A-Team Skirts Live Again

I've got a couple of things to show you, if you'll permit me. Remember the skirt above (the creation of which I documented here)? Well, in the excitement of planning, fabric and fabulousness, I pushed to the back of my mind the niggling feeling that the lace panels wouldn't hold up too well to laundering. I tried to convince myself everything would be fine if I handwashed it when laundering time came. It didn't get that far. The lace sections started to rip just through WEARING the damn thing. But still I continued to wear it until they got so raggedly that my boy basically suggested I shouldn't go out the house looking like that! THAT'S how much I loved that skirt.

Well, I eventually unpicked the lace, recustomised it and it lives again!:

This reincarnation features leather bird silhouettes hand-appliquéd on a ribbon 'wire'. I developed this decorative effect when my obsession with bird images was still in it's infancy. I made a grey and red version, both of which have miraculously ended up in my best friend's wardrobe. Strangely enough I never had a version myself until now.


Here's another cheeky twill A-line skirt I whipped up a month or so ago:

Last Spring we went on the miniest of breaks to Girona and chanced upon a Marimekko shop. I sated my desire for their squillion-euros-a-metre fabrics by buying a few little sample pieces that were €1 each. I decided to utilise one of them by creating these 'bubbles' which I machine-appliquéd on the front and back panels. Rare 'work in progress' pap:

I'm trying to come up with interesting ways to add contrast pattern to otherwise plain garments. I think this technique would work well for refashioning and enlivening existing garments, as well as for new creations. I'm going to leave skirts alone for a while now and focus my attentions elsewhere. Keep posted....

Celebrate Good Shorts, Come on!

Yesterday played host to two very exciting occurences which require documentation:

Number one:

I received a copy of the Aussie-based and produced Mixtape zine (issue 10) which, incidentally, includes a little piece written by ME! Woo hoooooo! That's right, I'm published in Mixtape which makes me extremely happy. Not only is it a beautifully designed and thoroughly interesting little zine, it's manifesto to proliferate, indulge and encourage DIY culture, making stuff and eco-mindedness makes it EXACTLY the type of thing I want to get behind. Or in, in this case. The piece they included was this little piece entitled 'The Return of the Blouse' I shared here back in May. And as if I needed another reason to smile my face off, they included a super-cute little badge that says 'I write for Mixtape', much like the virtual button on the side panel here.

Number two:

I finished making a pair of Burdastyle's Ruby shorts. As a rule, I don't wear shorts and wasn't fully convinced that my curvy frame would carry them off. But hot damn! They look good:

Apologies for the rubbish self-portraits-in-the-bathroom, my official photographer is away on family visiting duties and I got too excited to wait until I found someone else to pap me. Plus, I know what your thinking: 'Umm, road test Zoe! Jeez!'. Sorry but times is just too heady round here at the mo, I will give them a thorough testing tomorrow, promise.

I used a nice navy twill with a good stretch content, which I deployed to help off-set any potential fit/sizing issues, but I'm really pleased with the final fit and would risk making these in a non-stretch. All in all, I found the pattern very good, though I omitted the time consuming front jet pocket, avoided the strange add-on belt thingy, and replaced their back pocket scenerio with my preferred patch pocket shape with rounded corners. I constructed the side button fastening sections with as much patience as I could muster, and I'm really pleased with the outcome. For the life of me I couldn't figure out their turn-ups instructions, so I re-enacted a turn-up construction method a sample machinist I used to work with once showed me. It's a fantastic method, it traps in the bottom edge into the faux-turn, making a really clean and professional finish. Remind me to show you some time...

The buttons are some fabric covered ones found in my stash. They were just the right size and shape, as well as the correct quantity. I think they look just right, cute but not too kiddy, for these sailor style closures.

I'm pretty much having to physically retrain myself from immediately making another pair, (they would be red, FYI), but I definately have plans to extend the leg and make a couple of different versions as capris, trousers and/or jeans. Aside from a sweet, retro-y feel, these closures have to inmeasurable benefit of allowing the makery of shorts, trousers and jeans without having to construct a fly-front, something I would cross continents barefoot to avoid. I just don't think fly-fronts are worth it, as in my experience, they take up equal construction time as the whole of the rest of the processes and cutting out put together. I just don't have that kind of time! I'm already nearly 30! But nearly 30 with some greats shorts in which to enjoy my inclusion in Mixtape!

Two is the Magic Number

If you're in the UK at the moment and thinking about hitting the charity shops sometime soon, I wouldn't bother. My recent visit has left the charity shops of the southern counties a little light on stock. Here's a sampler of my acquisions, all purchased for £2 a pop! Apologies for the night shots, I've gone nocturnal until further notice (too hot).

BIG BAG.

Very nice sandals (technically bought from a vendor on Brick Lane, rather than a charity shop, but second-hand nevertheless. Actually I think she was Spanish, selling her stash before leaving London.) A thoroughly amazing day was had around the Spitalfields/Brick Lane stomping ground with my home-lady Michelle.

