tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post3161773280365304912..comments2024-01-24T11:28:22.701+00:00Comments on 'So, Zo...': Trousers Fitting Quest: Update and Please Help! Zoehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10893813529679767893noreply@blogger.comBlogger35125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-59447438036081754472020-05-13T23:19:48.120+01:002020-05-13T23:19:48.120+01:00Hello, just came across your blog! It's such a...Hello, just came across your blog! It's such a common fit issue that it makes you wonder why trousers are not drafted with it in mind from the outset. Think I will post about this on my blog as the solution is actually quite simple... Have you been able to achieve a good fit on these? Anastasia @CleanCutPatternsAnastasia @CleanCutPatternshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11158904096799920317noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-68153877405650161952017-05-12T08:26:21.729+01:002017-05-12T08:26:21.729+01:00I have made at least 50 + toiles trying to elimin...I have made at least 50 + toiles trying to eliminate the same problem. I'd forget the big bottom, low slung, bow legged etc alterations none of these will eliminate the drag lines and it will send you crazy. You have a pelvis that tilts forwards (as many women do) and if you can visualise this shape in a pair of pants , you will realise why the drag lines appear.<br />I have found I can obtain an ok fit with a pattern that has a straighter back rise and the angle that the legs are drafted on the pattern will also determine the amount of drag lines. Extending (lengthening) the back crotch and dipping it down in the correct place your bottom is lowest will help as well. If you take too much out, it has to be added elsewhere and that isn't that successful.I have tried duplicating my shape onto the patterns with a flexible curve t, but was also had disappointing results.<br />Unfortunately the pattern you are using was a disaster on me also. I find Style arc and some of the Named patterns are pretty good (with the mentioned tweaks ) I have given up trying to make homemade fitted pants and spend money and buy good quality jeans that look good and have good stretch and recovery. Stick to sewing straighter and wide leg styles :-) and save your sanity !<br />Good luckajmhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14836640331890208741noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-60970623251374135942017-05-03T07:21:18.862+01:002017-05-03T07:21:18.862+01:00as someone mentioned above - the ginger jeans by c...as someone mentioned above - the ginger jeans by closet case patterns are awesome and also have a how to fit jeans resource associated with it. They also have an online course you can do and **most importantly** access to Heather to ask questions - eg about fitting issues. The fitting resources they give have 14 common fitting problems for skinny jeans and what to do about them. Its an awesome resource<br />go to their website and go to sewing classes - online sewing classes. I recently completed it (having never made jeans and having made only 2 pairs of "proper" pants before ie with zips and everything) and it was awesomebhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00931388615007892430noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-60294302181011536412017-05-02T09:38:10.723+01:002017-05-02T09:38:10.723+01:00I am late to this post, but I was wondering if thi...I am late to this post, but I was wondering if this page by 7 Pine Design might help you: http://7pinedesign.com/crotch-width-what-causes-crotch-smiles/ She suggests that the solution might be to increase the crotch width rather than scooping. She has a few other posts about sewing trousers, but they're not clearly tagged as such (can be found under the 'sewing tips' tag). Minahttp://makemorestashless.weebly.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-55093282191994694332017-04-26T10:34:10.803+01:002017-04-26T10:34:10.803+01:00Very good post. I certainly love this website. Kee...Very good post. I certainly love this website. Keep writing!<br /><br /><a href="http://superfighters2.net/" rel="nofollow">superfighters 2</a> |<a href="http://monkeygohappyaz.com/" rel="nofollow">monkey go happy</a>alicetaylorhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05650400119953976974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-91349895940496994092017-04-26T08:02:06.155+01:002017-04-26T08:02:06.155+01:00Like many of the commenters I think it's funny...Like many of the commenters I think it's funny how much we worry over the perfect fit when we wouldn't have given it a thought in rtw, well I certainly wouldn't. However now I can't unsee fit issues, much like you with these trousers I assume, even though they look great to me! I just read a post by Charlie (noble & daughter) about trouser fitting and the issues she described sounded familiar to me, and to yours. Like many of the comments here she talks about the back crotch curve & lengthening it- might be worth a read? Good luck! Kathrynhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05183395919767332073noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-65759472445613181252017-04-26T04:43:00.725+01:002017-04-26T04:43:00.725+01:00I like your topic of selection for blog but want t...I like your topic of selection for blog but want to suggest you for sharing some more information regarding your subject so that we can understand your thought more clearly <br /> <a href="http://www.barney4.com" rel="nofollow">barney</a> | <a href="http://www.abcya4.com" rel="nofollow">abcya</a> starfallhttp://www.starfall2games.