Free Pattern Friday: Women's Peplum Top

Welcome to my monthly 'Free Pattern Friday' feature, where I road test a free sewing pattern or tutorial: sometimes a children's one, sometimes a women's one. I publish these posts every first Friday of the month, timed to provide inspiration for those who plan to get their sew on over the weekend. I firmly believe that, if you pick your projects carefully, sewing doesn't have to be a crazy-expensive way to clothe yourself and your family. Thanks to all the amazing pattern designers who have offered up their hard work for us to enjoy for free.

I may be wrong, but I think a near-global lockdown with many people staying in their homes for weeks (months?) on end is exactly the right time for some free sewing pattern inspiration. It's possible that you, like me, have had your income effected by the corona virus, so in these financially uncertain times you may be looking for some free resources to keep you sewing. You are probably already well aware of the amazing array of free sewing patterns available for download on the Peppermint magazine website. But what are the patterns actually like to use? Previously I reviewed their Boxy top pattern, and now I've come back for more and have tried out their popular Peplum top pattern, created by In The Folds designer, Emily. Massive thanks to Peppermint magazine and the designers who collaborate with them to make so many wonderful free patterns available to the sewing community. Oh, and to help them stay afloat during this international crisis, they have added a little donate link on their pattern page so you can flow them a couple of quid. I did and I suggest you do too if you can. 

(image source: Peppermint mag)

Pattern type:

This is a simple little summer top with gathered peplum, rounded neckline that goes into a V shape at the back. The shoulders are formed from separate panels. Please note: I altered the pattern by lengthening both the bodice and peplum (each by 2cm), so my version is not exactly true to the original pattern. 

Sizing info:

The pattern has been sized from A-K, which translates to bust measurements 30" to 51½". I often fall between sizes so I opted for the smaller based on the finished garment measurements, and I'm happy with the fit as I didn't want to be swimming in it. 

Fabric info:

It is suggested that you use lightweight woven fabrics for this pattern, and I'd really advise against anything too stiff or with too much body. Although the sample on the website has been made in linen, I'd be careful to avoid anything that made the peplum stick out too much. For my version, I harvested the fabric from a vintage viscose dress (see above) that's been in my stash for at least seven years. I'm guessing by the small shoulder pads that it was made in the 1990s, and I've always loved the 1940's-esque print. 

It's amazing how much fabric even a small top project will need, and I had to disregard a number of existing seam lines when cutting out the peplum pieces. Thankfully the busy print and gathering hides them well. I'm really happy with how the viscose works with this style. It's not too slippery so it wasn't a total headache to sew, but the slinkiness feels nice to wear and doesn't allow the peplum to poof out too much.  

Findings:

This pattern was a real pleasure with work with. Both the pattern itself and instructions were clear and user friendly. As for the finished garment, well I'm not entirely sold on it for myself. If I had to describe this garment in one word, I'd say it's 'flirty', however my daughter announced it looked like a little girl's dress (!), and I can kind of see what she means.

The main front and back pieces are really quite A-line, so the lower edge of the top section is pretty wide even before the peplum is attached. When I added the additional 2cm to the top section, I made sure to slash and insert 2cm across the width of the pattern pieces about half way down, not just to add the 2cm at the hem because I didn't want to make the lower edge even wider. But generally, I'm not sure the extra fullness around my waist is doing me many favours. 

Plus I am not a fan of the separate shoulder sections, I can't figure out what the point of them is, it kind of feels like design for design's sack. I do, however, love love love the neckline. The scoop at the front and V at the back are perfectly proportioned, IMO. Overall, it does feel really fun and swishy to wear, so I'll give it a couple of wears during actual summer, and who knows, I may fully fall in love with it.

Customisation ideas:

To be honest, I've not got much for you with this one. 

• Alter the pattern pieces to eliminate the separate shoulder pieces, making a regular shoulder seam instead.
• Extend the peplum pieces to make this into a dress.
• Extend the peplum pieces AND add an additional tear for a different dress style. 
• Add a small ruffle/frill into the arm hole over the shoulders. 

Would I make it again?:

Hmm. I probably wouldn't make this pattern again exactly as it is, I'm just not sure how many of this style of top my wardrobe really needs. I am tempted to incorporate this neckline into other garment projects though.