Simplicity Autumn/Winter 1958

So back in July we had a group flick through my copy of the 1958 Spring/Summer Simplicity catalogue. Back in July, my main (sewing) concern seemed to be whether or not my arse is too big for playsuits. Four months later, the season where I wear all my clothes at once is fast approaching. Each Autumn (AKA, Fall) I endeavour that this approaching Winter will be the one where I figure out how to dress warmly AND stylishly. And then I get so cold that I pile everything on top of each other again and jettison that all sense of style as usual until April. Now we are in Autumn, and so far I flatter myself that I've been dressing most cohesively (for me) and with a retro flavour whilst out and about. Can even a scrap of this continue into Winter? Let's see how sexy home-sewers in 1958 rocked the chilly-season and look for clues of how to implement awesome retro elements whilst keeping toasty...

Let's start with a closer look at the incredible coat pictured on the front cover. I'm not entirely convinced by the starched trapeze-line of the coat's skirt part, but the gathered bust (who knew that was possible in thick wool?!), Peter Pan collar, grown-on 3/4 sleeves, self-covered buttons and self-bow detail and all making me feel a little faint. Those are basically all my favourite garment details, and here they are all piled on to the same garment. Yet somehow it doesn't look too cluttered or over-designed. Maybes this means I can be a bit more adventurous when conjuring up style ideas for potential garments. Maybes more is actually more!

Want. Want. Want. Want. etc etc... If you can look past the inherent sexism, racism, homophobia and the rest of it, the 1950's really were the days, weren't they?! When buttons like those pictured above were available in every city. As these illustrated laydeez are showing us, simple fuss-free garments provide the perfect canvas for successful fancy button-usage. I have a some fantastic buttons of this ilk in my stash, but I tend to have only one or maybe three of any kind. Need to spend some time figuring out how I can incorporate them into garments. Has anyone designed and made a garment, the initial starting point of which was the buttons, rather than the fabric or the pattern? I may try that as an experiment.

Confession time: I regularly, and for many years, have had a recurring day-dream about waking up in the 1950's and immediately go fabric shopping and get seriously decent quantities of incredible prints in their wild colours before time made them fade. But then I freak myself out with the possibility that, having bought the fabric, I am unable to leave the 1950's and get stuck there. The day-dream always stops at this point, but I guess I would go and try to convince my nan and grandad to let me live with them, and hang out with my mum even though she's only eight. Anyway, the fabric of this coat would definately be in the pile I'd buy. I'm surprised to see a coat in such a print actually: I thought that type of print would be reserved for furnishings, or cotton day dresses. Outerwear really doesn't need to be plain and boring. That double collar is a thing of wonder too, isn't it? Makes my mind reel with construction questions!

I know I spent a fair bit of time perving over boxy little jackets such as this whilst checking out the Spring/Summer catalogue, but this is such a beaut, it needed to be included in the Autumn/Winter highlights. I've long been a fan of the simple patch pocket, I added them onto my yellow jacket and my more recent Captain jacket, but I don't recall adding buttons to them as well. The gold buttons are a bit like my Captain jacket's though, aren't they?

This lovely lady is teaching us that you can go out on the razzle whilst keeping relatively warm. Who needs heaps of exposed flesh to look attractive? A well-fitting bodice in lovely fabric with a couple of well-considered details (like the self-bow here, how many have we seen in this catalogue now?) and accessories, and you can look really special. This dress above is inspiring me to try making a wiggle dress with 3/4 sleeves (like Evie's) and bow detail (like Casey's). Not that I need another 'going out' dress, but maybes if the right fabric comes along. I'd like to think I'd wear such a dress in the daytime, but I know that would never happen.

Um, HOW hot is that silver fox she's hanging with?! Agh! I can hardly take it. He's like Roger Stirling and Don Draper all rolled into one. Mmmm.... Oh wait, there's a dress in this picture too! Oh, and it has an amazing scallop neckline, elegant grown-on sleeves and a well-propertioned contrast bow detail. No wonder he's sticking around.

