Wednesday, 8 May 2013

MMM'13: Days 5, 6 & 7

Here's a little three-day update of my version of the MMM'13 challenge: 


Day 5:
Me-mades:

Also worn at various points: second-hand cardi and Captain jacket

So I've been trying to mix up the locations of my documentation photos a bit this year. I'm doing that for two reasons, 1) I find seeing snippets of other people's lives, homes and work places really interesting so following that logic I can only assume others might like to see some snippets of my life and its locations, and 2) I really like having these picture sets of a month in my life as a reminder of what I was up to and what my life was like that year, so a mixture of locations will be nicer for me in the future when I look back on 2013. For example, the photo above is taken at one of my places of work, Sew Over It in Clapham, South London. I was teaching a tulip skirt making class that day, can you see the students beavering away behind me to the right? 


Day 6:
Me-mades:
Also worn: second hand cardi

This is basically the only pre-pregnancy dress I can still fit in, thanks to it being an accommodating A-line shift style and being made from slightly stretchy synthetic double knit. The me-made/self-stitched challenges always make me wear dresses more often than I'd be likely to if left to my usual devices, but I really enjoy it when I do wear them. I taught a Pattern Cutting class on Day 6 in this outfit, and it made me feel much more put together and professional than I probably would in my usual jeggings/jersey top combo.  



Day 7:
Me-mades:
Also worn: second hand cardi and Captain jacket when I went out

Yes I can wear an outfit that doesn't have mustard-yellow in it, as long as there's red in there somewhere instead! It's starting to get silly how often I'm wearing these treggings now I've made them, isn't it?! I promise I have washed them at least. They are just soooo comfy. In fact, I'm thinking of making my challenge pledge a bit tighter and excluding the wear of second-hand (not me-made) jeggings after all. I'll see how big my bump grows towards the end of the challenge, I'd be not pledge-too-soon!  

Monday, 6 May 2013

Vintage Curtain Spring/Summer Handbag


The sun is starting to shine and the flowers are in full bloom and I wanted to celebrate the overall pissing-off of Winter with a new bag. Doesn't matter that it's still damn chilly where I live so I have to pair it with my Winter wool coat! I've been using the same shoulder bag for a couple of years now, and although I love it it's pretty ratty in places now. Plus all that leather, water-proof layering and chunky metal-tooth zip means it's damn heavy to lug about. 

Also, with all the changes going on with my body at the moment, a bag project would be likely to have far more of useful longevity compared to the items of clothing I'm currently making for myself!


Pattern:

Somehow, despite never buying anything from them, I've ended up on the mailing for PDF sewing pattern company ithinksew.com. I don't mind though because their newsletters always feature some sweet patterns for babies, children or bags that I usually have vague feelings towards trying some day. Well one day their Katie Boston Bag must have properly caught my eye (plus I think it was on sale) because I bought the PDF and recently got round to printing it out. I really like it's retro shape which I felt would be perfect made up in some of my epic stash of vintage fabric pieces.


Fabric:

I've had this vintage curtain in my stash for over a year now, and wasn't quite sure what to do with it as the pattern is quite large and 'curtain-y'. I thought it's be ace for this bag pattern because I could select sections of the pattern to form 'pictures' for the main front and back panels. Judging by the print design, I think it must be from the very early 1950's, but the curtain fabric itself is in fantastic condition. There are no signs of wear, tearing, fading or thinning at all. It's not a massive piece, so I was able to get these bag pattern pieces plus make a little coin purse for my mate Kirstin (can you believe it's the first money-purse she's ever owned despite being in her mid-30's?!) and all that was left was tiny scraps. A pretty satisfying vintage-fabric stash bust!  

The lining fabric was some synthetic stuff that I got from a recent fabric swap. I loved the bright peacock-y blue colour but didn't fancy the synthetic feeling against my skin, so using it for the lining of this bag seemed a clever choice. 


Project Details:

The instruction for the project were very good, I just took my time doing a step or two each day. This bag contains quite a lot of heavy fusible interfacing (1 metre of which was the only thing I needed to buy for the whole project) so some seams were very thick and tricky to sew on my poor old domestic machine from the 1970's. 

I didn't do the elasticated pocket section as per the pattern and instructions, which I fear would have taken an age. Instead I made two sets of patch pockets for the inside to help me organise all my little bits that usual float about at the bottom. I've even got a frikkin' pen pocket now! Plus it's awesome not to experience the 'Oh shit I've lost my mobile phone!' panic anymore, which I used to go through almost hourly with my last voluminous bag.


