Free Pattern Friday: Ruffle Bag

Welcome to my monthly 'Free Pattern Friday' feature, where I road test a free sewing pattern or tutorial: sometimes a children's one, sometimes an adult's one. I try to publish these posts every first Friday of the month, timed to provide inspiration for those who plan to get their sew on over the weekend. I firmly believe that, if you pick your projects carefully, sewing doesn't have to be a crazy-expensive way to clothe yourself and your family. Thanks to all the amazing pattern designers who have offered up their hard work for us to enjoy for free.

It's been a while since I road tested a bag pattern. Really I should do more, because A) they are more likely to be of use to my readers because there's no sizing or fit issues to contend with, B) they're a great scrap buster, C) they make great gifts, and D) I could do with a couple more bags in my life. Anyway, Pinterest threw up this cute ruffle bag tutorial by The Fabric Store the other day, and it seemed like a great project to showcase some precious woven fabric offcuts. 

The pattern is easy to access and download, without having to go through a checkout. The instructions are in the form of a blog post. Thanks, as always, to all the fabric designers and companies sharing resources with the sewing community for free. 

(image source: The Fabric Store)

Pattern type:

This pattern and tutorial are for a cute, lined drawstring bag with an internal pocket. The drawstrings form the handles, and there's a ruffle detail that runs along the joining edge of the bag. 

Sizing info:

The finished bag is about 36cm wide, from outer ruffle edge to outer ruffle edge when open. However, you could easily adjust your printer settings to make it bigger or small, or even draft you're own shape/size once you've got an idea of the original pattern pieces. 

Fabric info:

As long as you're using a roughly-mid weight woven fabric, I think you've got quite a lot of scope with fabric suitability. The examples they made for the tutorial used self-fabric for the lining and pocket. I used scraps of this gorgeous embroidered cotton lawn for the outer bag, and sections from the selvedge for the drawstring. 

For the ruffle, lining and pocket, I used some plain solid white cotton lawn from my stash. If your fabric is on the heavier side, I'd go with a lighter weight fabric for lining so it won't struggle too much to gather when closing the bag up. But please note that any contrast lining you pick will be visible at the very top opening of the bag. 

No haberdashery or fastenings are required, but you could use rope or cord for the drawstring if you didn't fancy making that out of fabric. 

Findings:

I need to say up top, this is a great pattern that is easy to access and the instructions are illustrated with clear photos of many of the steps.However, I must admit so I was fresh out of pattern testing for Fabric Godmother when I made these notes, so having just been in that headspace, it's going to sound like I'm nit-picking a bit. If you're a confident sewer, none of these points would likely prevent you from having a fun time making a cute bag. But there are definitely a few details missing that could have made the process smoother, and subsequently potentially more beginner-friendly.

The first thing I noticed is that there is no mention of how much seam allowance to use. Which is fine but probably expected these days by anyone used to sewing from a sewing pattern. Also, it wasn't clear exactly where you should align the ends of the ruffle when pinning it to the outer bag. An additional notch would have helped here. 

The instructions missed out explaining where to start and stop stitching when you're sewing both outer bags together along the curved edge, and also sewing the lining pieces. I ended up having to unpick sections because I assumed you started at and finished sewing at the top edge. I also don't understand why the instructions call for finishing/neatening the curved edges of both the outer bag and the lining, if the bag is literally going to be lined. 

Finally, and this is tiny, but it could have mentioned snipping away the points before you turn the bag through so you get neater corners. 

And one change I made was to make the inner pocket from two layers of fabric, turned through. I also added bar tacks at the top of the pocket opening on both sides to strengthen it against me chucking my phone in it repeatedly.   

Would I make it again?

Overall, I'm super happy with my little bag. I'm a bit scared of actually using something white in my day to day life, as I'm pretty sure it's going to get filthy very quickly. I do think the ruffle is a tiny bit oversized, so I'll scale that down a little next time, and possibly make the whole bigger and the drawstring/straps longer. But, Yes! I would definitely make this type of bag again if I had suitable fabric to use up. I might also make one as a little laundry bag for overnight trips. 

