Sunday, 10 April 2011

Knitwear Refashion #2

Ok, so maybe you remember just before MMMar '11 kicked off, I made an unnecessarily long explanation about why I was including knit and sweat refashions into my personal challenge rules. This was in contrast to my previous me-made/self-stitched challenges in which I pledged to (and succeeded in) only wearing stuff I'd made from scratch. You may also remember that for MMMar '11, I only got round to refashioning one piece of knitwear, the ubiquitous green cardi (which I am wearing right this second in fact, thus confirming its ubiquity!). Well, last week I finally got round to refashioning/remaking a second. Just in time for it to get really hot. Genial, no?!

Anyways, I'm pretty pleased with myself nonetheless. It's not like chilly windy weather isn't likely to return at any point. In fact, I would say that this garment IS pretty genius in that it is can be worn as it is when the weather's Spring or Autumn-like, but can accommodate either a vest underneath and/or cardi over the top when it's colder. I fear I may have made a practical garment here folks...

'But how did you make that garment, Zo', I hear you cry? Well, I started off with a large secondhand mens Marks and Spencer 100% wool jumper that had a distinctive moth hole and food stain embellishment on the front, and a secondhand womens stripey sleeveless knit top that had stretched and bobbled in a particularly unattractive manner. First I hand-stitched the mens jumper's moth hole up, and disected the garment along the side seams, neck seams and around the arm hole. I used a basic knitwear pattern (that I developed some time last year by cutting up and tracing off another secondhand womens jumper that I liked to fit of) and laid the pattern pieces for the front and back parts so the jumper's bottom ribbed edge would be encorporated into my remade garment, thus alleviating the need for me to worry about how to finish off the bottom edge. I made sure what had been the front of the mens jumper became the back of my reworked version, so if the food stain didn't come out in the wash, it was no biggie unless I got involved in a random back-inspection!

In a similar vein to the hem-ribbing scenerio, when I re-cut the sleeves, I simply moved my pattern so the cuffs would hit the 3/4 point on my new sleeves so I didn't need to fiddle with the sleeve hem either (are you catching my effort-saving drift here?). I didn't even cut and open up the original sleeves to recut them, I retained the sleeve hem as it was and cut them still folded in half. If the cuffs of the original jumper had been worn and/or saggy, I wouldn't have used this approach.

For the contrast shoulder yoke panels, I simply drew a nice shape on the pattern, traced that part off and made a little shoulder yoke pattern piece. I used this to cut away the shoulder part from the front body piece, reatining 0.5 cms seam allowance to attach the new pieces. The yoke pattern piece was then used to cut new shoulder yokes from the stripey jumper, equally adding 0.5 cms seam allowance to attached them to the body.

(sneaky inside peek)


Now I began construction. First I attached the new contrast should yokes to the main body using an overlocker (serger). I then attached the front and back pieces on ONE shoulder seam only. Next, I cut off the original neck band from the stripey sleeveless jumper (which was in good condition and would be longer than needed for my new neckhole) and while being careful not to stretch the out the currently-unfinished neckline, I measure the length of my new neckhole and cut the recycled neck band the same length minus 4 cms. (Making the neckband smaller than the neckhole stops the neckline becoming floppy and keeps its shape better.) I then overlocked this neckband to the neckhole, pinning them together at the beginning and end of the seam I was about to stitch and at strategic points along the two edges so that the ease would be spread evenly.

With the neckband in attached, the second should seam and side seams could be stitched up. Then the sleeves were stitched into the armholes (lots of pins at strategic points are advised, particularly at the underarm point and shoulder point!). I 'turned' all the loose threads, by which I mean I threaded all the loose ends, or tails, of overlocking threads that were hanging about back into the overlocking seam which traps them in and stops them unravelling.

