My Ivy (Karen) Pinafore

Today I've got another 'look what I made!' blog post for you because I have been sewing A LOT recently. The weather has been horrendous for what feels like months, and my response has been to really hunker down and get my sew-on. I've also made a commitment to myself to steadily turn the contents of my fabric stash into fabulous, wearable garments, but I'll blog more about that soon. In the meantime, look what I made!

Pattern: 

I've had my eye on Jennifer Lauren's Ivy pinafore dress pattern since she released it about 18 months ago, but I held off from buying it immediately because of the need for breast-feeding related access. I eventually I bought it at the end of last year, and shortly afterwards I realised that I already had the perfect fabric sitting right there in my stash!

Pattern: 

I've had my eye on Jennifer Lauren's Ivy pinafore dress pattern pretty much since she released it about 18 months ago but I held off from buying it immediately due to breast-feeding restrictions. I eventually I bought it at the end of last year and a couple of months later I realised that I already had the perfect fabric sitting in my stash!

I LOVE the utilitarian vibe of a denim pinafore type garment, and Jennifer's denim version looks pure perfection to me. There's a lovely lady called Karen who takes her grandson to the Story time group at our local library that we go to every Monday, and she often wears an olive coloured pinafore that is really similar to this. As I've got to know her, aside from having fabulous style, I've discovered that Karen is awesome in many ways and I basically want to be her when I grow up. 

(image source: Jennifer Lauren Handmade)

But back to the pattern. The pattern view I prefer is a deceptively simple looking shift dress with bust darts, slight waist shaping at the CB, and a fabulous curved yoke. It's lined so it won't stick to your tights when you walk, plus the pattern also includes in-seam pockets, which I omitted in the event that I'd need to monkey around with the fit. 

First up, let me say that this that this project was really fun to make. I find the process and effect of contrast topstitching to be so satisfying. That said, it's now confession time: I didn't make a toile, which is naughty! I felt that a simple pattern such as this would be fairly simple to tweak midway through the construction if need be. According to the measurements, I fell between the size 10 and 12. I erred on the side of caution and went for the larger, however it ended up way too big. I took in the side seams by about one size, but looking at these photos I think it still looks a little on the large side. I plan to remove and reattach the buttons so the straps overlap a little more. That should raise the dress a bit and hopefully get the bust darts to sit more where they belong. Of course, that would all have been avoided if I'd just made the freaking toile that I knew I should have. 

Fabric:

I 'rescued' this length of vintage denim from a retro/vintage furniture and homeware shop near my then-home in Hove. Whilst I loved this fabric immediately, the inbetween-y too-thin-for-trousers-too-thick-for-a-top-or-dress weight confused me so it has remained in my stash for about 5 years until I figure this shift pinafore was its destiny. There was about 3m of it, but it was really narrow so I more or less used it up with this project. The fabric had a pleasing white selvedge which I managed it incorporate along the CF, but because this dress is fully lined, the selvedge is sadly hidden apart from at the very bottom by the hem. I found the buttons, which I believe are also vintage, in my stash and I have absolutely no idea where they came from or how they found their way in there. 

Thoughts:

I'm really conflicted about this project. I certainly have a lot of love for this dress; I wore it three days in a row after I finished it. If I'm honest, I don't usually enjoy wearing dresses very much, but this is sooo comfy that it could definitely be classed as covert pyjamas. But when I see these pictures, I'm questioning how well it fits and how flattering it is. I really should have read the instructions through before starting this project because I would have discovered that this has been drafted for a C-cup, which it turns out is possibly a bit full for me post-babies, and I could have done something about it on the pattern before cutting into my fabric. Now I'm looking at these pictures some more, perhaps shortening it might make it look a bit less like I borrowed it from my (imaginary)big sister. I welcome your thoughts...

But it doesn't even matter what I think about this dress because when I wore it to Story time, Karen loved it. So much so, she enquired how much such a garment would cost. Dammit! I hate having to avade a commission. But what a compliment: my muse likes it so much she'd like one for herself! Anyways, where ever I eventually fall down on this particular garment, I definitely see myself using this pattern again. Perhaps in a burgundy needle cord, but starting with the size 10. Lessons learnt.  

