Free Pattern Friday: Wide Strap Maxi Dress for Adults

Welcome to my monthly 'Free Pattern Friday' feature, where I road test a free sewing pattern or tutorial: sometimes a children's one, sometimes an adult's one. I try to publish these posts every first Friday of the month, timed to provide inspiration for those who plan to get their sew on over the weekend. I firmly believe that, if you pick your projects carefully, sewing doesn't have to be a crazy-expensive way to clothe yourself and your family. Thanks to all the amazing pattern designers who have offered up their hard work for us to enjoy for free.

I'm guessing that most sewers who have been at it for a while are aware of the wonderful treasure trove that is Peppermint Magazine's sewing pattern collection. With each edition of the Australia-based magazine, they work with an independent pattern designer to produce a sewing pattern that gets included with that issue. All the previous patterns are also available via their website. They all used to be free, but more recently they have introduced a pay-what-you-can system, which I love. 

(image source: Peppermint Magazine)

The Wide-Strap Maxi Dress pattern, produced by Lauren Boyle from pattern brand Elbe Textiles, caught my eye some time ago but I wasn't really sure if it was 'me'. But at some point I realised that it could be worn like a pinafore with a T-shirt underneath, plus I could shorten it so I wouldn't feel like I was drowning in fabric. I am in the lucky position to be able to afford sewing patterns, so I picked one for the paid options. I would really like to encourage anyone who can afford to pay to do so. It helps keep this wonderful magazine, and it's collection of fantastic patterns, afloat. But if you really can't afford to pay for the pattern, don't feel guilty for accessing it. See if you can support them in other ways, for example by posting about the pattern and magazine on social media. Massive thanks to both Peppermint Magazine and Lauren Boyle for creating and making this pattern available for the community to enjoy. Also, big thanks to Ruby for taking these pro photos of me in my dress!

Pattern type:

The pattern is for an A-line maxi dress with side splits and a elasticated back. I shortened the length by about 20cm so mine isn't quite as 'maxi'.

Sizing info:

The pattern is graded from 30" bust to 51" bust. My measurements put me in the 'D' size, but when I tried it on near the end of construction, I found it very loose around the bust. Thankfully, this is very easy to adjust, you just need to make the elastic tighter at the back. 

Fabric info:

There isn't much guidance given on fabric selection. There's nothing on the webpage, other than a link to the particular linen they've used for the sample photographed. In the instructions PDF is specifies 'Midweight woven fabrics – linen, cotton, hemp, rayon'. For my version, I used the Riviera viscose & linen blend in 'Olive' from Fabric Godmother (not sponsored but I get a staff discount). Aside from needing to be ironed every two minutes, I think it was a great choice for this pattern. My initial fear was that it might be too lightweight, but it has such a nice drape and feels very breezy on hot and sticky days. 

I bought a cone of Tencel thread from James Tailoring. So aside from the elastic at the back, this garment is, theoretically, biodegradable. 

Findings:

As with the other Peppermint Magazine patterns I've tried, I found this pattern to be very well produced. I love that the pattern file includes the layers function so I could specify which size I wanted when I got it printed in A0 format. The instructions are lovely and clear, with very helpful diagrams to illustrate the steps.  

The construction method for this project is really fun. It looks like a really simple garment, but the designer walks you through creating a really lovely finish with french-seamed everything! To my surprise, I didn't use my overlocker to finish a raw edge once. It makes this simple-looking garment really elevated. That said, there is a down-side with the method: there are practically no opportunities to assess and adjust the fit or length until it's practically finished. You're going to have to make a toile/muslin (I did not) or baste/tack everything together first to be able to assess the fit and length. 

As mentioned above, the saving grace is that the elastic that brings the top back in can be easily adjusted, which will effect the closeness and volume to some degree. But if you've cut a size that turns out to be too small, there's not much you can do about it, plus you won't be able to change the overall length. I would very much advise you study the finished garment measurements before selecting your size/s, and hold the paper pattern pieces up to your body to decide on your preferred length before any scissors slice any fabric. 

Customisation ideas:

Here's some ideas to get more from this pattern:

• cut the length even shorter for a mini-dress or top
• ignore the in-seam pockets and add patch pockets at the thigh, and even to the front bib area, for a more utilitarian look
• make the straps narrower for a more delicate look
• cut the bodice around the waist and add a gathered skirt or gathered peplum
• insert gathered frills into the seams of the straps

Would I make this again?

I'm low-level keeping my eyes peeled for a drape-y lightweight denim type fabric to make another in. It'd be tempting to add gold/orange top-stitching to give a nod to classic denim garment. 

Free Pattern Friday: Adult's Playsuit (Hacked)

Welcome to my monthly 'Free Pattern Friday' feature, where I road test a free sewing pattern or tutorial: sometimes a children's one, sometimes an adult's one. I publish these posts every first Friday of the month, timed to provide inspiration for those who plan to get their sew on over the weekend. I firmly believe that, if you pick your projects carefully, sewing doesn't have to be a crazy-expensive way to clothe yourself and your family. Thanks to all the amazing pattern designers who have offered up their hard work for us to enjoy for free.