This jumper took me half of one lunch break to cut out and half of the next day's lunch break to stitch together, such a pleasingly rapid creation. It is possible that I might receive the question: could I do this without an overlocker? To be honest, I wouldn't want to but I'm sure you could, but you'd have to take care that the edges didn't stretch whilst using your flat-lock machine to stitch the seams together, and I'd use a zigzag stitch. I mainly wouldn't want to because I'm lazy and I like the internal neatness an overlocker creates, but I certainly wouldn't want anyone to be put off from cut-and-sew knit creations such as this. If you've got one or two unwanted pieces of knitwear lying about or salvaged from a charity shop, if it doesn't work out, you've lost little and learnt some sewing lessons. Happy refashioning lovely peops!

Wednesday, 6 April 2011

An Interview With DIY Couture!

Today's blog post has been in the pipeline for a little while but today I am thrilled to be able to share it with you. I am incredibly lucky that the brains and creative talent behind DIY Couture, Rosie Martin, agreed to let me interview her.

Put briefly, DIY Couture wishes to demystify the often-confusing nature of sewing patterns and techincal garment making manuals which may be off-putting to those who would otherwise love to give making their own clothes a whirl. DIY Couture succeeds in this by producing and selling beautifully designed books with simple visual instructions which encourage the reader to begin creating garments that they will hopefully treasure.

Could you please briefly outline the history of DIY Couture? How did it come about?

The light bulb flash came when I bought a sewing pattern back in 2007 and opened it up to discover a practically impenetrable wall of coded language and strange indecipherable diagrams. I was practically flummoxed, but after some patient reading I realised they were trying to explain something very simple. At that point I was a fairly competent DIY seamstress, as I had been making and wearing my own clothes for about 8 years, though I had abandoned patterns a long time ago. People often asked me where I got my clothes and when I told them I made them they would often react something along the lines of “I wish I could do that.” I was always adamant that they certainly could do it! I did not have any special skill and I knew that many sewing projects were actually very simple. I really wanted to be able to show people just how easy it was to put good looking clothes together and so I thought using pictures would be the way to do it.

What are DIY Couture's aims and ethos?

As the name suggests, DIYcouture is about mashing up the ‘high’-end and the ‘low’-end of fashion. DIYcouture aims to help democratize personally tailored clothing, making unique garments accessible to anyone – so we no longer have to merely gaze at the catwalks as if they are a high end art exhibition. The books show people that self-sewn clothing does not have to have a ‘home-made’ look. DIYcouture aims to provide a real alternative to high-street fashion, to give people the choice to make rather than to buy. DIYcouture is all about making, which helps us all to be active rather than passive.

DIYcouture aims: -
  • To stimulate widespread enthusiasm for sewing in generations x, y and z.
  • To empower people to create for themselves to a high-standard, enabling them to opt out of buying into brand culture.
  • To enable people to access affordable clothing that has not been produced using sweatshop labour.
  • To build empathy with the thousands of invisible pairs of hands around the world that spend their time skilfully creating the clothes we wear.
  • To inspire people to slow down- to take the time to make a garment that is precious and long-lasting, rather than comfort-shop for disposable items which add to the worlds increasing piles of landfill.

I bought one of your books for a friend for Christmas. She is the kind of person who is bursting with creativity and the desire to make her own clothes, but who is put off by and scared of commercial sewing patterns. Would you say that is more or less typical of your customer?

I’m really not very good at that business practice that everyone says is so important – profiling my customer! The DIYcouture customer base is extremely diverse but I think on the whole this must be what unites them - a desire to sew but a lack of an easy route in, or a belief that it is something that requires special knowledge. Not only is sewing something that ANYONE can do, it is primarily a visual activity - it is basically joining big flat blocks of colour together to make something 3D - and therefore it should be explained visually. Sewing patterns are on the whole quite visually off-putting to the novice but a DIYcouture book is pretty easy on the eye - it is simple, colourful and spacious and you can see what it is explaining when you glance at it.

You say that you envision home sewing as an alternative to creating more need on sweatshop produced garments. Is ecological sustainability also a drive behind what you do?

Yes. Making a garment requires some planning and some patience - it meets none of the desires that seek satisfaction through ‘retail therapy.’ DIYcouture hopes in a small way to slow down the process of consumption, helping people to produce long-lasting garments that are precious, rather than disposable. Fashion implicitly retains its obsession with what is new and what is next. As time does pass, an obsession with the new inevitably creates the unfashionable, which becomes waste. DIYcouture hopes to help build a physical antithesis of fast-fashion. How did you learn to sew and what inspired you to start making your own clothes?