Cost:

Pattern: $9.09/approx. £6.50. I bought it at a Black Friday discount, normally it's $12.99/£9.30 available here. 

Fabric: £10 

Lining: £8 from C&H

Buttons: £0 (from stash)

Total: £27.30

Vintage Cord Bunny Applique Dress

Well, its quality rather quantity that you're seeing right now! I was super excited to be taking part in the KCW sewalong/challenge last week, but a couple of days in and I was struck down with the lurgy, so I only got to complete one garment. Sad times. Anyways, let me tell you about what I was able to achieve...

Fabric:

As I mentioned in my last post, I wanted to take the opportunity to make something slightly more time consuming than the quick scrap-busters I've recently been knocking out. I've got some lovely pieces of fabric that have been patiently waiting in my stash for years that aren't ear marked for any specific usage. I thought last week would be a great chance to explore the potential in a few of them. 

I'm guessing that this piece of floral printed corduroy is vintage, it really reminds me of pinafores and dungarees from the late 70's. At one point I had vague plans to make some shorts for my tiny friend Kirstin (there wasn't much of this fabric!) after she mentioned that it reminded her of her childhood, but I think I used something else in the end. It's quite thick and pretty stiff, so a pinafore dress was probably always going to be the best use for it anyhow. 

I considered making patch pockets from the leather to bring a slightly contemporary vibe to this garment, possibly using the original pattern's pocket piece as a guide. However, I know that Dolores will engage far more with a garment if it features an animal, character or shape that she recognises, so the leather pockets became leather bunny appliques. I had a lot of fun with my walking foot stitching down these bunnies, which I first secured with some blobs of copydex. I really like how the bunnies are now sitting in a field of flowers. 

Pattern:

I almost used the same pattern as the fawn pinafore dress, but I then unearthed this vintage pattern that's been in my stash for years. I bought it pretty cheaply from Snoopers Paradise in Brighton about four or five years ago, and it was originally published in 1978. I cut the size 3, and because I find some little girl dress patterns from the 50's, 60's and 70's disturbingly short, I added about 10cm to the length. Dolores is coming up to 2 and a half, and I think this dress may fit her this time next year, and maybe will continue to do so until she's nearly five! 

It was a super simple make. Aside from the length, the only other change I made was the addition of a centre back seam to make it fit on the limited quantity of fabric. The one element I'm not wild about is that I think, in hindsight, that the buttonholes on the shoulders don't sit close enough to the edge, which is making the overlaps stick out a little bit. 

Thoughts:

The combination of vintage pattern and (probably) vintage fabric along with a dash of leather detailing is making me pretty happy here. Dolores seems to love it too, but whether she still feels that way about it in a year's time remains to be seen!

Cost:

Fabric: £0 (I'm pretty sure I was given this fabric)
Lining fabric: £0 (left overs from some sampling work I did last year)
Pattern: £1.50 (I may use it once again)
Leather: £0 (from a number of little samples given to me by Claire)
Butons: £0 (from my stash but were donated to me)
Total: £1.50

I'm pleased with that. Now I just need to make sure I don't forget about it so it actually sees lots of wear to make its creation worth while. How about you? If you participated in KCW, how did you get on? I hope the lurgy didn't get you too!

Guest Post: Jen's Top 5 Sources for Secondhand Fabric

(image source: Make Do and Mendable)

Hopefully you've already 'met' Jen from Make Do and Mend-able, who is preaching to the choir round these parts with her investigations into living ethically and sustainably with an emphasis on handmade. If you haven't then I thoroughly recommend you visit to her lovely blog, and whilst you're over there, check out her fabulous Ted X talk about the year she and her family pledged to buy nothing new. Everything she is doing is so positive and relevant, and her manifesto makes me want to scream 'YES TO ALL THIS!'. If Dolores wasn't in bed asleep right now, I'd probably scream it out loud for real. Anyways...

Jen posted her Top 5 Sources for Secondhand Fabric back in May, and it was so good to read. I'd been brewing a similar blog post for a while in response to the many questions that I've received in the topic both in blog comments and at the classes I teach, but had failed to get as far as clicking the 'publish' button to date. It's something that I think is incredibly important for limiting the impact of our hobby on the environment, and thankfully Jen has allowed me to repost her original post in the hope that it may inspire more sewers to get hunting.... Thanks Jen! 