One thing I noticed about this catalogue is how many of the designs have features like Peter Pan collars and statement bows that many people today might consider trends for younger women and girls, but are worn by grown women in these images (as indicated my the dashing gentlemen accompanying them, who are definately not their dads!). I find that really interesting. So many of the styles prescribed for teenagers and 'sub-teens' during the 1950's effectively made them look like mini-adults. Yet here there is almost the reverse. Another thing is, it doesn't look properly cold in these images does it?! Did women really wear 3/4 sleeved coats and little gloves with inches of bare wrist-flesh during the coldest months? And fine sheer tights? Did they stay indoors between November and April? I wish I had that option, I'd get an awful lot of sewing done!

A Meeting of Minds: UK Discussion-Forum Needs YOU!

Exciting announcement time!! Currently underway are plans for an awesome creative meet-up, the like of which may never have been witnessed in the UK before! And we need YOU to help make it the most fantastic, useful, engaging, thought-provoking, joy-inducing event it can be….

Tilly and I are planning to organise a discussion forum for people who make their own clothes. The online creative community is such an enriching and wonderful entity, but sometimes it’s good to talk face-to-face. We’ve loved chatting to people at the IRL sewing meet-ups that we’ve attended, but it can be difficult to discuss anything in depth when there is lovely fabric competing for our attention!

What would happen if the creative clothing DIY community in UK had the opportunity to meet en masse to talk? What would come from being able to have more in-depth discussions over a participant-directed range of topics and a larger scale than previous crafting meet-ups have achieved? Let’s find out!

Tilly and I are passionate about creating an event that is as democratic and user-led as possible. We are in the early stages of discussion about how to arrange and organise this, but we are certain that everybody should get the opportunity to shape the content of the discussion/s by submitting topics and everybody will get an opportunity to contribute to those discussions once underway. So, in this spirit, now is the perfect time to ask you for your input...

When will it be?
Spring 2012, date TBC, but probably a Saturday day time.

Where will it be?
London. We’re not trying to be metro-centric, it's just the easiest place to get to for most people.

Who is it aimed at?
Anyone who makes their own clothes - sewers, knitters, crocheters, refashioners... You don’t have to have to be a blogger or even read blogs regularly, but topics on blogging may feature.

How much will it cost to attend?
We're aiming to make it free to attend, although can't promise anything. We've got a few ideas about venues and potential sponsors, but if you have any thoughts or contacts we'd love to know.

Who will the speakers be?
You! Everyone! The idea behind the event is to involve everyone in the discussion, to share ideas as a group, rather than have "expert" panellists.

What will the topics of discussion be?
What do you want to discuss? We'd like you to help programme the event. Tell us what you want to discuss, and we'll pick the most popular issues. Just as some ideas to get you thinking, topics could include:
- What role does sewing/knitting play in your life?
- Is making your own clothes a passing trend or here to stay?
- What impact does making your own clothes have on the world?
- What draws you to read a blog/blog post?
- What's the future, where do you want this movement to go?

Will I get to learn about hemming techniques, bound buttonholes etc
No. This won't be a practical workshop, it will be all about thinking, talking, discussing.

Sounds like a genius idea! How can I help make this happen?
Why thank you! Please tell us:
1) Whether you think you'll attend, so we can get an idea of numbers for venues;
2) What burning issues you would like to discuss (remember: this is not about practical techniques);
3) If you have any genius ideas about venues, sponsors, anything else we may not have thought of that would make this event amazing...

Looking forward to reading your thoughts!

Zoe + Tilly xxx

Poker Top!

An uncharacteristically short blog post from me today for two reasons: A) there isn't very much to tell you about this recent creation, and B) it's my birthday so I've got better things to be doing than spending ages staring at my laptop.

Seeing as how much I love my leopard collar batwing top, you couldn't be declared a genius for predicting that I'd make another top along the same lines. For this top I used the same pattern but gave it a slash neck, akin to the batwing dress I made for September's installment of the Poetry and Clothing project. This awesome printed fabric had been in my stash for about a month before I figured out this was to be its destiny. It's a sample length from a fabric printing company and I'm not sure it has been been finished properly as it's the wierdest, floppiest fabric that will get all mis-shapen if you so much as turn your back. Needless to say it was a 'challenge' to sew. Goodness knows what's going to happen when I wash this garment. It should be ok with lots of gentle coaxing back to shape with a warm iron.