The only other major change I made was to eschew buying webbing for the handles as suggested, and instead made a pair from the same fabric. This was largely because the webbing selection at my local haberdashers was pretty poor, plus I like using what I already have where possible if it doesn't compromise on anything too much.  

The construction process requires you to make up the main panels attaching the outer layers to the lining, and to do the same by attaching the outer gusset/zip section to the corresponding lining pieces. You then attached the main panels to the gusset/zip section (which by this point is a loop) with all your seam allowances inside the bag. You then use bias binding to disguise those raw edges. They advised making your own bias but I used this contrast hot pink stuff that had been lurking in my stash instead. 

I'd definitely recommend this bag pattern/project, especially if you have some hefty denim needles and a robust sewing machine. It's a lovely shaped bag that proves a good canvas for some beautiful fabric. 

Sunday, 5 May 2013

MMM'13: Days 1, 2 3 & 4

Time to start documenting this here challenge....


Day 1:
Me-Mades:
Also worn: second-hand cardi

As sunny as it may be, it's windy as all hell here at the moment and damn chilly with it, hence all the layers. I'm truly amazed that I can still wear these mustard trousers when I had to decommission most of my other non-maternity trousers ages ago. I think it must be a combination of a high elastane content in the fabric and the style being quite low-rise. I'm not sure how many weeks left I have of wear from the, so expect to see them quite often!


Day 2:
Me-mades:
Also worn at various points of the day:
Second-hand cardi and hoodie

The reason the treggings/leggings were hastily made was because I signed myself up to a pregnancy yoga class then realised with a small amount of panic that I hadn't been to a yoga class since the 1990's and didn't have a clue what people wear to them these days! I then realised that I didn't have anything suitable so made these over two days. I'll blog about them properly soon. Paired with the Mariner T-shirt and a second-hand hoodie, it was a successful yoga outfit, hurrah! I was planning on getting changed before I went to a poker night later on, but the outfit was so comfy that I simply swapped the hoodie for a cardi and jacket and left the rest on. No I didn't win the poker, but I came really close!



Day 3:
Me-mades:
Refashioned tights
Also worn: second-hand cardi

Another insanely windy day, but so nice to use the MMM'13 Flickr group's Friday photo theme of 'Water' as an excuse to head down to the beach to get my documentation photo taken next to the English Channel. The tights are refashioned in the sense that they are normal tights that I cut down and reattached some elastic to so they are kind of 'home-made' maternity tights. I'll blog about them soon. I'm also rocking a me-made bag which will be blogged about on Monday, and some new (to me) charity shop shoes that I'm mildly in love with at the moment. 




Day 4:
Me-mades:
Also worn: second-hand cardi


Oh I can really see me wearing little else below the waist this month, these treggings/leggings are so comfy. (I'll decide what I'm actually calling them soon too.) My batwing tops are some of the few pre-maternity tops I can still wear as they are just long enough to not rise up annoyingly with the larger belly (along with the Mariner T-shirt). 

Friday, 3 May 2013

The Importance of Refashioning and Stash Busting


Today I feel a need to talk about why I think that refashioning existing garments and sewing from your fabric stash is really important. I was planning a post like this anyhow, but watching The Island President last night brought the whole subject to the top of my 'stuff to write about' agenda. Not that refashioning, stash busting or even the garment industry are at all directly discussed in this film, which is actually an incredibly interesting look at the politics of climate change. But when faced with the sad truth that millions of people, particularly those who live in island states (like The Maldives of which the truly awesome Mohammed Nasheed pictured up there is/was the president of) are currently watching their countries be washed away by the rising sea levels caused by global warming, and then being shown the depressingly self-interested politicians wasting last-ditch opportunities like 2009's Copenhagen climate change summit to do anything constructive to prevent the escalating destruction, it reminds me that every single person on this planet has some responsibility to try to make a change. Plus  we really don't have very long to try round the current status quo of elevated C02 emissions.