I studied 'textiles' at school just until I was 16 and my teacher there taught me to use a sewing machine. I always had very strong ideas about what I wanted to wear as a teenager - usually something pretty disgusting – and I would be unable to find it on the high street. I wanted to wear bright colours and strange as it sounds now these weren't always available on the high street. Sewing was a way of me being able to wear what I wanted, rather than what I could get.

Do you self-publish your books and are they available anywhere other than your website?

I have self-published the first three that are now available. These three are, I'm happy to say, available in a great many physical places. You can get them in Sheffield, Glasgow, Lowestoft, Bath, Bristol, Brighton, Frome, London and via the website of course (which offers international shipping). Book printing is very expensive (something that didn't fully strike home when I had all these plans) and those three are all I have been able to afford so far. I am now working on a mega book for Laurence King (an arts and fashion publisher in London) which will contain ten sets of DIYcouture instructions. I can't wait to see it in print. In the mean time I will be releasing e-books of the next three sets of DIYC instructions over the summer/autumn period.

If you have a friend who regularly murmurs that they wish they could sew their own clothes, but doesn't know where to start, I would heartily recommend getting them one (or several) of these books. Each book features one type of garment, but included inside are ideas and instructions on how to make various variations of that garment, which should spark the creative juices still further. Also included is some really helpful tips on what you might be looking for when you walk into a fabric shop. Even the most experienced of seamstresses can find themselves thrown off track when confronted with hundreds of rolls of different types of fabric. The instructions within help make sense of this confusing area. But the best thing about these books, in my opinion, is the sense of empowerment that they provide the reader. That by getting to grips with your desire to make your own clothes, you are actively responding to the issues of ecologically damaging manufacturing processes, sweatshop labour, waste and brand proliferation and domination.

I would like to thank Rosie Martin for taking the time to answer my almost endless stream of questions. I could have asked her so much more, but I keep an eye on her website and hope that she will inform me of any DIYC activities as they unfold! The whole concept as well as the products themselves really chime with how I am increasingly feeling about DIY and its place within our society, and I wish her every success in the future.

Sunday, 3 April 2011

Here's Some I Made Earlier...

I hope everyone is having a rocking weekend and those who participated in MMMar '11 are still feeling pleasure from not having to take a photo of your outfit every day! Remembering to take and upload those daily photos is for me, like everyone else who particpated/s from what I can tell, the most taxing part of these me-made/self-stitched challenges. There is also the concern that I am boring other partcipants and readers to tears with seeing the same garments that I wear again and again.

I have no problem with the garment repetition in the sense that it was an accurate reflection of what I was wearing. I see little point in offering a false images of myself in amazing unique daily looks if that's not how I really dress. The point of MMM's and SSS is to show that we can live our normal lives in clothing that we made ourselves. But of course it would be nice to offer as much inspiration as possible to other sewers through an exciting array of self-stitched/refashioned clothes. So, whilst I didn't get much time to sew for myself in MMMar' 11, I did make lots of clothes at work which are now on the website which I can offer for your delectation. I hope that they may give you an idea or two.

Denim halter dress:

For this dress I used a panelled strapless dress pattern. I cut the panels from the legs of donated unwanted jeans. I tried to pick jeans that were a similar tone, but I like the slight shade difference between them. I didn't bother with a facing on the top edge because I figured denim is ridgid enough so I bound the top edge with a scrap of contrast cherry print fabric instead.

High-waisted denim shorts:These shorts are made from donated denim, but I made a panelled version from unwanted jeans as well. Tracing off and splitting sewing patterns into panels means that you can often squeeze the pieces out of more awkward existing garments. The tabs on these shorts were a bit time consuming to construct but make an otherwise plain garment a bit more special. If you have a smaller garment you want to reuse or fabric scraps, using it to make contrast tabs, facings, collars etc. can be a nice way to use them up.