I've already got a few wears from this top, the fabric was free and the whole thing was very quick to make, so if it does get mis-shapen beyond wearability, I won't be too upset. The star that shines half as long, shines twice as bright! I just have to make sure I wear this top to a poker game before meets its end...

Sew Over It

The recent explosion of sewing classes and sewing cafes is an interesting phenomenon. I'm pleased to see a growing trend towards a DIY mentality and the increased desire to learn the skills our grandmothers relied on (if that is what this represents). I thought that maybe I could pick up a sewing-teaching gig at one of these places if I ever lost my job, and I enjoy looking at cute buttons and trims that they often sell as much as the next sewer, but I haven't really kept a close eye on the proliferation of these establishments.

However, I have recently been doing a bit of research because I've been brewing a plan to do a bit of sewing teaching in a different kind of environment and heard about Sew Over It through my enquiries. Based in Clapham, London, it seems to provide the best range of classes that I've seen, including mini-courses of around two hours focussing on specific skills like making button holes or inserting zips. I could see those being really useful for beginner-sewers who want to flesh out their skill-set without having to sign-up to make an entire blouse or skirt making course. They also run a mens' survival sewing class, which is SUCH a great idea. Plus, Sew Over It offers a drop-in option where you can use the space and machinery for £5 an hour and includes free tea and coffee. This is how I spent a chunk of last Sunday.

Normally, I wouldn't usually be interested in forking out to use a sewing space when I'm lucky enough to have that at work and home, but I was heading up to London to see Michelle (pictured above) and we've never really sewn/crafted together before AND she may be moving to that area and was pleased for the opportunity to explore a little more, so it all kind of made sense to go and pay Sew Over It a visit.

It is a nice place. It is very clean and pretty with lots of light. The downstairs area was being used for a class so we stayed upstairs which serves as the cafe, shop and drop-in sewing area. All around were examples of the garments and products that you can learn to make in their classes, or make at home using their pre-prepared kits and packs. IMO, the decor and feel of the place is pretty representative of the dominant aesthetic of current mainstream craft culture (Amy Bulter prints, teapots, cupcakes, you know). Which is fine. It's very feminine, cute and no-doubt inviting to many. But I do fear that this look puts off a some people who don't want to make things that are very girlie in style. And I'd be surprised if many guys turn up for their mens' survival sewing class and feel entirely comfortable sitting there surrounded by so much pink!This gripe isn't specific to Sew Over It: I'm just concerned how much experimentation and freedom to make mistakes you can feel in such a cute and pristine environment. I'm also worried that the message about using these skills to preserve your existing clothes and live more sustainably isn't really being put across when everything on display and for sale is brand new. They do offer a customisation class, but neatly sell 'customisation packs' with new lace embellishments and strings of pearls.

So, did I buy?! Yep. No I don't buy new fabric, but I do indulge in new patterns and notions from time to time. Sew Over It stock a decent selection of the newer Colette Patterns. I bought the Violet blouse pattern for Michelle for Christmas (don't worry about her reading this, she knows!) and the Clover trousers for myself. I've been eyeing this pattern up on the internet for a while, but with shipping from the US to UK, it was pricier than I could justify so I treated myself when I saw it for sale without the postage. And these leopard buttons! They are shell and so awesome that I'm sure they'd make the plainest garment special. I think I'll save them for when a thrifted solid colour cardigan comes my way and needs jazzing up.

So, what about you? Have you spent time in any sewing cafes? What was your overall experience? What did you like about it?

Poetry and Clothing Project: September

One of the things I really like about this Poetry and Clothing project, is that it gives me a reason to create garments that aren't necessarily something I'd wear myself. You could say I am fairly limited in what I personally wear: generally I like a retro 50's/60's silhouette, prefer certain colours (navy, red, black, mustard), and have quite a low tolerance to garments without anchors. So making garments for other people, in this case my friend Harriet, is a good excuse for me to bring life to different ideas. It's another way for me to express myself, to have a kind of visual conversation about what I feel.

