My Sewing Library: Part 3

Today's post is the final in my little series of sewing-related book reviews. If you didn't see the other two and are interested, Part 1 is here and Part 2 is here.



The Great British Sewing Bee: Sew Your Own Wardrobe by Tessa Evelegh

What is it and who is it aimed at?

I wrote a fuller review of this hard-back title back in March, but in short this book is aimed at everyone aside from the super-super-skilled seamster by guiding them through a multitude of garment sewing projects. It is very detailed and I'd be surprised if most people who like sewing couldn't find something to interest them and help improve their skills in this book.

Why have I got it?

I was offered a copy to review, and like a good girl I actually did write my honest and unbiased review within a reasonable time frame of receiving it. 

Does it include patterns?

Hell yes it includes patterns. Squillions of them, for women, men and children. So many that I'm not exactly sure how many, and I don't have the book with me at the moment to count them. As I mentioned in my full review of this book, it'd be unlikely that you couldn't find at least one of the patterns worth a bash. I'd recommend doing some internet research before you embark on making any of them though, as I've read a few people's comments stating they found flaws in the sizing or fit this or that pattern from this book. 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

Nup, I haven't used it. I really should give it some attention one of these days because I'm sure I could learn a thing or two from it, but I must admit that none of the patterns appeal to me that much so I haven't scrabbled to make anything from it. It does look a thorough and detailed tome though. So if you are just getting into sewing and looking for a book to really get your teeth into, this could be a really good buy. Plus with sooo many patterns included, if you like a lot of them, it could work out great value for those alone.



Fit for Real People: Sew Great Clothes Using ANY Sewing Pattern

by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This paper-back is all about creating well-fitting clothing by tissue-fitting your pattern and making any necessary alterations before cutting into your fabric. It is only concerned with this method of fitting, but covers pretty much every figure 'quirk' you can think of. So unless your proportions miraculously match those of the Big-Four pattern companies, you're likely to find at least a small part of it useful. It also includes quite a bit of history into sewing patterns, sizing and more, so if you are sewing geek on any level, you're likely to find it interesting.

Why have I got it?

I bought it with my hard-earned pennies because I know very little about the fitting stage of sewing clothes, aside from blending between sizes and pinching excess out of the side seams.  

Does it include patterns?

No, but it will help you look at all sewing patterns with a renewed sense of potential!

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

I must admit that I owned this book for an embarrassingly long time before even opening it up. However, one of my sewing aims for 2015 is to make well-fitting garments. Since my opportunities for sewing have diminished, I'm aiming for quality rather than quantity when it comes to making myself garments. So I've cracked this book out and am currently reading it more or less from cover to cover. I'm skim-reading the parts that really don't relate to me, but still absorbing information from those sections to have a better understanding of fit in general.

But hot damn this is an ugly book! Aside from the fact that all the garments that are being made look like something worn by audience members from early episodes of Oprah, the quality of photography is not great and there's a weird mix of styles when illustration is deployed. I'd actually prefer it if this book was almost entirely illustrated, I think the techniques would be easier to decipher.

But it's not just the clothing styles and book production that looks dated, it also shows how much our funny old pastime has changed in recent years by the fact that this book deals exclusively with the Big Four pattern companies' products. With the blossoming of independent sewing pattern availability, which are often available as PDFs or in different grades of paper, I wonder how relevant the tissue-fitting method this book exclusively deals with will be going forwards. That said, these authors are incredibly knowledgeable and experienced, and anyone who takes sewing their own clothes seriously should probably own or borrow this book at some point as it includes so much useful info on how to alter patterns to correct figure 'quirks'. 



Love at First Stitch: Demystifying Dressmaking by Tilly Walnes

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This sizeable paper-back is another that I have previously reviewed more fully, however, in-brief: it is aimed at beginner and 'lower-intermediate' (if such a thing exists, although generally I hate categorising people who enjoy sewing in this way) sewers, but really anyone who appreciates a friendly, technical-jargon-free approach and a beautifully designed book. I feel that this book has probably permanently altered what many of us will come to expect from a sewing book, in terms of both the stylishness of the projects and the design of the book itself. 

Why have I got it?

I was luck enough to be sent a copy by the publishers to review on my blog. 

  

Does it include patterns?

Indeed it does! And if you are into Tilly's aesthetic, then it's wonderful to have a collection of cute and wearable patterns to bust out with crystal clear instructions and photos to hold your hand through the construction. Like all good sewing books that include patterns, the projects start at a relatively easy level and get progressively more challenging as your skills and confidence improve.   

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

I have very much enjoyed reading chunks of it before bed and stroking the beautiful pages! I will definitely be deploying the Margot pyjama bottoms and Mimi blouse patterns before 2015 is out. The others are sweet styles but either not my aesthetic or not suitable for my current lifestyle. If cocktails begin to feature more frequently in my life again, the Lilou may happen too at some stage! 