Remade shirt-blouse: For quite a while now I've been pretty obsessed with the 'Make Do and Mend' movement that existed in Britain in the Second World War, and specifically the ways the Government employed 'sewing experts' advised women to refashion old unwearable garments into new ones. Those information leaflets often proffered recutting large mens skirts into womens' blouses. I've chatted on about this before and probably will do again, so I won't go massively into this creation right now. In fact, if there's any interest I may do a 'How To' create a women's blouse from men's shirts. Nothing anybody couldn't figure out for themselves, but I know a couple of time saving techniques that might be of use.

Refashioned sweatshirt:FYI, this sweatshirt is probably in my top three of garments I've made at work. It's been cut from an unwanted men's hoodie using a very basic jumper pattern (you could use the ones in the Sew U: Home Stretch book, for example). I cut the front and back pieces with the ribbing still attached along the bottom so I didn't need to deal with making/applying something for the hem. The sleeves are 3/4 length to make the whole thing a bit more feminine and the cuffs are thick stretch jersey folded in half and overlocked (serged) to the bottom of the sleeve pieces. The neck hole is bound using the same contrast jersey fabric cut in a bias strip. I made some covered buttons (this is a lie now I think about it, my boss made them because I am rubbish at making covered buttons) from the same contrast to make it more interesting. This has been made from a hoodie so has the front pocket but of course you could use a normal sweatshirt for a cleaner look. Once again, if anyone is interested, I could do a 'How To' for this style.

Sweater dress:
This casual dress is made from two unwanted sweatshirts and one knit jumper, so not a very good ratio of new garments for old, but if they are going to go to waste otherwise, why not?! I can't remember quite how I developed this pattern, but you could figure out something similar, probably with the assistance of the Sew U: Home Stretch patterns again maybe. The knit jumper that I used was probably stained or moth eaten on the front (that's the general state of the garments we receive to work with), but the back panel was fine so I used that part. As with the sweatshirt above, here I kept the ribbing band of the sweatshirt intact to keep a neat finish.

I hope this post didn't come across as too 'Look! I made this!', I just feel that I am in a position to share some ideas that we've (my boss and I) spent a long time developing that I hope might encourage DIY activities. BTW, I'm LOVING the new(ish) Refashion Co-op blog. So many creative, genius and varied approaches going on over there...

Thursday, 31 March 2011

Me-Made-March '11: Days 27, 28, 29, 30 & 31!

Hi peops! Thanks for bearing with me throughout my latest me-made challenge. Final installment:

Day 27:

  • Me-made denim sailor trousers
  • Me-made Saint cardigan
  • Me-made leopard top
  • Me-made vest and pants
  • Me-made coat and bag

This was the day after craftaganza and I was sporting a sizeable me-made hangover. I did manage to make it out of my me-made pyjamas though and actually further than the sofa, so the celebratory bevvies couldn't have been too numerous!

Day 28:

  • Me-made Saint cardigan
  • Me-made wool dress
  • Me-made stripey T-shirt
  • Me-made vest and pants
  • Me-made coat and bag

Day 29:

  • Me-made denim sailor trousers
  • Remade/refashioned sweatshirt
  • Me-made vest and pants
  • Me-made coat and bag

I understand that not much of my outfit can be seen behind my work colleague Piglet there, so you'll just have to trust me. He's a big fan of attention, so I though he might appreciate a blog appearance.

Day 30:

  • Me-made black sailor trousers
  • Me-made leopard top
  • Me-made vest and pants
  • Me-made coat and bag

As previously explained, I cannot take credit for the gorgeous neck scarf, which was created by the lovely and talented Jessica. Mad props to her for keeping my neck warm all day! I seriously nearly forgot to take it off to go to bed.

Day 31:

  • Me-made black sailor trousers
  • Me-made corazones blouse
  • Refashioned cardigan
  • Me-made vest and pants
  • Me-made coat and bag

So there we have it people, all done! Another whole month rocking the me-mades in an attempt to spread the word that handmade clothing and accessories can and should be worn with pride. I've stated my intentions and reasoning for these challenges on many occassions, but I have to say that I am proud and very grateful that once again peops from all over the globe elected through their own free will to join me. I also want to thank everyone who commented and gave my outfits props. The encouragement and support was gratefully received.