September's P&C garment is just such a piece. I'm really pleased with this batwing dress. The style is really cool: it's loose and casual yet slinky. The fabric is a jersey, super soft, very fine and ever-so-slightly sheer, so the overall effect is subtley sexy without being revealing. You could also get a fair bit of trans-season wear from it with wool tights and boots when Autumn comes 'a knocking. However, I can't take all the credit for the design: my boss developed a batwing top pattern inspired by an H&M garment she saw. Then I refined it a little and elongated it into a dress version.

As you can see, the fullness of the batwing is gathered into the sleeve sections. The whole thing was stitched together with an overlocker using really fine jersey needles in about 15mins. I then used a normal flatlock machine to turn up the hem and sleeve edges.

I also found a bit of tomato red poly/cotton twill from goodness-knows-when in my stash. I'd been messing around with the pattern that I made my navy capri's from, so thought I'd make Harriet a pair in red. Now, this was always going to be a long shot, making well-fitting trousers for someone who's in another country isn't the easiest task (spoiler alert: they didn't fit, but she's going to find a suitable recipient).

And on to the poetry side of the bargain. This one was written about the top I made and sent in August. Now, apparantly Harriet has recently developed a skin sensitivity to some synthetic fabrics, and unfortunately that includes whatever the hell that fabric is I used for her August top. Around that time, she was host to a French cyclist called Sylvie who was making a stop in Barcelona whilst on her way down to Morocco. After a long time spent cycling around, Sylvie was in need of a bit of freshen up and make over, so Harriet passed on a few garments she could no longer wear, including this top which Sylvie apparantly totally loves. She has promised to take a photo of herself wearing it when she reaches Morocco! It's sad that Harriet lost out on a top she thought was cute, but it's great a happy owner was found. I really love the idea of putting beautiful lovingly made garments out there for inspirational people to enjoy as they push boundaries and have an adventure!


Sylvie (August)

What makes one itch
makes two happy
we spent three days
talking about how two wheels
are better than four
scratching each other's itches.
She was so small
fit into five-year-old clothes.
She left on the 6th September
at seven in the morning
and before she left, we ate
cereal with dried fruits for breakfast.
At 9am I thought of her,
wearing a new top, then
wrapped inside her bivouac tent

And I will count the days that I have lost
against the ones that she will gain
and each time I look insdie
my moth-eaten wardrobe, I will imagine
all those bird-like white shapes
flying over a sea of mint green
and I am certain
that when I see her again
she will have grown


I'm sure it doesn't need to be said, but I LOVE this poem and I love this particular month in the project. It was an unexpected twist, the addition of another garment recipient, one who clearly left her mark. I really hope she does take that photo and sends it to us.

GIVEAWAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Vintage Vogue Winter Coat Pattern

So, recently I've been chatting on about making outerwear to deal with the fast-approaching chilly-season. I made myself a little lined navy wool jacket, entitled Captain jacket, which I've already worn at least six times (thus proving my theory that it's totally worth the extra effort outerwear requires to sew for the extra wears you get out of them).

That little jacket brings my self-stitched outerwear total up to four: the yellow curtain jacket (unlined), the infamous leopard coat, Captain jacket (aforementioned) and the warmest of all, my midnight blue wool Winter coat. These garments all satisfy different needs in terms of weather and outfit combos, but I still have plans to make one or two more outerwear garments that I hope will last me several years.

In an attempt to create good karma for myself for my next two outwear garment projects, I am making a sacrifice to the gods of sewing. I am offering up the pattern I used for my wool coat last Winter. I had the idea to do this a few weeks ago, and Camelias and Crinolines excellent post recently reminded me how I feel about owning stuff (in particular, vintage sewing patterns) that I'm not going to use again that others could be enjoying instead so I have eventually got my arse in gear to rig up this giveaway.

