Free Pattern Friday: Onil Square Neck Blouse for Adults

Welcome to my monthly 'Free Pattern Friday' feature, where I road test a free sewing pattern or tutorial: sometimes a children's one, sometimes an adult's one. I try to publish these posts every first Friday of the month, timed to provide inspiration for those who plan to get their sew on over the weekend. I firmly believe that, if you pick your projects carefully, sewing doesn't have to be a crazy-expensive way to clothe yourself and your family. Thanks to all the amazing pattern designers who have offered up their hard work for us to enjoy for free.

You might have noticed that I've been reviewing a ton of underwear patterns lately, which is a reflection of my current sewing interests and wardrobe needs. But I know that won't be the same for everyone, so this month I've picked a non-underwear pattern to road test. In fact, it's what I would consider a 'proper pattern': not a quick basic that pattern companies often put out to gain interest but doesn't require them putting in a ton of development time. This pattern would be a great, fairly quick win for a confident sewer, and likely a satisfying challenge for a more beginner maker. 

Huge thanks to designer Pauline Alice for sharing the Onil Blouse pattern for free, which is easily accessible by adding it to the cart on their website. There are also some excellent blog posts on hacking this pattern to create different looks including an asymmetric button front, a dress with gathered skirt, lengthening the sleeves and an A-line dress with shorter sleeves. That is a lot of potential bang for your (zero) buck. It's also translated into Spanish, French and English. How cool is that?!

(image source: Pauline Alice)

Pattern type:

The Onil blouse pattern has a square neckline with elasticated sleeves above the elbow, and a curved hem. There are also bust darts for subtle shaping, which can, of course be adjusted if necessary to accommodate different bust sizes. As mentioned above, there are also tutorials on the blog to use this pattern to create different styles of garment. 

Sizing info:

This pattern, by current sewing pattern standards, is somewhat size inclusive but not quite as inclusive as many designers strive to be these days. It has been graded for busts measuring 31.5" - 47" (approx. EU 34 - 52). Helpfully, finished garment measurements are listed to guide you when selecting your size/s. My body measurements put me as a size 38 for my bust, and size 40 for my waist and hips. However, having checked the finished garment measurements, I decided not to grade out and make a straight size 38. More on how I found that below. 

Fabric info:

It is suggested that you use light to medium weight fabrics, such as cotton poplin, linen, viscose, chambray. I used a embroidered cotton voile from Fabric Godmother. They no longer have the white but it is available still in other colours, the closest being ecru. Because of the bulky embroidery, I used a scrap of white cotton lawn for the facing. 

As you can see, I decided to add some broderie anglais trim that my mum recently donated me, having had it her stash for probably around forty years! 

Findings:

As I say, this is a 'proper' pattern: well drafted and professional with good instructions. However, there was a couple of parts in the instructions that I felt could have been described in more detail to make this project more beginner friendly, particularly around the trimming of the neckline and facing. 

Because my fabric was pretty special, I decided to make a toile to check the sizing and fit before cutting into it. I found that the fit across the bust was fine, but the shape was way too dramatically A-line for my liking. I ended up removing 10cm in total from the width of the hem. I might have decided not to do that if my fabric was very drapey. I'd definitely recommend making a toile in a fabric with a similar behaviour to your final fabric choice as I don't think the line drawing on the website is very representative of the actual, finished garment. I also decided the finished length was a bit short, another reason to add the trim at the hem, to gain a tiny bit of extra length. 

Would I make this again?

Possibly, if the right piece of fabric came along. Speaking of fabric, in the size I made at least, I found I didn't need as much as was stated. Anyway, I'd definitely consider making a buttoned version of this blouse, and lengthen it so I can tuck it into trousers, jeans or skirts. 

Free Pattern Friday: The Worst/Best Vest Pattern for Women

Welcome to my monthly 'Free Pattern Friday' feature, where I road test a free sewing pattern or tutorial: sometimes a children's one, sometimes an adult's one. I try to publish these posts every first Friday of the month, timed to provide inspiration for those who plan to get their sew on over the weekend. I firmly believe that, if you pick your projects carefully, sewing doesn't have to be a crazy-expensive way to clothe yourself and your family. Thanks to all the amazing pattern designers who have offered up their hard work for us to enjoy for free.

So I'm describing this pattern as the worst vest/camisole/singlet pattern because in many ways it is. It's got a ridiculously limited size range, there's no proper size chart to speak of, and the instructions are poor. But it's the best because I wear one of these almost every single day of the year. I wear them as an additional layer basically October to June, and I wear them to sleep in during the summer months. Who created this dichotomy of a sewing pattern? ME! I drafted and released this free pattern back in 2012, before I even became a mum. And because shortly after I became a mum, I never found the time to improve it. But it's here if you want it! 

Pattern type:

As you can see, the SoZo Vest is a close fitting jersey vest/camisole/singlet that uses fold over elastic to finish the upper edges and form the straps. 

Sizing info:

I didn't feel very confident with grading when I drafted this pattern (to be honest I still don't) so I kept the size range small: roughtly UK sizes 8 - 16, which is US sizes 6 -14, Euro sizes 36 - 44. Obviously, time has moved on since 2012 and producing such a size-exclusive pattern isn't cool these days. So apologies to those who don't fit within this range. I hope that, if you wish to, you can use it as a basis from which to grade to the sizing you require. 

Because I didn't include a proper size chart, I'd recommend you lay the pattern over a close fitting jersey top to work out what size might be for you. If you can't decided between two sizes, cut the bigger of the two, stitch up the side seams and then try it on to see how it fits. 

Fabric info:

I'd recommend using a jersey that is blended with elastane/Lycra/spandex for stretch and comfort, like cotton/Lycra or bamboo/spandex etc. This is a great pattern for using up smaller amount of knits that you might have left over from previous projects. You can also use this pattern to make vests out of T-shirts, I wrote a post about that here, but you might need to size up if you're using a 100% cotton T-shirt due to the relative lack of stretch content. 

Findings:

I'm the first to admit that this pattern is very much lacking, particularly compared to the expectations we have of even basic sewing patterns these days. But the actual pattern, I feel, is pretty good: well drafted and easy to use, thanks in part to my lovely friend Claire who digitised it for me back in the day.

As I say, I find these garments incredibly useful. I'm wearing one now because of course I am. I like to have one in a light colour and a black one for wearing under various garments. They're great to wear under tops that otherwise might feel a bit revealing. 

Would I make this again?

Yes of course! I just did: the white one you see in these pictures. I have another black one I need to finish also as my previous black one is almost more hole than vest at this point.