The author, Tilly, is my friend and effectively my boss since I teach workshops at her studio space. But I hope you trust that I'm not being biased when I say that if you dig the look of the clothes in this book, you'd be crazy not to put 'Love at First Stitch' on your birthday wish-list. 

So if you made it to the end of these review posts, thank you for taking the time to read them! I'll be reviewing more books in the near-ish future as I received Gertie's latest book for Christmas and was sent a lingerie sewing book at the end of the year that I haven't had a chance to look at yet. If you have any other sewing-related books that I haven't written about but would recommend, please leave a comment...

My Sewing Library: Part 2

Thanks so much to those who commented for the positive response to Part 1 of this little book review feature. It's great to hear that it's helped and inspired those who were looking to expand their sewing resources. So, onward...

Metric Pattern Cutting by Winifred Aldrich

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This hard-back book is all about pattern cutting, and literally nothing else. Whether you're a fashion student or a home-seamster wanting a deeper knowledge on the anatomy of a garment pattern, this is widely accepted to be the very best place to start. Aldrich takes you through drafting basic pattern blocks from scratch based on specific measurements, as well as how to adapt those blocks and how to draft pretty much every type of design feature (like sleeves, collars, cuffs etc) known to man. If you're willing to put the time in, this book gives you the building blocks to make your clothing designs a reality. However, as cute as the little illustrations are, a pretty coffee-table book this is NOT! 

Why have I got it?

This book was on the reading list to buy when I started my Fashion Design degree back in 1999! Yup, I was at uni in the 90's, *feels seriously old*! This wasn't the only pattern cutting title I bought that was on that list, but it's the only one I still own, which I feel says a lot. 

Does it include patterns?

No, but it does contain the very DNA of patterns! This book will make you the mother of patterns. Which is kind of better than including patterns, don't you think?

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

So freaking much: that's how much I've used it. I've used it to draft blocks, I've used it to figure out how to make a puff sleeve, I've used it to grade patterns into different sizes, I've used it to balance my plate on whilst I eat dinner... If pattern cutting interests you at all, then it simply must be owned. 

Built By Wendy Dresses by Wendy Mullin and Eviana Hartman

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This book is very much in the vein of Wendy Mullin's two SEW U books, however it manages to avoid repeating the content of those others. Focusing on dresses made from woven fabric, this book assumes you know the basics of how to sew and instead helps you explore your hidden designer. It covers topics like picking a garment style to flatter your body shape, how to apply print and colour to good effect and different neckline options, as well as sections you'd expect from a sewing book like picking suitable fabric types. 

Why have I got it?

After buying and loving her first two books, I flipped out with excitement when I found Mullin had written another. Then I bought it. 

Does it include patterns?

YES!!! Like the other two, this includes three multi-sized garment patterns. The three dress patterns have interesting features that makes them ripe for customisation. Inside the book are detailed instructions on how to adapt those three basics to make twenty five different styles, plus it would only take the application of a little bit of imagination to come up with quite a few more by applying her lessons in design that feature towards the beginning of the book. 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

To be honest, no I haven't used it save for reading bits of it here and there. By the time I bought this book, I had become pretty obsessed with sewing from vintage patterns to create a rockabilly-esque style. The aesthetic of the garment styles in this book are really cute, but didn't gel with me at that time particularly, and are possibly a bit young for someone in their thirties I felt. 

However, having gone back to it recently to refresh my memory for this post, I do feel it has a lot to offer. I'm actually interested in giving a least one of the patterns a whirl, and I may make that a priority early 2015. 

Sew Over It: Sew it, Wear It, Love It by Lisa Comfort

What is it and who is it aimed at?

For a slightly longer review of this book, check out this previous blog post. In short, this book is aimed at beginners with a creative bent who appreciate a feminine, retro-y style. With lots of ideas for customising and up-cycling projects as well as very basic dressmaking projects, this little hard-back written by my former boss shows how to make a great impact in just an afternoon. 

Why have I got it?

I was given a free copy at the launch party. 

Does it include patterns?

Nup. The closest this book gets to patterns is showing you how to draft very basic elasticated or gathered waist skirts using your measurements. 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

I haven't used it but then I didn't expect to because I'm not really its target readership. No doubt there are some things in here I could learn, but there are other books that appeal to me more aesthetically, both in terms of the projects and overall design of the publication. So I'm more likely to choose those when perusing my collection looking for some bedtime reading. That said, if you have a girly friend who wants to get into sewing, this would make a lovely gift. 

My Sewing Library: Part 1

I don't have the biggest collection of sewing related books, compared to some people, but I was surprised to find that they do fit in a whole shelf of our book cases after a recent tidy-up. I thought it'd be fun to do a series of mini-reviews in three parts in case anyone was thinking of expanding their own collection and wanted some ideas. So, in absolutely no order at all...