It's the second month in a row that I'm posting about a free sewing pattern from the amazing resource that is the Peppermint Magazine's sewing pattern range. Can you blame me?! There's so many summer-friendly styles that are quick to make and easy to wear. The patterns are really easy to access; the A4 and A0 pattern files plus instruction documents are downloaded directly from each style's webpage, with just a sign up to their newsletter required (which you can obviously unsubscribe from, should you wish). It is also easy to donate a few quid to say thanks and to support this wonderful resource if you can afford to.

A couple of months ago I saw a woman in my local park walking her dog whilst wearing some black, linen-y cropped dungarees that looked amazing. I immediately identified them as the kind of summer dungarees that I wanted in my life! After giving it some thought, I realised that I could create something similar using the Peppermint Magazine playsuit pattern as the basis.... 

(image source: Peppermint Magazine) 

Pattern type:

This summer playsuit pattern, designed by Emily from In The Folds, is a cute little romper with tie straps, patch pockets and a concealed side-zip fastening. The fit is designed to be close fitting around the bust, with more looseness around the waist and hips with additional ease. 

As you have no doubt noticed, I lengthened the legs to mid-calf length. Where I live, the weather doesn't reach roasting-hot many days during the year, so I felt that I'd get more use from a longer version. 

Sizing info:

This pattern is graded to ten sizes, from 30" to 51.5" bust and 33" to 54.5" hip. I usually I have to grade out between by bust and waist/hips, but because there's more design ease through the waist and hips anyway, I made the straight size D and the fit worked out fine for me.

Fabric info:

The pattern advise is as follows: 'Consider using light to mid-weight fabrics such as: linen, linen blends, cotton, gauze or chambray. You could also consider sateen, silk (crepe de chine or habotai), tencel or viscose (rayon) for a dressier look. For a boxier silhouette, consider light-weight denims or heavy-weight cottons.' 

For mine, I used a light-weight, cotton canvas curtain that I found in a charity shop. It's pretty soft, and has just the right amount of body to avoid VPLs or anything like that. 

Findings:

I got this pattern printed using an A0 printing service, so I already set myself off on the right foot with this project! As with the other Peppermint Mag patterns I've tried, including others designed by In The Folds, this was a pleasure to use. The instructions are lengthy enough to impart all you'll need to know, without being overly fussy and confusing. Overall, I found the construction process was logical and straight forward. 

I'm pretty happy with the finished item. The model in the photos is wearing the sample without anything underneath in most of the photos, which I think most people (and definitely me!) would find uncomfortably revealing. I love wearing mine as seen here, with a basic, tight-ish fitting knit top underneath. 

Literally my only criticism is that I think there should been a small bust dart positioned from the armpit. That area gapes a little, and for any one fairly full-busted, I'd recommend making a toile/muslin, or at least having a fitting before cutting out the front facing piece, to see if it's something you could use. 

Would I make it again?

Hmm... possibly? There's a lot of dungarees patterns out there that are on my radar to try, but I wouldn't rule out using this again as the basis for another project. 

Free Pattern Friday: Adult's Valley Jumpsuit

Welcome to my monthly 'Free Pattern Friday' feature, where I road test a free sewing pattern or tutorial: sometimes a children's one, sometimes an adult's one. I publish these posts every first Friday of the month, timed to provide inspiration for those who plan to get their sew on over the weekend. I firmly believe that, if you pick your projects carefully, sewing doesn't have to be a crazy-expensive way to clothe yourself and your family. Thanks to all the amazing pattern designers who have offered up their hard work for us to enjoy for free.

Friends, have I got a blinding free pattern to tell you about today?! (Short answer: yes.) You've probably already heard of the amazing resource that is the Peppermint Magazine's collection of free sewing patterns. But if you haven't: this Australia-based magazine employs the talents of an indie pattern designer to produce a free sewing pattern to coincide with the release of each print edition of their magazine. The magazine is released quarterly, so that's four incredible new free sewing patterns a year with 41 patterns already available to trawl through. The patterns are really easy to access; the A4 and A0 pattern files plus instruction documents are downloaded directly from each style's webpage, with just a sign up to their newsletter required (which you can obviously unsubscribe from, should you wish). It is also easy to donated a few quid if you can afford to, and seeing as print magazines are generally in a precarious position these days, I think it's important to do so to say thanks and to support this wonderful resource. 

Pattern type:

The pattern I've just road tested and am writing about today is the Valley jumpsuit. Designed by Raphaëlle Bonamy of Ready To Sew patterns, the Valley jumpsuit is a casual, super wearable style with elasticated waist, button front and large patch pockets. I absolutely love that the instructions are available in English, French and Spanish. The design itself is is really clever, consisting of just three pattern pieces that need to be cut from your fabric. The bodice and sleeves are ingeniously formed from just one pattern piece that you cut a pair of, and in the same vein, the trouser part has no side seams so is also made from one pattern piece. To get the garment on and off, the button front is assisted by a small back neck closure to open things up sufficiently.