Sewing your own might seem the 'greener' option, but fabric production is a pretty resource and labour intensive business. Growing cotton uses vast amounts of water and pesticides, and has a heavy environmental impact. An easy way to still sew your own, but lessen your 'sewing footprint' is to source your fabric secondhand. Here's my Top 5 places to find secondhand fabric:

(image source: The Guardian via this post)

1. Charity Shops 

If you get lucky, charity shops will sometimes have donations of 'acutal' fabric from someone who is having a clear out. Failing that, keep your eyes peeled for old duvets and sheets-there are often fabulous retro prints, and you get TONS of fabric for your money. Also check out the clothes rails for skirts and shirts in larger sizes, as the fabric from these can be salvaged to be made into something else.

2. Vintage Shops and fairs 

No excuses are needed for a rummage around a vintage shop, but while you are, be sure to keep a beady eye out for old curtains, and again, sheets and duvets, or even tablecloths. Sometimes there will be stashes of French linens, and tea towels, which are great for home furnishings.

3. Facebook 

Have a look on the Make Do and Mend-able Pre-loved Craft Stuff group. You can post a wanted if you are looking for something in particular eg. stretch fabric, or red cord etc. There are also lots of other groups like Fabric Addicts Destash and the Vintage Fabric Addict Support Group.

4. Instagram 

Some crafters will periodically have a 'de-stash' and list their unwanted fabric on Instagram. Search using #fabricdestash or #fabricforsale. It's a bit hit and miss, but you might unearth a gem! Also follow sewers whose blogs you admire, and you never know when they might choose to destash...!

(image source: Etsy)

5. E-bay, Pre-loved, Etsy 

These are all good places to find fabric, if you are prepared to do a bit of searching. Keep your search terms as specific as you can. If you just search "fabric" you will get thousands of suggestions! If you search for "red stretch knit fabric", or "yellow polka dot cotton" you are more likely to find what you are looking for more quickly.

One word of caution, there are lots of new fabrics for sale on E-bay now, and lots of people have set up E-bay shops to sell new fabric. If you just want to avoid the new fabrics coming up in your search, be sure to check the 'Used' box under Condition, in the search terms on the left hand side.

Thank you so much, Jen! That was great to read. I have a few more points to add on this topic, so I'll revisit it again soon. So, what about you? Is sewing with secondhand fabric something you think about? Have you scored any fab secondhand fabric recently? Do you have any tips on how/where to find it?

1960's Breton Top: The Best Thing I Have Ever Sewn, Maybe

A bold title, non?! This top may not look super-exciting, but by making it, I have managed to make EXACTLY the garment I wanted in my wardrobe. So, some back story... 

You know me, I usually prefer to make/wear vaguely retro style clothing, and I've been thinking about moving in a slightly different direction from my usual inspiration points. For a couple of years now I've been inspired by looser, boxier fitting tops from the 1960's, like the garment on the right of the pattern illustration pictured below, but haven't done anything about it. Until now, that is. 

This style top looks excellent with skinny jeans and capri pants, and seeing as I already live in the former and would like to wear more of the latter, I knew this type of top would fit in with what I've already got going on. 

Pattern:

I've had Simplicity 7023 (pictured below) lurking in my stash for yonks. In fact, I can't remember when or where I bought it, but I wouldn't be surprised if eBay was involved. The overblouse design has got the right silhouette for my needs: boxy but not baggy. Plus I love the bateau neckline and extended/dropped armhole seam.  

I toyed with the idea of making a roll collar to create more of a look like this or this. But to make a garment with maximum usefulness, I knew it needed to fit easily under a cardigan, jacket or a coat so I went with the pattern's original neckline. 