Free Pattern Friday: Petite Pegs for Babies

Welcome to my monthly 'Free Pattern Friday' feature, where I road test a free sewing pattern or tutorial: sometimes a children's one, sometimes an adult's one. I try to publish these posts every first Friday of the month, timed to provide inspiration for those who plan to get their sew on over the weekend. I firmly believe that, if you pick your projects carefully, sewing doesn't have to be a crazy-expensive way to clothe yourself and your family. Thanks to all the amazing pattern designers who have offered up their hard work for us to enjoy for free.

This wasn't the project I had planned for this month's instalment of Free Pattern Friday. However, I decided to make a last minute panic new baby project for a family we recently met, so I thought I could kill two birds with one stone. I'm out of the loop with baby sewing these days, but my Fabric Godmother colleague Phoebe reminded me of the excellent Petite Pegs pattern by Patterns for Pirates. I have absolutely downloaded and printed this one out before but, for some reason, I must have chucked most of my baby wear patterns into the recycling at some point. Anyway, huge thanks for Pattern for Pirates for sharing this great free pattern, along with the many other free patterns they have available, including more for babies. 

(image source: Patterns for Pirates)

Pattern type:

The website describes this pattern as 'a traditional legging with a knit waistband. They are a bit looser for baby to have growing room and a higher rise to cover diapers/nappies. They come with shorties (great for under dresses!), bike, capri and ankle length.

This pattern consists of just two pieces, the legs and the waistband. You could have a lot of fun mixing and matching prints, patterns and solid coloured jerseys. 

There is only one PDF file to contend with which includes both the instructions and the print-at-home pattern pages. 

Sizing info:

The pattern is graded into six sizes, from premmie baby to 12 months. I made the 3 month size because I wasn't sure if the family I was making these for had been swamped with new baby clothes. 

Fabric info:

In the pattern itself you are recommended to choose four way stretch jersey with at least 50% stretch horizontally and vertically with good recovery. They advise using a fabric with spandex/Lycra, which I would say is essential for making a waistband like this that isn't elasticated. I used a scrap of cotton/Lycra jersey I found in the scraps bin at work. It's a lovely blush colour with denim-blue stripes that I hope gives a gender neutral vibe. 

Findings:

This is a great little pattern that could only be improved, in my opinion, with more professional line drawings showing the style more clearly, and a different choice of typeface in the instructions. 

I like that there are lots of additional resources in the form of videos and blog posts to help beginners get to grips with using sewing patterns generally, and this one specifically. 

The only thing I'd add to the instructions is the suggestion to add a label to the back, because it's hard enough trying to dress a wriggly baby without making it clear what is the front and back. 

Would I make this again?

Absolutely! I've kept all the sizes in tact and traced off just the one size, so this will probably be my go-to baby pressie project going forwards. 

Free Pattern Friday: Stellan Tee for Adults

Welcome to my monthly 'Free Pattern Friday' feature, where I road test a free sewing pattern or tutorial: sometimes a children's one, sometimes an adult's one. I try to publish these posts every first Friday of the month, timed to provide inspiration for those who plan to get their sew on over the weekend. I firmly believe that, if you pick your projects carefully, sewing doesn't have to be a crazy-expensive way to clothe yourself and your family. Thanks to all the amazing pattern designers who have offered up their hard work for us to enjoy for free.

I guess that sharing another version of a previously road-tested-and-reviewed pattern might be considered cheating! Or at least unhelpful for blog readers who might be on the hunt for new-to-you free sewing patterns to try. Well, in each case, sorry. I have reviewed this pattern before and subsequently I won't be writing a whole new review post. But hopefully you can find some value in seeing which patterns I return to, and seeing what I chose to do differently this the second (or third) time round. 