Sizing info:

There's so much talk in the sewing community in recent months (years?) about size inclusivity, and many pattern companies are listening and expanding their offerings. I think the sizing of this particular pattern is a great example of what we'll see from most sewing pattern releases in the future. Spilt into two ranges (sizes 32 - 46 drafted for a B-cup and sizes 46 - 58 drafted for a D-cup) resulting in busts from 31" to 54" and hips from 35" to 60" approx. being catered for. In total the pattern has been graded to 28 sizes, including half sizes, which should help you to achieve an accurate fit. I appreciated that the garment ease for bust, waist and hips has been shared to give additional information when picking a size/s, because who wants to toile/muslin a whole damn jumpsuit?!

For mine, I used the size 38 for the top part of the bodice, and blended out to the size 40 below the bust for the waist downwards. According to the size chart, I should have gone for a larger size for the waist, but the elasticated waist meant that I was easily able to accommodate by tum. 

Fabric info:

The Valley jumpsuit instructions suggest that you select 'light weight fabric with drape ranging from tencel, cupro, linen, ramie or hemp, batik, poplin or light denim' for this pattern. 

This is my third jumpsuit made from African fabric, I just think they're a match made in heaven, and I'm sure this will end up getting as much use as the other two get. This particular fabric was given to me by Wax and Wraps, who sell African textiles by the metre, or in fantastic, monthly, sewing subscription boxes. It's a printed version of a traditional fabric from Cameroon called Ndop that's usually resist dyed with indigo. Check out this interesting article for more info on Ndop. This fabric I used for my jumpsuit is a wonderful, light-weight cotton with a similar handle to a poplin, but slightly less crisp. Because there's a linear aspect to the print design, there's a noticeable chevron effect at the centre back seam of the bodice, which I really love. The fabric was slightly narrower than the pattern called for, plus the fabric matching gave me some additional head-scratching, and I ended up having add a seam and piece the fabric to fit one of the bodice pattern pieces. I defy you to spot where it is in the finished garment though! 

Findings:

Going back through the instructions to write this post, I'm still blown away by the inclusivity of the sizing. I'm sure that sadly there are still a number of sewers that aren't able to fit this pattern who otherwise would have liked to have tried it, but that really has to be small minority. I'm also still really impressed by the drafting: that such a cool-looking, well-fitting style has been achieved with effectively just two pattern pieces. However, because there are so few pattern pieces, and subsequently fewer seams, I wonder if this style offers fewer opportunities for making fit adjustments, I don't know. 

Anyways, on top of my standard blending between sizes, I also shortened the bodice length by 1.5cm to allow for my short-waistedness (AKA high natural waist line). I usually have to remove about 2cm of length from the torso area of all sewing patterns I make, yet this time I wish that I hadn't. If I make another, I'll add that measurement back in because raising my arms up isn't the most comfortable! I might also lengthen the front and back rise on the bottom part a bit, because the rise on this garment is definitely higher than the rise on my other jumpsuits (my Zadie jumpsuit, pattern by Paper Theory and my Roberts Collection jumpsuit, pattern by Marilla Walker). If you are tall and/or have a long torso, I'd definitely recommend lengthening the bodice pieces before you cut out your fabric. It's always easier to remove any extra length that it turns out you didn't need, than to try and figure out how to add in some extra length later on.

Speaking of cutting out your fabric, one downside to having just two mammoth pattern pieces as opposed to a number of smaller ones is that I found that I wasted quite a bit of fabric in the lay. This was compounded by the fact that I had some pattern matching to consider. However, even though you have to cut the pattern out of a single layer of fabric, the cutting out process was probably quicker and potentially less of a headache than a pattern that consists of more pieces. 

When it came to the actual sewing, the instructions were wonderfully clear and easy to follow. To prevent the instructions document from becoming too unwieldy, some steps are included as links to posts on the Ready To Sew website, or in the case of the steps for making the waist casing, a YouTube video. This provides space for more detail and clearer visuals for these potentially tricky bits. I'm sure it's particularly helpful for visual learners, and turns this pattern into a real learning opportunity for beginner sewers.  

As I mentioned above, I would have preferred a tiny bit more length in the body and possibly the rise, but beyond that, I am genuinely thrilled with this jumpsuit! I wasn't sure initially that I liked the look of the patch pockets. I added them thinking that I could remove them at a later date, however I really like their placement and proportions now they're on the actual garment. 

Customisation ideas:

• Shorten the sleeves
• Shorten the leg length to make a playsuit/romper
• Add a side seam to the trouser section then taper or widen the leg shape for some different looks. It's amazing what this can do to completely alter the feel of a garment
• Adding a side seam to the bottom section also allows you the possibility to add inseam or slanted pockets if you'd prefer 
• Change the neckline to a V-neck
• Use smaller buttons and group them in pairs

Would I make it again?

Yes I could easily see myself making more of these, probably in a solid fabric, a black linen perhaps.