So, in summary: No, I didn't make any new trousers, and; No, I didn't refashion as many sweat or knit items as I'd planned, and; No, I didn't get round to making any more day-friendly dresses. But that's ok. The fact that I got by with what I have once again shows me that I don't actually need all the clothes I would like to make, and that a few comfy separates can go along way with a little creative combining. I certainly had more outfit variety than Me-Made-March 2010, and this year I was living in a much colder climate with a mountain of other things (moving flats, craft market organising, working full-time etc.) on my plate that weren't applicable to a year ago. Of course, the shine of novelty has worn off a bit more, what with this being my forth challenge of this ilk. But the creativity and variety shown and support expressed by the other participants largely via the Flickr group continues to make these challenges such a thoroughly enjoyable experience, and this MMMar '11 has been no exception.

Future challenges?! Watch this space, announcements to follow soon.....

Wednesday, 30 March 2011

The first Brighton Craftaganza. Papped.

All the way back in January, I disclosed an on-going project I had been working on which came in the shape of a craft market named Brighton Craftaganza. Six months of planning and organising finally came to fruitition this Saturday when the first Craftaganza event was held at a deconsecrated church/turned art gallery called Fabrica in Brighton, UK.

Personally, I have never organised anything on this scale before. I've had stalls at various handmade markets and craft fairs before, but I didn't have any idea what it would entail to actually sort one out from scratch. The day itself was totally awesome, and I enjoyed it so much. I really want to share with y'all, my lovely blog readers, some of my favourite images and bits from the day.

We started the day at about 8am with a bare, chilly hall and a massive pile of trestle tables. Lisa, Steph and myself had some wonderful helpers which came in the form of our partners (including the illustrious Patty, of course, who was also Official Photographer for the day) and two lovely volunteers, Laura and Rehannon. I can't thank these people enough, especially Laura and Rehannon who were so sweet and funny, they both even came along with homemade cakes! Got to love that.

We decorated the hall with balloons and bunting (nearly 40 metres may I add, made by my own fair hands from fabric scraps I got from work) and the potentially dreary church hall looked Spring-like and beautiful. It's such an awesome space, insanely high ceiling with sun light streaming down (if the sun chooses to shead some that day).

All the sellers, of which there were about thirty one, including three food stalls, dribbled in over the next couple of hours and set up their wares. Then all of a sudden, BLAM!, it was 11am and time for the doors to open. I shared a stall with this lovely lady....

My good friend, the amazingly talented Michelle from Naught Little Pony! I had some skirts and bags on sale, and Michelle had an incredible array of brooches, necklaces, cushions and more. It was so nice to spend time with her, as well as meeting and chatting with almost all the other sellers (the ones in our stall's vacinity at least).

I didn't get as 'spendy' as I could easily have done (I left that to Lisa, who seemed to be on a mission to by something from each stall!), but Patty and I did get an incredible print and some greetings cards. When choosing which sellers' applications to accept, Lisa, Steph and I really tried to reach for a wide variety of products with a decent level of quality and a range of approaches to make this market as inclusive as possible. I think we managed that well, there were so many really individual and unique products that even the least craft-friendly shopper would have been hard pushed not to find anything that appealed to them.

Look! It looks like a real craft market doesn't it?!


Meeting the other stalls holders was a total high point, as well as chatting with some of the steady flow of punters and visitors who came through our doors. A special shout-out goes to a lovely lady called Jenny (I think it was Jenny, I'm so bad with names, sorry!) from Rustington who introduced herself and told me she reads my blog! Email me and we'll go for a bevvie!

It was hard to tell from behind the stall, and because I spent most of the day involved in conversation and sausage rolls, but the whole thing seemed to go smoothly and be well attended. Some stall holders (including myself) didn't make as much cash as others, but so far the feedback from all the stall holders has been really positive.

Steph, Lisa and myself (pictured above) were actually pretty sad when the day came to a close. We've now got quite a lot of analysising, thinking and discussing to do to figure out the next step for this formidable trio and the Brighton Craftaganza 'brand'. We definately want to organise more markets but we have other exciting ideas in the pipe line too. Watch this space.... (or this space!)