Primark retro-print cotton top, which is excellent for the frankly excessive Barcelona summer heat. Now, Primark are pretty much at the top of my list of Most Hated Mass-Manufacturers, however, as a former addict, I do at times feel the pull towards their often quite nice designs. So it's good to be able to peruse their wares later down the foodchain in the charity shops, with the guilt of direct purchase eliminated.

I did replace the missing decorative button with this beautiful vintage one from my stash.

Let's just check how it works in a bar (accessorised out of shot with a caipirinha):

I would just like to take this opportunity to thank my folks, for their encouragement in the development of my charity shopping skills from a young age, and whom have always believed in my abilities.

Dressing for Dinner

Back in Victorian times, it was common for peops of the middle and upper class persuasion to change their garms a bunch of times throughout the day, particularly for having dinner. The middle classes largely knocked this custom on the head after the onset of the First World War, what with there being far more important things going on. *

These days, I am very thankful to report, our menfolk seem to be relatively safe. So maybe we should once again think about introducing a bit more celebration and ritual into our lives and wardrobes. I'm a big fan of 'getting done up' for going out for a meal, but what I'm proposing is REALLY getting dressed to go for a meal, eg:

This woman is SO going out for some sushi! Hell yes she is, and I want to join her, she looks like a right laugh. But what if you just fancy a takeaway? It's ok, I've thought about this!:

I think that garments are a great way to add some fun to your day to day, so if you're planning on spending a day whipping up some magic in the kitchen, maybe you should get sewing first. Those crazy 50's fabric designers were all over this tip back in the day:

And:

Of course, cocktail o'clock may also require it's own dress:

So that's home cooking, takeaways, sushi and drinks covered (and this site can provide you with fabric of pretty much every ingredient you can think of). But what if you're just heading out to eat with no specific food genre in mind? Or your heading over to a friends for dinner and don't want to make any assumptions? It's ok! Fashion yourself an all-angles-covered garm from this!

I reckon an Anda dress would be your best bet (plenty of room round the belly!)

* Historical 'facts' interpretted by Zoe

Pants. Essential Indulgences.

Time for a quick inventory. Mass manufactured things to wear bought in 2009 so far: one three-pack of pants. Not bad, eh? (But I can't promise hand-on-heart that I won't own some more shoes before the year is out.) And I wouldn't have bought those if my fashion-papping work hadn't of taken me into the underwear shop Oysho, leading to my exposure to their irresistably cute pants selection.

I have been attempting to avoid mass-manufactured clothing, and doing pretty well at it, for almost two and a half years now. Throughout this period, my motivations for doing so have multiplied, developed and evolved. No, I don't think what I am doing is going to make any direct impact on mass-manufacturings' socially and environmentally unsound practises, I'm not a dumb-ass! I doubt Primark, Topshop, Bershka and the rest, or more specifically the huge conglomerates which own them, are quaking in fear as the news of my (in)actions reaches them (which it inevitably will!).

But I do believe that an effect has been, and will continue to be, created by what I'm (not) doing. Talking and writing about my choices and role in this live experiment is hopefully, in some immeasurable way, pushing towards change. I try to back up this debate by on-and-off producing handmade alternatives to mass-manufactured garments and accessories and, ultimately, living in a way that I can justify to myself. But let me clarify, the changes I feel are required must occur both in mass-manufacturings' methods and impact, as well as society's relationships towards consumption, ownership and waste. Which is a circuitous route to get back to talking about pants.

I must confess that I bought those pants not because I needed some new pants, but because they were pretty (little hearts, clubs, diamonds and spades on them, my inner 'casino imagery' junkie was aroused). I feel guilty enough to not let that happen again for some time, but it is unlikely that I won't NEED new pants at some point in the future. What to do? Etsy had an awswer:

Handmade pants! The beauties above (by seller 'Five is for Riches') are so up my street, the postman keeps accidentally delivering me their post.

Or what about something a little more burlesque?!:However, we all know that give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day, teach him how to fish and he'll eat forever. So in addition to the Swallow pants, another etsy purchase I'm seriously considering is this:


A knicker making kit/pattern, which was used to create the brown pants from a recycled T-shirt. I'm definately drawn to this whole scenerio, not least because the kits contains these:

Alternatively, one could download the Cheeky Panties pattern from Burdastyle, as created and uploaded by EmilyKate, to create winners like these: Now my homegirls Hazza and Michelle have been on the homemade pant-making tip for some time. Maybe it's time to put my money where my, um, mouth is (!).

From Triumphs to Children's Scissors

Hang on! Before you get all 'I thought from now on we were going to see all new creations in action?!' and go and check out someone elses blog, give me the chance to explain. I'll admit, it looks hot on the mannequin, but despite appearences, this recent bane of my sewing life is unwearble, at least at the moment.

