tutorial by Angry Chicken. In the tutorial, she is using woven fabric rather than stretch/knit. Whilst she is attaching the FOE to the woven fabric, she is pulling the elastic so the result is a gathered fabric look. You don't really do that when you are using stretch/knit fabric, but I would recommend giving it a little pull as you apply it to create a snug-ish fitting pair of pants, though it's not essential. This FOE I purchased has a satin finish, however some are matt, and some FOE's even have a fuzzy/plush backing for super-comfy pants.

So there you go peops, just wanted to share with you the journey to date that my undies making mission has taken. This is far from the end of the road, there will be more presented to you very soon. However, I think I've now got a handle on the different types of elastics for underwear on the market. The only thing I feel I have left to try is a vest made with the FOE. Agh! MORE challenges I'm setting myself! Have you tried making underwear? Did you discover anything you think I've failed to mention? Happy pant-making!

11 comments:

Tuppence said...

You know, I read your blog and I get so inspired. I just may have a go at this pant-making business.

mon ami said...

these are awesome! Thanks for writing more about your undie adventures (that sounds so wrong when I read it back to myself). I am inspired to give it a go myself.

For a little inspiration to only wear what you make check out this blog: http://www.huntandgather.ca/index.php?/make-shifft-project/make-shift-blog/. She is wearing only what she made (and I mean everything including shoes)for a year. A bit hardcore for me but it is interesting to check out.

Elisabeth said...

I spent a good deal of the past week end trying to make underpants, but I've found my machine just WON'T stitch on the stretchy fabric without behaving as though the thread tension is off. I'm VERY frustrated. I'm sure I'll work with it some more later, but for now I've had it with underpants!

Gail said...

I know what I'm doing with those tiny pieces of left over t-shirting that are just too good to throw out. Underwear is such a rip-off so well done girl.

naughty little pony said...

Whoa, these are pant-tastic! no seriously, I didn't know home made pants could be so good, I'm gonna give it another try. (clever-clogs!)
xxxxxxxxxx

Aurora F. said...

Those are all so cute, but what I'm really wondering now is how does one say "Middlesbrough"?

Clare said...

I attempted to make some pants out of an old T shirt too, but using a double needle to topstitch the outside of the elastic. The leg holes turned out great, but the fabric at the top stretched out massively! I think I need to buy the Built By Wendy book because I don't understand stretch fabrics as well as I think I did.. Your pants all look great!

Zoe said...

Many thanks peops for your comments! They are much appreciated, and I am really pleased if this post has inspired others to try making their own undies. Gail's right, they can be such a rip-off to buy and usually are so poorly made. Thanks Mon Ami, I am very aware of Makeshift Project, she is the main inspiration behind my Me-Made-March challenge! She is amazing and her project is so interesting. Oh, and Aurora F, 'Middlesborough' is pronounced 'Middles-bruh!' Happy pant-making ladies! xxx

EmilyKate said...

Fab fab fabpants! I really must try making some out of Simon's old graphic tee shirts, ta for the idea. I have never used FOE before either and I'm curious now to give it a go.

Karin said...

And these are gorgous too, you SO make me want to make my own underwear!

Ted Juhl said...

Your first underwear design is really good. My wife is actually trying to learn how to make pants and vests. Just last week, she was able to finish her first set. She wore them and asked me how she looks. It perfectly fits her!

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