'So what the hell does that have to do with my fabric stash, Zo?', you may be thinking. Well, manufacturing and transportation use phenomenal amounts of fossil fuels, not to mention use whole oceans-worth of water and release harmful untreated chemicals and dyes into the environment reclessly destroying natural habits. Therefore fabric production and distribution are responsible for much of the emissions that are causing the sea levels to rise, so by this logic I (and hopefully heaps of other people living comfortably in developed nations who have noticed that governments and Big Business clearly have little/no interest in making noticeable changes) have been making a real concerted effort to consume less newly manufactured products. For a few years now I've furnished my home exclusively with second-hand furniture, I don't run a car and use public transport to get anywhere that my legs can't carry me to, and am committed to using second-hand fabric or existing garments to make my own clothes, and buy what I can't make (knitwear, footwear, accessories like belts) second-hand. I know there are lots more areas in which I could make better choices to raise my sustainability game, like in the area of food which we are starting to focus on lots more (having just pledged to dramatically cut down our meat intake), but everyone has to start somewhere with one or two areas of their lives otherwise it's all too overwhelming.

(industrial fabric dyeing plant)

Fabric production and processing are notoriously wasteful and damaging industries, not to mention all the shipping and transportation that the raw materials and finished products go through to get them to where they need to be so they can be consumed by us. If you make your own clothes rather than buying them already manufactured for you, you are already cutting out a lot more shipping, trucking about and C02 emitting, as well as avoiding being directly responsible for the exploitation of millions of ill-paid workers suffering terrible and dangerous working conditions. However, as sewers I feel we can do more to discourage unsustainable manufacture, in particular fabric production and processing.


At this point of a debate on this topic, I often hear the (perfectly valid and understandable) argument, 'But I want to support my local fabric shop', or 'But so many people's livelihoods, particularly vulnerable people in developing nations, depend on production and manufacture'. Believe me when I say that I totally hear that argument and am aware of the complexity of this whole thing, and do not want anyone to be pushed (further) into poverty. But as has been proven over and over again, governments, manufacturing companies and retailers are failing to make changes to green-up their activities despite thousands of scientists spelling out to them and us all that no changes in practices equals irreversible global destruction that has already begun. As horrible as it sounds, it's hard to talk about the livelihoods of anyone involved in the production, transportation or selling of manufactured goods when, with no change, there will literally not be a planet that we can live on. Expect the phrase 'climate evacuee' to become more commonly used over the next decade.

So that is why I have decided to completely stop buying new mass-manufactured clothing and to dramatically reduced the amount of new fabric I buy to sew with. I know that I was incredibly lucky to have worked for a time for a textile recycling charity so had access to lots of second-hand fabric which I still have quite a bit of for my sewing projects, but even when it's all used up, I'll still be committed to avoiding buying new fabric and sourcing already existing textiles. It is hard, I'm obsessed with beautiful fabric as much as the next sewer, but I wouldn't feel comfortable freely shopping for fabric knowing about the damage fabric production and processing creates.


I don't know a single sewer that hasn't been sewing for more than five minutes that doesn't have even a modest stash of fabric, and I know literally no-one who doesn't have some unused garments sitting in their wardrobes or cupboards. If I have managed to avoid it so far, this is where I may sound a bit preachy: I think all of us who enjoy sewing should look to what we've already got to start our projects, if not always then more often. There. I said it. And if you don't like what's currently in your stash, or don't feel particularly inspired by it, then attend or organise a fabric swap with other sewers. That way you can off-load the pieces you just aren't feeling for pieces that do float your boat.

Wednesday, 1 May 2013

Happy MMMay'13! Participants Giveaway with Sewbox.co.uk

***THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED***

I can think of no better way to celebrate the start of MMMay'13 than with a giveaway competition for the challenge's participants. Rather awesomely, one of the lovely sponsors of my blog, Sewbox.co.uk, has kindly offered two fabulous prizes and are willing to send them anywhere in the world totally free of charge to the two lucky winners. Both prize options are designed to aid yet more self-stitcthery. 


Prize Option 1: YOUR CHOICE of sewing pattern from their awesome selection. Sewbox.co.uk have a really wide selection of independent sewing pattern companies' products including blogger-favourites  Colette Patterns, Sewaholic, DIY Couture, Christina Haynes patterns and MANY MORE, and as you know we are all about that round these parts! If I were allowed to enter my own giveaway, I'd be sorely tempted to choose the Hot Patterns Riviera Hello, Sailor! Pants, or the super fun and sexy Marilyn Halter Dress by Eliza M Patterns. But that's just me.


Prize Option 2: YOUR CHOICE of 1 metre of fabric from their drool-inducing selection. They have more Liberty prints than you can shake a stick at, so if you are one of the Liberty-festishists out there, now's your chance to snaffle a metre of something delicious! (Remember, if you win you can buy another metre of your chosen fabric from Sewbox so you have enough for a blouse or something.)