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-20044714427984638992017-04-23T13:43:41.151+01:002017-04-23T13:43:41.151+01:00Wow! I'm sorry you're struggling but how g...Wow! I'm sorry you're struggling but how great that you posted this! Thank you! The number of comments saying they are having the same problem makes me feel so much better! I've never made a pair of pants that really worked (except for pleated trousers back in the 70s). The fit is so complicated! All these modifications make my brain hurt! I have enough trouble fitting dresses... but I'll stay tuned. Maybe you'll be the one to solve it all for us!Laurahttp://www.adressofmyown.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-86857953577133785232017-04-21T15:11:40.654+01:002017-04-21T15:11:40.654+01:00I had a similar issue with this pattern. I found a...I had a similar issue with this pattern. I found a helpful advise somewhere to add length to the outer back leg seam (rather than to the rise), between a bit below the waist and the lowest point of the rise (but on the outer seam). Than you will need to ease the back side seam to the front side seam as they are no longer the same length.Roni Arbelhttp://wardrobehistology.blogspot.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-21898737509321083302017-04-19T18:09:41.323+01:002017-04-19T18:09:41.323+01:00I feel your pain. I sooooo feel your pain. Like 11...I feel your pain. I sooooo feel your pain. Like 11+ muslins later feel your pain! I went through this a few years ago with a different trouser pattern and have two long drawn-out saga posts on my blog with lots of suggestions from folks and things I tried. And I can't say that I've completely sorted it out, honestly, even with years of trying. Less fitted pants are worse than tighter ones. In my case, it's a full butt but also a low butt, so my rear end is pushing down fabric below the crotch (if I literally stick my hands down the back of my pants and pull my cheeks up, it looks a lot better *grumble*. I've lengthened, scooped, tried fish eye darts and pretty much everything I could find. I think I got the biggest improvement on slashing a muslin mid-hip over my butt to give that more room, but when you've made 100 tweaks it's really hard to tell. :/ I fear I'll be in this endless cycle again soon as I'd like to try some less fitted trousers for summer pedal pushers. But worth mentioning 2 things: 1) we're our own worst critics. I have to remind myself nearly no one who doesn't sew trousers a lot has given this much (or any) thought to back of leg wrinkles, and your trousers both look great and I bet fit a hell of a lot better than RTW anyway! :) 2) If you do have the low/full butt thing like me, you may find you actually *need* some of that ease to be comfortable. Through pinching fabric in and trying various adjustments I determined some of that ease is actually needed for movement and so I can sit comfortably. If I pinch out a lot of ease, they become uncomfortable even if it doesn't look like I've given myself a wedgie. So I'd rather a bit of ease (that I thankfully can't see except in blog photos, ha ha) and comfy trousers. I've honestly had to learn to let some of my fitting anxiety go. Cheering you on from the sidelines!Tashahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11368418516615371972noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-82150666669978541082017-04-18T17:39:51.339+01:002017-04-18T17:39:51.339+01:00Honestly they really don't look bad at all! I ...Honestly they really don't look bad at all! I think it's so easy to get sucked down a rabbit hole of seeing every wrinkle & imperfection. I'm currently obsessing over my front crotch curve & excess fabric behind my knees! There's loads of great advice above and I'm a total beginner in fitting trousers... but I reckon that skinny jeans / jeggings etc have skewed our perception of fit. I went to a pattern drafting class and most of us were struggling with our trouser blocks for this exact reason. Also the excess fabric under your bum - I have this (I'm all bum) and to some extent you probably will always need a little here to enable you to sit down. Finally, for trousers that you've already cut out (i.e. past the point of flat pattern adjustment) you could always unpick the seams up to your hip, put them on inside out (legs will be flapping about) and just pin to fit, trying to keep the grainline true and the seams straight and perpendicular to the ground. Quick and dirty fix but may rescue some beautiful fabric.Alisonnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-12728471097708075282017-04-17T16:13:16.963+01:002017-04-17T16:13:16.963+01:00Argh I feel your pain. I am no expert at all, but...Argh I feel your pain. I am no expert at all, but have you compared the back crotch curve on these to a pair of RTW that fit?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01590212324752526648noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-55859838952194985272017-04-16T12:14:17.345+01:002017-04-16T12:14:17.345+01:00I don't think these look too bad at all. In te...I don't think these look too bad at all. In terms of improving the fit, I would deal with the obvious problem first - the tightness across the rear high and low hip - before changing the shape of the crotch curve. My fitting book makes the same suggestion that many have mentioned here, lengthening the back crotch length between inseam and hipline by adding length at the back crotch point. I would do this before any 'scooping' as the shape may not be wrong, just too small.