SEW U: Home Stretch by Wendy Mullen and Eviana Hartman

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This book is an introduction to sewing with knit fabrics. It assumes you have a bit of sewing knowledge under your belt already (perhaps hoping you've used the first Sew U book, which I used to have and is excellent, but I've lost and therefore won't be reviewing here). 

It is a hard-back spiral bound book with wonderfully clear advice and illustrations. It holds your hand and guides you through everything you'll need to know to start sewing with all manner of different knits, whether you own a fancy overstitch machine, an overlocker/serger or just a regular good old sewing machine. 

Why have I got it?

I used to be a huge fan of the Built by Wendy clothing brand. Around the time I moved to Spain, Wendy Mullen's aesthetic really resonated with me and I found the BBW website very inspirational. I never owned any BBW garments, because by then I was more interested in making my own (and too skint) but I adored the pattern range she made with Simplicity. As I say, I used to own the first SEW U book and really liked the format. I can't remember exactly but I must have seen the knits version on a blog somewhere and bought it for myself. 

Does it include patterns?

Damn straight it does. I includes three multi-sized patterns and the book shows you how to make many more style variations by using them as a starting point and making tweaks. 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

Yes, I used it soooo much when I got into sewing with knits. I think I bought it at exactly the right time for me: I'd already had a year or two of intense woven garment sewing under my belt, and really wanted to crack using knits as I longed to make a truly wearable day-to-day wardrobe. This book is about 7 years old now but the patterns included are such classic shapes that I can't imagine it feeling dated for many years yet. I would most definitely recommend it to anyone who is about to embark on sewing with knits, or has recently started using them but still has some questions. 

Design-It-Yourself Clothes: Patternmaking Simplified by Cal Patch

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This paper-back is a gentle introduction to pattern drafting from scratch for those who find most of the usual pattern drafting/cutting tomes a bit dry. The benefit of this book over those others is that the patterns you'll create are meant to look more like garments you'd like to wear than many of the more traditional styles the regular pattern books show. 

Why have I got it?

I bought it about five years ago but I can't remember why. I've never been massively into drafting patterns from scratch so I don't know why I chose this one. I think the clean lines of the cute garment styles appealed, as did they lovely photography. 

Does it include patterns?

No but it does include step by step instructions on how to make your own using your own specific body measurements. Theoretically, because they will be based on your own vital stats, the outcome should be better fitting straight off than a pre-made pattern based on 'standard' sizing. Once the basic patterns have been drafted, the book then goes into how you can make changes to them for a pretty wide variety of garment styles. 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

No I haven't used it, although I did take inspiration from that cream blouse/jacket pictured below to form the basis of my Saint cardigan (RIP). I wouldn't say that there's anything wrong with this book at all, I just figured out pretty quickly that I prefer using ready made patterns, perhaps making tweaks or adapting them, but that I didn't have the patience to draft my own from scratch. 

As I haven't really used it I'm not sure I'd be able to recommend it or not. I guess it would be a good buy if the style of the garments in the book are similar to what you usually make/wear already. 

The BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook by Nora Abousteit and Alison Kelly

What is it and who is it aimed at?

Designed very much in the image of the SEW U books, IMO, this hard-back spiral bound book is the first developed by the crew that brought us the BurdaStyle sewing community. It attempts to span all levels of sewing experience, at one end explaining how to thread a sewing machine, and at the other showing possible ideas on how to alter a coat pattern and then make it. I guess it's aimed at the vast number of members of the BurdaStyle sewing community, of which I used to be one. 

Why have I got it?

The best bit about this book, I feel, is that it taps into a vast array of home-sewer creative talent. When they were producing this book, they asked lots of members of BurdaStyle to design variations of the patterns, and then got them to make those variations which were pictured inside. I was asked to design a variation of the blouse, which is the pale pink one pictured in the centre right in the picture below (BTW, I did NOT choose the fabric or colour!). Everyone who took part got a copy of the book sent to them for free.  

Does it include patterns?

Indeed. There's a skirt, blouse, dress, coat and bag. The garment patterns are multi-sized. For each of the patterns there are instructions on how to make it straight-up, plus two other variations explained in detail, plus lots of little images of pattern-hack ideas (like mine). 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

To be honest, no, I haven't used it aside from to flick through, I therefore can't comment on how the patterns come together or on the construction or pattern hacking directions. I will say that the reason I didn't use it is that none of the patterns appealed to me. I quite liked some of the variations of the original patterns as designed by the community members, but as you may have guessed by my previous comments, I'd rather be sewing than pattern cutting. Sewing patterns aren't a scarcity round my house, so I'm just not going to tackle a pattern that I don't really like if I've got to do anything to it. 