It began life as a fortuitous find. On the way to (evil) Ikea, we perchanced upon one of the rare-as-a-unicorn charity shops here in bcn, and what-do-you-know? They were having a sale: everything one euro! (I apologise if you are able to read Catalan and you feel I've just insulted your linguistic skils). The shop must have scooped up some surplus stock from somewhere, resulting in an abundance of totally unused 1970's mens clothing. Now this got my heart racing as, although most was of limited appeal, you NEVER see fresh vintage in charity shops in the UK these days. The shop assistants and the public are just too clued up and know they can make more cash selling it elsewhere, or too stupid and it ends up in the bin (don't even think about it, it'll give you nightmares).

So anyway, I picked up this tasty box-fresh shirt, and rocked up to Ikea (I know I know, I was only there for the herring) and found some complimentary blue cotton for €2 a metre. A plan was hatched, and the application of the Burdastyle 'Coffee Date Dress' pattern ensued.

Agh!!!!!!! Now, I don't really want to speak ill of this pattern, as a very generous member of Burdastyle drafted it herself and took the time to grade it and upload for other members. As usual, my impatience prevented me from making a toile first, so when the flaws in fit began to reveal themselves like an unrolling carpet, I ended up pretty much restitching every seam at least once.

Now, it could be argued that it's my body's fault for not being the correct shape, but despite it's various flaws, my figure does have pretty standard proportions. I'll give it that. The Coffee Date Dress pattern was initially designed for petite sizes, but due to popular demand the designer graded it to 'normal' sizes. I may be alone in saying this but however I think many of the issues of proportion that such an endeavour raises were not properly addressed. All I'm sayin. For example, the bust point ended up way too high, and the waistline (which my fabric combo really emphasised) was neither waisted nor empire line, resulting in my fashioning an extra waist band, which in turn threw the garment's balance off entirely. Then I noticed the back neck gapped in a bizarre way, which I corrected with darts which then effected the facings etc, etc, etc, blah, blah...

Well, the beauty of the fabric combo forced me to persevere, until I finshed the damn thing and took it on holiday with me to Sevilla for it's debut. Well, to add insult to injury, I struggled into the (admittedly) slightly too tight dress, ready to go out to dinner (that'll help!) and asked my boyfriend to zip me in. Which is when the zip broke. And noone had any scissors so we had to go to the hotel reception and borrow, what looked to be, childrens craft scissors in order to facilitate my release!

Well, I was unable to even look at the stupid thing for over a month, but eventually purchased and fitted a new zip, making it complete again. Now however, I've decided when I put it on it looks like I've stolen a small child's party dress. Which as a concept I'm not entire against. But it ain't going to happen, at least until my (stressful and intense month of work so I can have the rest of the summer off's) belly has diminished.

There's probably some lessons to learn in amongst all this, but with only a week left of the summer school, right now learning is something I want to put towards the back of my mind for a while!

Out in the Field

Perhaps I have been too hasty. Maybe I have been approaching the reviews of my home-made garments incorrectly. Previously, not always but often, I have tended to finish the hem, pop the garm on me or the mannequin and get some paps done, followed by a (witty and informative) blog post when I get round to it a few days later.

Well, it has come to my attention that very possibly my evaluations of my creations would be much more authentic and insightful after having worn it several times whilst getting thoroughly, eye-wateringly wrecked on cocktails/cava/wine/nan-juice. Thus, I should glean a far greater empathy for the garment, and be more fully aware of it's strengths and failings as a piece from the wardrobe of a modern woman, going about her business:

For this post I can assure that the new criteria was definately met. This cheeky little top was crafted from a beautiful piece of vintage fabric I picked up for $1.99 in a thrift store in the Mission district of San Francisco a couple of years ago. It had been hanging around teasing me with it's potential until I declared 'Enough!' and fashioned a simple top based on this awesome 1968 Simplicity dress pattern I swiped off of eBay. Because of the level of beauty, and limited dimensions of the fabric, I did what I rarely do when it comes to the early stages of garment creation: I took my time and applied patience.

Using patterned fabric, I think, requires a bit of a balancing act. You want to give the print a chance to bask in it's full glory, unencumbered by an overly complex style. But on the flipside, you don't want to be a walking canvas with a dull shaped garment (with the notable exception of basic A-line skirts). I attempted to balance the tightrope by drafting a Peter Pan collar (using a tutorial somewhere to be found on Wiksten Made).

A happy coincidence, it looks rockin with the PLAIN navy skirt I made, previously featured here.

So the field test revealed that, generally it is a success. A couple of minor flaws: the zip could have been a bit longer for ease of getting it on and off, the shoulder line stops a bit short which exposes unnecessary bra-strappage, and (for reasons that are beyond me) one side of the collar likes to flap up whilst walking outside (best worn sitting down inside then).

I hope the pictorial evidence and reported experience gives a more thorough review. In future I will endeavour to continue in this vein. I have corrected my behaviour and moved away from such errors. It won't happen again. Sorry.