<br /><br />I don't think you need a full rear adjustment or low buttock adjustment. If you get your muslin so that there is enough room for everything and you still have pooling under the buttocks then you might need to change the crotch curve shape by scooping.<br /><br />I think Tasha's tips about making one change at a time is good and I would add to that, start at the centre with the crotch length and shape and work out to the edges. Take lots of notes and mark changes in different colour pens and number them, 'as though you are about to suffer a serious bout of amnesia', to quote Kenneth D. King.<br /><br />One other thing I've learned about pant fitting is that the fabric changes the fit more dramatically than with tops, so the wide seam allowance tip is a good one that I always use with a new fabric.<br /><br />I do wonder if stretch fabrics have made us expect a bit too much from close fitting pants in wovens or low-stretch fabric. There will be some wrinkles, unless we plan on not sitting down at all :).<br /><br />Debranoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-34097189624929382922017-04-16T08:46:47.177+01:002017-04-16T08:46:47.177+01:00I struggled for a long time with pants fitting. I ...I struggled for a long time with pants fitting. I hope I've got a reasonable toile now ready to go but I got help to do it. Lots of help from a professional, who also struggled with me (made me feel better!).<br />On the scooping issue, it helped me to visualise the side cross section of the body. I have a large and low bum and it's easy to see that the curve needs to accommodate that. It's also easier to understand that if you have to do a lot of scooping there wouldn't be enough fabric to go from back seam to side seam so need to add at side seam. Not much use, sorry, without diagrams but most fitting books have this. <br />Good luck! And please wish me luck too! Annehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09932830885813917282noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-35549164559052635712017-04-15T22:56:01.303+01:002017-04-15T22:56:01.303+01:00I have almost no experience in pants, but plan to ...I have almost no experience in pants, but plan to change that, and already did some research on patterns I like (soon to be blogged ;-)) and I came across Closet Case Patterns, where you can find a pdf booklet about sewing jeans and how to make the perfect fit. I didn't buy it myself (yet) but it seemed really in-dept and good. Maybe you could have a look there as well :-) Good luck! Barbarahttp://lilliepawillie.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-7695274895110499482017-04-15T18:45:58.358+01:002017-04-15T18:45:58.358+01:00Yeah the less fabric/more room thing is a total mi...Yeah the less fabric/more room thing is a total mind bender when you're trying to visualize these things! <br />Just from looking at the pictures, I agree the bum seems tight, and I think some of the wrinkles on the back thighs may be pulling around diagonally due to the adjustments that you made to the inner seams before. I'd suggest adding a bit to the side seams at the bum level (especially if you decide to scoop out the back curve), and readjusting the amount you want to take out of the back legs so that some is coming out of the side seam and some out of the inseam, so it's more balanced. <br />My best advice for testing this stuff out is to make another pair in a similar fabric to what you want for the final ones, give yourself really wide seam allowances to work with, and be patient. Just make one change at a time if you can stand it, and then try them on again, and decide what to change next. It's not a quick or easy process, but having trousers that actually fit your body is totally worth it! Good luck!! Tashahttp://tashamillergriffith.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-36442752306391643732017-04-15T13:40:30.871+01:002017-04-15T13:40:30.871+01:00I won't comment on pattern changes as I think ...I won't comment on pattern changes as I think you have some good suggestions above and I'm no expert on it, but in terms of the current pairs I'd probably take the legs in a bit more, starting in the side seams below the hip. I think part of the problem with the black ones is hey are quite snug through the butt but then looser through the leg. This is what I alwAys do with stretch skinnies until I'm happy with them, anyway. 😉Tanit-Isishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15824217102632813598noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-49662681647691906882017-04-15T09:49:01.302+01:002017-04-15T09:49:01.302+01:00Aaargh! I have the same issue with all my RTW trou...Aaargh! I have the same issue with all my RTW trousers. I think that changing the crotch curve would work well and maybe still taking in the side seams anther 0.25-inch. I am dying to give trousers a go but they just seem like they are too difficult to fit on your own. Good luck with the fitting. XxMother of Reinventionhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14409826036412353940noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-60390631340267084242017-04-15T09:39:15.469+01:002017-04-15T09:39:15.469+01:00Yes the pant is too tight in the rear. The inseam ...Yes the pant is too tight in the rear. The inseam is too long and the fabric poodles under your seat because the fabric can not come up. (see slanted folds). <br />You have to make the crotch lower about maybe about 1 - 1.5 cm. You have to add at back crotch tip about 1 - 1.5 cm. You have to add at side seam maybe 0.5 cm. If you have sewed it you decide if you have to have scooping out (not when you have not enough seam allowance). I don't think so - your back looks about average - a bit on the narrow side (more wide than round) so maybe when having enough room for your body inside the pants you can alter the back crotch slant a bit to a straighter angle.