How to Enter: Apologies to readers of this blog who are not participating this year in Me-Made-May, this giveaway competition is only for MMM'13 participants (Hint: come back in two weeks when I'll have a treat applicable to EVERYONE!).

So, if you are a participant of MMM'13 and fancy a new sewing pattern or 1 metre of beautiful fabric, then visit the Sewbox.co.uk site and decide which item you'd like to be in the running for. Then leave a comment on this blog post saying if you would like to win prize option 1 or 2, PLUS a link to the item you'd like to receive PLUS a way for me to contact you if you are successful (i.e. if I can't find your email address within two clicks of my mouse, leave your email address in the body of the comment). Email addresses will not be used for anything other than contacting you if you win this giveaway.

Make sure you have commented by midnight GMT on Wednesday 8th May to enter. Please choose one prize option only and please only enter the giveaway once. Multiple entries will be discounted. The following day (Thursday 9th May) I will use a random number generator to select one winner for a sewing pattern and one winner for 1 metre of fabric and contact them to get their postal addresses to forward on to Sewbox.co.uk so they can send out the prizes.

Good luck and Happy MMM'13!!!

Tuesday, 30 April 2013

Me-Made-May'13: The Record Breaking Challenge starts TOMORROW!!!!!!!


I don't know about you, but I am EXCITED!!!! So many former participants have amped up their pledges ready to flash their me-mades in new and interesting ways, plus HEAPS of first-timers new to the party are about to show us their unique take on handmade style. Honestly, what's not to be excited about?!

It's pretty impossible to give you an exact number of participants of MMMay'13 as some of the 440+ comments on the sign up post are duplicates or people commenting but not actually signing up. But hot DAMN that's still a LOT of people signing up! By comparison, last year's MMMay'12 sign up post received 290 comments. Plus there are more members of this year's challenge's Flickr group than ever before as well (MMM'13's Flickr group currently has over +100 more than MMM'12's!)! It's going to be one hell of a self-stitched fest.

It's so wonderful to see this (dare I say?) movement growing, and doing so organically. It shows that increasing numbers of people genuinely want to get a better relationship with handmade things, to bring them into their everyday lives rather than relying solely on mass-manufactured items. As participants, we are all stepping away from the prescribed formulae of consumption that benefits the large global corporations and their share holders that own most clothing retailers yet is so detrimental to the workers making that clothing and the shoppers who find that quality is consistently being sacrificed for profit. Instead we have discovered a more positive and authentic route of making our clothes ourselves. We are about to embark on a whole month of celebrating these facts! ENJOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sunday, 28 April 2013

African Wax Fabric Washi Dress


Round these parts the mild-maternity sewing is rapidly turning into mid-maternity sewing as I have now been growing a human inside me for 18 weeks (18 weeks as in 2 weeks away from half way!). 

Pattern, Sizing and Changes: 

One of the patterns I included in the mild-maternity sewing post that I knew I would definitely have a go at was the Washi Dress pattern by Made By Rae (pictured below). 

Source: made-by-rae.com via Zoe on Pinterest

I used a straight-up size M as the bottom area where I'd potentially widen a pattern is already very loose on this style. The only change I made to the pattern was to adjust the seam allowances to 1cm (3/8") or 1.5cms (5/8") before cutting the pattern out, rather than trying to get my head round sewing with the 1/2" or 1/4" seam allowances that had been allocated which I'm not used to. 

The pattern was a joy to sew. The only change I made was to zig zag strips of 1/4" elastic along the back (pictured below) rather than using shirring elastic as the pattern instructions prescribed. I did this for two reasons, 1) I already had a whole load of 1/4" elastic, and 2) I hate using shirring elastic.


Fabric Choice:

My fabric choice is A) awesome, and b) inspired. I used the second half of the batch of African wax fabric my friend Anna bought back from her honeymoon in Ghana. The eagle-eyed of you will recognise that I used the rest of the fabric for my Simplicity 2444 dress. It's such a lovely weight of cotton, stiff enough to make the most of a pattern's clean lines (like the neckline shaping and front pleats on this style), but soft enough not to need ironing every five seconds. Well, that's all for this fabric now, it's been busted right out of my stash. 


Conclusion:

I love this Washi dress! I can see at least one more garment using this pattern as a basis on my sewing-horizons. I've worn it outside once so far, but unfortunately I didn't get a photo of me wearing actually wearing it so you'll have to trust that it looks ace until MMM'13 when I'll probably be rocking it with annoying frequency (weather permitting). 

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