The Pattern:

For the second time I made the Stellan Tee pattern by French Navy Patterns. Thanks, as always, to the designer for sharing this great resource with the sewing community for free. The designer describes it best: 'A modern take on the basic T-shirt, the Stellan Tee has a boxy, slightly cropped fit, proportionally long sleeves (super cute when rolled-up) and a subtly curved hemline'. 

What I did differently:

This time I chose a jersey with a very different handle. I picked up this slinky, drape-y, viscose jersey at a London fabric swap last year, which has very different properties to the cotton/elastane jersey I used for my first version. I extended the neck band piece because this fabric isn't super stretchy. 

I also decided to create a straight hem. I like the look of the original curved hem when it's untucked (or fully tucked in), but I think it looks a bit odd if you're tucking in just the front bit of the top, which I imagined I'd do with this slinky version. 

For speed, I omitted the back neck seam binding. And lastly, I shortened the sleeved by 2cm and turned them up without hemming, and stitched the turn ups in place. 

Thoughts:

My favourite part of the Stellan pattern is the neckline. I think it hits the sweet spot of not too low and not too high. This fabric suits the general volume and design ease of this pattern really well, I think. What I'm still not entirely sold on is the squareness of the shoulders, and the way the sleeve seam is dropped down the shoulder. Despite these small misgivings I'm sure, however, I'll get a TON of use from this tee. 

Free Pattern Friday: Onil Square Neck Blouse for Adults

Welcome to my monthly 'Free Pattern Friday' feature, where I road test a free sewing pattern or tutorial: sometimes a children's one, sometimes an adult's one. I try to publish these posts every first Friday of the month, timed to provide inspiration for those who plan to get their sew on over the weekend. I firmly believe that, if you pick your projects carefully, sewing doesn't have to be a crazy-expensive way to clothe yourself and your family. Thanks to all the amazing pattern designers who have offered up their hard work for us to enjoy for free.

You might have noticed that I've been reviewing a ton of underwear patterns lately, which is a reflection of my current sewing interests and wardrobe needs. But I know that won't be the same for everyone, so this month I've picked a non-underwear pattern to road test. In fact, it's what I would consider a 'proper pattern': not a quick basic that pattern companies often put out to gain interest but doesn't require them putting in a ton of development time. This pattern would be a great, fairly quick win for a confident sewer, and likely a satisfying challenge for a more beginner maker. 

Huge thanks to designer Pauline Alice for sharing the Onil Blouse pattern for free, which is easily accessible by adding it to the cart on their website. There are also some excellent blog posts on hacking this pattern to create different looks including an asymmetric button front, a dress with gathered skirt, lengthening the sleeves and an A-line dress with shorter sleeves. That is a lot of potential bang for your (zero) buck. It's also translated into Spanish, French and English. How cool is that?!

(image source: Pauline Alice)

Pattern type:

The Onil blouse pattern has a square neckline with elasticated sleeves above the elbow, and a curved hem. There are also bust darts for subtle shaping, which can, of course be adjusted if necessary to accommodate different bust sizes. As mentioned above, there are also tutorials on the blog to use this pattern to create different styles of garment. 

Sizing info:

This pattern, by current sewing pattern standards, is somewhat size inclusive but not quite as inclusive as many designers strive to be these days. It has been graded for busts measuring 31.5" - 47" (approx. EU 34 - 52). Helpfully, finished garment measurements are listed to guide you when selecting your size/s. My body measurements put me as a size 38 for my bust, and size 40 for my waist and hips. However, having checked the finished garment measurements, I decided not to grade out and make a straight size 38. More on how I found that below. 

Fabric info:

It is suggested that you use light to medium weight fabrics, such as cotton poplin, linen, viscose, chambray. I used a embroidered cotton voile from Fabric Godmother. They no longer have the white but it is available still in other colours, the closest being ecru. Because of the bulky embroidery, I used a scrap of white cotton lawn for the facing. 

As you can see, I decided to add some broderie anglais trim that my mum recently donated me, having had it her stash for probably around forty years! 