Tuesday, 29 March 2011

Me-Made-March '11: Days 22, 23, 24, 25 & 26

I just got myself in a total pickle trying to get my photos in the correct order and realising I'd missed a day out. Now that wouldn't have happened if I'd been keeping up to date with my documentation of this challenge, would it?! Only a couple more installments now, can't believe this month has flown by so quickly.

Day 22:

  • Me-made denim sailor trousers
  • Me-made ruffle front jumper
  • Me-made vest and pants
  • Me-made coat and bag

This is probably my most comfortable me-made outfit (aside from my pyjamas). This jumper has actually held up pretty well considering it was made over a year ago and has received many wears and washes since. I must give props to whatever random synthetic fibres the fabric is made from!

Day 23:

  • Me-made black Jenny skirt
  • Me-made stripey T-shirt
  • Refashioned cardigan
  • Me-made vest and pants
  • Me-made coat and bag

Initially meant for evening/going out purposes, last Autumn I ended up rocking this skirt regularly in the day time too. It simultaneously makes me feel nice and curvy and annoyed at all the fabric round my middle!

Day 24:

  • Me-made black sailor trousers
  • Me-made Saint cardigan
  • Remade blouse
  • Me-made vest and pants
  • Me-made coat and bag
It was totally not the right weather for wearing this blouse, which is made from the type of synthetic fabric that always makes you feel cold. Great for when I lived in Spain. Now? Not so much!

Day 25:
  • Me-made denim sailor trousers
  • Me-made Simplicity 3835 top (the first of the millions I've made)
  • Me-made Saint cardigan (not shown, so don't think your eyes are going funny!)
  • Me-made vest and pants
  • Me-made coat and bag

Rubbish outfit born from a desire for variety. I made this top ages ago when I was first getting back into sewing clothes. I made it from quilting cotton (school girl error) plus the original sleev pattern was always a bit too tight for my chunky upperarms, so it's never been that comfortable if you need to move your arms a lot. It's even more restrictive when paired with my Saint cardigan. At work I need to move my arms A LOT, cutting out garments and the like. I'm a genius.

Day 26:

  • Me-made Macaron dress
  • Refashioned cardigan
  • Me-made vest and pants
  • Me-made coat and bag

Brighton Craftaganza day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The crap behind me is all the stuff for my stall. It was a rocking day and this outfit took me through the whole day: from 8am through the whole market, and out the other side into evening to imbibe some well -deserved congratulatory cocktails. More on Craftaganza tomorrow.....

Friday, 25 March 2011

Me-Made-March '11: Days 18, 19, 20 & 21

The tinternet is back on! It's quite glaringly obvious how much of life and communication is conducted through it when it is taken away from you for a while. Let's not dwell on that right now, I've got some catching up to do...

Day 18:

  • me-made denim sailor trousers
  • me-made stripey long sleeved T-shirt
  • me-made vest and pants
  • refashioned cardigan
  • me-made coat and bag
A cosy, if predictable, get-up I'd say.

Day 19:

  • me-made denim sailor trousers
  • me-made black stretch top
  • refashioned cardigan
  • me-made vest and pants
  • me-made coat and bag

Day 20:

  • me-made faux vintage dress
  • me-made vest and pants
  • me-made Saint cardigan (when I went outside)
  • me-made coat and bag

I actually wore my leopard coat instead of my navy wool one for a change, but regretted it as soon as I stepped outside! This was a ridiculously optimistic outfit considering it was a lovely sunny day but actually still pretty nippy. Which is why I changed as soon as I got home into this:

  • me-made black sailor trousers
  • me-made black stretch top
  • me-made Saint cardigan
  • me-made vest and pants

Wearing all black reminds me of when I used to help out back stage at my school's drama productions!

Day 21:

  • me-made black sailor trousers
  • me-made stripey T-shirt
  • refashioned cardigan
  • me-made vest and pants
  • me-made coat and bag

According to my boyfriend, my wide legged trousers make me look short. This photo is evidence to suggest he's right. I'm over it.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...