If you like the look of this coat pattern you may need to over-look my moaning about how complex the construction of this garment was. I'm not going to lie to you, making this coat was a bit of a beast in terms of the persistance required, but I'm not the most patient of sewers and I must admit the outcome really was worth it.

So. This giveaway is for Vogue 7448 (undated but probably from around 1970) in Size 12 (Bust 34", Waist 36"). It is in used but good condition. I cut the pattern at the shortest length but carefully numbered and retained the lower sections so they can easily be stuck back on if you wish to make the longer versions. I only want to give this pattern to someone who will actually USE this it, so if you would like to enter, leave a comment below which will convince me that you actually would make this coat. Bonus points to the comments which make me laugh. I don't care if you live in Outer-Mongolia (what's the postage rate to send stuff there anyway?), this giveaway is open to all with no expense required. But LEAVE ME YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS in the comment unless I can find your email address within two mouse-clicks or less. I'm not trawling the internets to seek you out. The end date for this giveaway is midnight (GMT) Sunday 30th October. Good luck, sewers! xxx

Jogging top!

What?! You didn't think I was the type to go jogging?! How dare you! I'll have you know that I am very much the type who kind of sometimes makes themselves feel guilty enough to find some old stretchy clothes and go for a jog. In fact, maybes you recall, that one of my aims for the duration of Self-Stitched-September '11 was to make myself at least one jogging appropriate garment and give it a test run before the end of the month. FAIL. I did start this jogging top during September, but the weather was so warm that I wouldn't have been able to wear something with long sleeves to go jogging before the month was up so I didn't see the point in rushing to get it done. I didn't want to make something with short sleeves, as I already have a couple of those to wear for jogging, hence making a variation that I don't already have.

But now it is finished. It's a basic long-sleeved T-shirt made from a pattern I developed yonks ago by tracing the shape of a favourite old T-shirt to get the right fit for the body, then using one of the patterns in Sew U: Home Stretch for the sleeve head and armhole shapes. If you are a stretch/jersey fabric virgin but fancy giving it a go, you really could do worse than get yourself a copy of that book, BTW (I'll pick up my commission later, Wendy!).

The most interesting feature of this top is the little pocket I made on the sleeve for my MP3 player. If I'm jogging during the summer (i.e. without a hoodie on) I rarely take my MP3 player out with me because I don't have anywhere to wedge it as I'm going along. I could of course make one of those arm strap MP3 holders, but A) I'm not too sure where I'd start, and B) my MP3 is really little and light, nothing like a big heavy i-pod, so a pocket on my garment would be more than adequate and far easier to construct.

This little pocket didn't require much effort. It's a bit bigger than the MP3 player (obviously) with a button hole inside it so I can thread the headphone wires through and up to the neck hole to keep the wires from getting in my way when I jog. I can't claim the button hole idea as my own, my boss came up with that stroke of genius.

The fabric is from the streetwear company Howies who, if I've got this right, are now owned by Timberland. Timberland have a relationship with Traid, the charity I work for, and often donate their garment samples and seconds for resale and de/reconstruction. We got sent rolls and rolls of this fabric in three colour ways to make into stuff for our range, TRAIDremade. The other two colour ways were vile so we sent those to be recycled. Meanwhile we have about 40 metres of this stuff! We created a fair few garments for the range out of it, but there's only so many garments you can make from exactly the same fabric and manage to make them look different. So now I am making personal projects from this stuff: vests, pants, baby trousers, this jogging top...... I may make some pyjamas too. I think the print is quite cute. And if you substitute the TV for a laptop, which the fabric is telling me to switch off in favour of donning my running shoes, I can see some relevance!

Overall, it's a pretty good top that I hope will serve me well when the weather is too chilly for going out in short sleeves but too cold for a hoodie, OR when it's so chilly I need a long-sleeved top AND a hoodie. Either way, I'm ready. I must admit, the sleeves are a bit short and the neck hole could be a little wider, but neither would prevent me from enjoying wearing this top. And no, I haven't tested it yet. I will at the weekend, promise!