Gertie's New Book For Better Sewing by Gretchen Hirsch

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This chunky hard-back spiral bound sewing book is definitely one for the vintage/retro lovers, and probably Gertie lovers, out there. It doesn't go into super-beginner stuff like how to thread a sewing machine, but it does give lots of info on stuff like fabric choice, pressing tools, buttonholes etc. Normally I'd ignore stuff like that and get straight to the pattern-joy, but this book goes into impressive detail so I think it'd still be very useful for more experienced sewers looking to expand their knowledge. 

Why have I got it?

I got a free copy to review, but I must admit that I never got round to it (naughty Zo). My intention was to make one of the garment patterns from the book and review it at the same time as commenting on my experience of sewing the pattern. Then within weeks of receiving my copy, I discovered I was preggers so with a body about to change in all sorts of ways, I held off and it just never happened. 

Does it include patterns?

I think I already spoilt the answer to this in my previous response. Yes! It has a pencil skirt, portrait blouse, sheath dress, scallop waist full skirt, bow-tie blouse, sweetheart sundress (my favourite), wiggle dress, shirtwaist dress, suit jacket and coat dress PLUS a few variation ideas you can make with each of the original patterns. PHEW! That lady must have been busy. 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

I have used it in that I've enjoyed reading chunks of it. Gertie really has put soooo much effort into this book. There are heaps of sections on interesting topics that I haven't seen covered in other sewing books like what to look out for when using vintage sewing patterns, what under-garments help give a good retro silhouette and lots lots more. In fact it makes me wonder what she found to write about in her second book! I still haven't used any of the patterns yet so I can't comment on that part, but as a very interesting reference book, then yes I would definitely recommend it.


Ok so that was part one, watch out for parts two and three.... Or don't! I'm going to write them either way hahaha.

Book Review: The Great British Sewing Bee, Sew Your Own Wardrobe

What it is, basically?

To be honest, when I was sent a review copy of this year's Great British Sewing Bee book, my expectations were low. I was cynically expecting it to be a fluffy, glossy series companion with bios on this year's contestants and plenty of 'swoon-worthy' pictures of Patrick Grant: a homage to the show and little more. I hold my hands up, I was wrong. There, I said it.

It is actually a book about sewing. As in, it teaches you how to sew. I guess the clue is in the tag line 'Sew Your Own Wardrobe', which somehow I must have missed at first. And there aren't even that many pictures of Patrick in it. The best bit is that it has a very generous separate patterns pack which includes loads of multi-sized patterns for women, men and children, all of which have been (or will be, I assume) featured in the challenges set in this year's series. You'd really struggle not to find at least a couple of the styles worth having a go at (personally, I think I'll give the leggings a whirl...). Plus the patterns are printed very clearly, it's not a headache-inducing mess of lines like the pattern sheets from a Burda magazine. With the pattern pieces traced off, the book then assists the reader with the construction of those garments using clear diagrams and helpful written explanations.

Who is it for?

Unless you've been sewing for as long as May Martin (Patrick's super-skilled sewing teacher co-judge) or Anne (the 80-something winner from series one), this book is bound to be useful. All it assumes from the reader is that they own a sewing machine, can thread it already (or can find out elsewhere how to thread it) and aren't afraid to put the pedal to the metal. Ideally it'd make a great gift for someone who has watched the show and expressed an interest in getting into sewing themselves, or perhaps for someone who has already made a few things but lacks confidence in expanding their repertoire.

Is it any good?

Yes, for the reasons given above. Plus it's only £25, which I think is a really good price for so much detailed information and heaps of useful sewing patterns. However, if I were to pick holes in this book, I might say that it's not an overly stylish publication in terms of the book design and the garment styles involved (but we've got Tilly's book on the way for that). But in a way, that is also this book's strength, because I'd imagine it will then appeal to a wider range of would-be sewing enthusiasts. Don't get me wrong, the book does include lots of beautiful photographs that inspire you to run to your sewing corner (or carve yourself out a sewing corner) and immerse yourself in buttons, but it doesn't have a strong particular look, if you get what I mean.

Neither does it particularly encourage the reader to unleash their creativity and f^*k shit up with their sewing machine. By which I mean, it doesn't offer variations on these basic patterns by suggesting alternative collars, sleeve styles, skirt lengths, pocket additions etc. But that's not what this book is concerned with and it doesn't need to be. It's teaching you to make a really wide range of great, wearable garments by acquiring and applying a whole heap of sewing techniques. If you are creatively inclined beyond that, I don't think you really need a book to give you permission to then take things further.

For me, my favourite part of the book is actually the foreword written by May:

'...It's so rewarding making an item of clothing, for yourself or somebody else, that is all your own work. If you keep it, you can give yourself a pat on the back and if you're making it for someone else, you're giving them a part of yourself...'