<br />lg posauneAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-41046216089807217842017-04-15T04:50:13.862+01:002017-04-15T04:50:13.862+01:00I have similar issues. I scooped out the crotch at...I have similar issues. I scooped out the crotch at the bottom of the 'J' (quite a lot, I guess I have a droopy mummy bum now), then pulled up the CB till the wrinkles disappeared, kind of like giving yourself a wedgie, LOL) and trim off the excess crotch length from the top, tapering to the side seams, and then I added a bit more width at the side seams to relieve the bum pulling. After a few toiles I got reasonably good fit. Much later, I bought the Stylearc barb pants, and lo and behold their crotch shape is almost the same. This may not help you, and everyone's body is different, but that's my 2c worth. LynneLynneSewshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09264795524173818822noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-61211562217842972572017-04-14T23:35:18.438+01:002017-04-14T23:35:18.438+01:00I might say something contradictory to other poste...I might say something contradictory to other posters, but what is the difference between your waist measurement and your hip measurement? You might need to add extra width and length over your bum, or maybe just increase your waist measurement. <br /><br />I made some jeans a while ago in a different style, but the problem down the back of the leg looked the same as yours and was a result of changes made above the hipline. <br /><br />Don't scoop the seam until you can be sure that you don't need extra space...Katrinahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02429683896726352793noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-84191048405729671272017-04-14T23:03:15.331+01:002017-04-14T23:03:15.331+01:00It looks to my in-expert eye like the shape of the...It looks to my in-expert eye like the shape of the bum of the pants doesn't match your body's shape. IMO it's *almost* like the pants are trying to accommodate fullness at the lower bum, like a teardrop, but your fullness is distributed more evenly and/or higher up, like a sphere. Hence a little tightness at the top and pooling fabric below. Maybe? I have no idea how to fix it, but a flexible ruler as mentioned above would be my first step.<br /><br />I started a pants-sloper class on Craftsy but haven't gotten very far into it. I'm hoping that gives me more insight into what measurements matter where. Please keep updating as you figure things out! Pants fitting has been so tricky for me, especially trying to fit my own body by myself, and it's encouraging to see what someone else is doing!Kristenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16618791529567648903noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-91821084996054886912017-04-14T22:23:24.749+01:002017-04-14T22:23:24.749+01:00I'm having the same issues at the moment. 3 tr...I'm having the same issues at the moment. 3 trouser toiles and I'm not convinced they're any good. I even drafted my own. Maybe we can help each other. Www.ragbagsandgladrags.bligspot.co.uk<br /><br />Claire Cooperhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15923437480914463238noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-7212935836423589542017-04-14T22:04:04.050+01:002017-04-14T22:04:04.050+01:00I would suggest getting one of those bendable rule...I would suggest getting one of those bendable rulers, a long one, and take the actual shape of your front and back rise to see how it compares to the pattern. It will give you a lot of information. Put a button or ribbon mid-ruler and place that in the centre of your crotch. Bend the ruler to your shape, front and back, and then step out of it without changing the shape. Lay it on your pattern pieces to see how they compare. Then adjust to fit your shape.<br />Looking at the fit, it seems to me that the side seams need letting out a little bit and the legs seem too long so the hem of the pants can't sit where it should.<br />I'll be very interested to read how you solve these problems.<br />Pants – gotta love 'em gotta hate 'em. Easy to sew. Hard to fit.<br />Corraggio. Avanti.<br />Vancouver Barbara<br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-35599648866899399512017-04-14T18:52:37.143+01:002017-04-14T18:52:37.143+01:00Hi there! @themagpiegate on instagram here. Turns ...Hi there! @themagpiegate on instagram here. Turns out you and I share pants fitting issues! Two things should help a lot: <br /><br />1. Scoop out the back crotch curve. Yes, it takes a little width out, but you're not losing more that 1/2" total, and you can always add at the side seams if you want a little extra with in case. It'll take care of the diagonal pull lines along your hips.<br /><br />2. The wrinkles along the inner thighs can likely be fixed by either a knock-knee or full inner thigh adjustment (maybe both). Heather's got a great guide here:<br />https://closetcasepatterns.com/14-common-jeans-pants-fitting-adjustments/<br /><br />Hope this helps!<br />Magpiehttp://instagram.com/themagpiegatenoreply@blogger.com