Findings:

As I say, this is a 'proper' pattern: well drafted and professional with good instructions. However, there was a couple of parts in the instructions that I felt could have been described in more detail to make this project more beginner friendly, particularly around the trimming of the neckline and facing. 

Because my fabric was pretty special, I decided to make a toile to check the sizing and fit before cutting into it. I found that the fit across the bust was fine, but the shape was way too dramatically A-line for my liking. I ended up removing 10cm in total from the width of the hem. I might have decided not to do that if my fabric was very drapey. I'd definitely recommend making a toile in a fabric with a similar behaviour to your final fabric choice as I don't think the line drawing on the website is very representative of the actual, finished garment. I also decided the finished length was a bit short, another reason to add the trim at the hem, to gain a tiny bit of extra length. 

Would I make this again?

Possibly, if the right piece of fabric came along. Speaking of fabric, in the size I made at least, I found I didn't need as much as was stated. Anyway, I'd definitely consider making a buttoned version of this blouse, and lengthen it so I can tuck it into trousers, jeans or skirts. 

Free Pattern Friday: The Worst/Best Vest Pattern for Women

Welcome to my monthly 'Free Pattern Friday' feature, where I road test a free sewing pattern or tutorial: sometimes a children's one, sometimes an adult's one. I try to publish these posts every first Friday of the month, timed to provide inspiration for those who plan to get their sew on over the weekend. I firmly believe that, if you pick your projects carefully, sewing doesn't have to be a crazy-expensive way to clothe yourself and your family. Thanks to all the amazing pattern designers who have offered up their hard work for us to enjoy for free.

So I'm describing this pattern as the worst vest/camisole/singlet pattern because in many ways it is. It's got a ridiculously limited size range, there's no proper size chart to speak of, and the instructions are poor. But it's the best because I wear one of these almost every single day of the year. I wear them as an additional layer basically October to June, and I wear them to sleep in during the summer months. Who created this dichotomy of a sewing pattern? ME! I drafted and released this free pattern back in 2012, before I even became a mum. And because shortly after I became a mum, I never found the time to improve it. But it's here if you want it! 

Pattern type:

As you can see, the SoZo Vest is a close fitting jersey vest/camisole/singlet that uses fold over elastic to finish the upper edges and form the straps. 

Sizing info:

I didn't feel very confident with grading when I drafted this pattern (to be honest I still don't) so I kept the size range small: roughtly UK sizes 8 - 16, which is US sizes 6 -14, Euro sizes 36 - 44. Obviously, time has moved on since 2012 and producing such a size-exclusive pattern isn't cool these days. So apologies to those who don't fit within this range. I hope that, if you wish to, you can use it as a basis from which to grade to the sizing you require. 

Because I didn't include a proper size chart, I'd recommend you lay the pattern over a close fitting jersey top to work out what size might be for you. If you can't decided between two sizes, cut the bigger of the two, stitch up the side seams and then try it on to see how it fits. 

Fabric info:

I'd recommend using a jersey that is blended with elastane/Lycra/spandex for stretch and comfort, like cotton/Lycra or bamboo/spandex etc. This is a great pattern for using up smaller amount of knits that you might have left over from previous projects. You can also use this pattern to make vests out of T-shirts, I wrote a post about that here, but you might need to size up if you're using a 100% cotton T-shirt due to the relative lack of stretch content. 

Findings:

I'm the first to admit that this pattern is very much lacking, particularly compared to the expectations we have of even basic sewing patterns these days. But the actual pattern, I feel, is pretty good: well drafted and easy to use, thanks in part to my lovely friend Claire who digitised it for me back in the day.

As I say, I find these garments incredibly useful. I'm wearing one now because of course I am. I like to have one in a light colour and a black one for wearing under various garments. They're great to wear under tops that otherwise might feel a bit revealing. 

Would I make this again?

Yes of course! I just did: the white one you see in these pictures. I have another black one I need to finish also as my previous black one is almost more hole than vest at this point.