I made a few modifications to the original pattern. The major change I made was to eliminate the centre back seam and fastening. I measured the neck hole on the pattern first to make sure I wouldn't have any trouble in getting it on and off, then cut the back piece on the fold instead. I also made the hem a bit wider to accommodate my hippage, plus added side splits because I really like that detail on these kinds of tops. I altered the sleeves too, but I can't remember exactly in what way, perhaps making them a bit narrower and shorter at the hem? And of course I drafted some simple patch pockets that would allow me to alter the direction of the fabric for a bit of interest. One more thing I did that turned out to be completely pointless was to drop the bust darts by about 2 cm to reflect my shoulder-to-bust point measurement.

Fabric:

This navy and white stripy, synthetic double-knit-type-stuff has been burning a hole in my stash for a few years. I've had so many ideas for it that I was kind of paralysed by indecision and it languished in there unused. When I first acquired it (I got it second hand, it could well be from around the same time as the pattern!) I was erring towards making a dress, perhaps something fit and flare like this, or more of a shift dress shape like this. Then, I started imagining spring coats and jackets, perhaps along the lines of this. Eventually reality kicked in and I figured out that I probably didn't have sufficient quantity for any of those plans, and a top would be far more practical and useful for me anyhow. 

The navy stripes in the fabric have a raised texture which made pattern-matching at the side seams a nightmare/impossible, so I brushed my shoulders off and moved on. The fabric doesn't fray so I stitched it using my regular sewing machine and left the edges raw. Not much else to report I don't think.

Thoughts:

Umm, I've not exactly been subtle so far about my thoughts and feelings towards this top! I freaking love it and that's all I can say. As soon as it comes out of the wash it gets put on again. I'm not sure quite what I'm going to do during Me-Made-May, because I keep wearing it with the charity-shopped skinny jeans as seen in these pictures, and I'm not sure I'm going to get a chance to make some myself before then. Hmm... just one of the many challenges to figure out during May I guess!   

So, what's the best garment you've made to date? 

Denim Hopscotch Skirt

If you'll permit me, I'd like to elaborate on the denim skirt I made Dolores as part of the Kid's Clothes Week challenge (the result of which I disclosed the other day). I didn't get round to sharing my creations on their site, but their blog well worth a gander for highlights of other participants inspiring creations. 

I must admit that this skirt took up the vast majority of my time during the Kid's Clothes Week sewing sessions. In fact it probably took way longer than it should have done, but I guess that's what happens when you try to sew at the end of a busy day spent dealing with a crazy baby. But it was the promise of seven whole hours of sewing laid before me that lead me to make this skirt. I knew a woven item would take more time than the usual knit leggings I whip up for her. 

Pattern:

I was very kindly given the Oliver + S Hopscotch pattern, among others, by the very generous Jenna. I'm still on the fence about the knit top/dress part of this pattern, but every version of the skirt that google could rummage up looked awesome, IMO. Seeing as Dolores is well stock for clothing for the foreseeable future, I decided to make the Size 2 (years), even though she's currently only 13 months old. That should have the bonus of lasting her a bit longer than if I'd made a smaller size, which helped justify the extra time I spent on this project. 

Cleverly, the front skirt sections are gathered into the waistband, but the back skirt section folds over at the top to form an elastic casing. With the back part elasticated, I'm wondering if you'd need to use the buttons at all to put this skirt on and take it off. I really like how this pattern is drafted, and the instructions are nice and clear. I did spend a whole evening constructing the pockets as per the pattern, only to decide to remove them the following morning, but that was my fault not theirs! 

Fabric:

Now here's the issue: the fabric I used was too thick for this pattern. I really wanted to stash bust this small piece of soft pale blue vintage denim. It reminds me of the 70s and the film Dazed and Confused! The colour in the image at the top of the post isn't very accurate, and I couldn't' get the tweaks right. The above button close-up image is more accurate. If I'd used the recommended weight of fabric (something like a quilting cotton), this project would have been a breeze and the pockets would have looked ace. The thing about children's clothes is that they are small. And the thing about smaller pattern pieces is that it's more difficult to get a super clean, crisp finish when using heavier fabrics than if you were making an adult's sized version. However, I battled on and I actually think the final outcome looks good! Phew! 

The wooden flower buttons were from my stash from an un-recall-able source. I stitched the centre of the flowers with yellow thread. I was tempted to do yellow topstitching on the skirt as well, but considering the difficulties I encountered in getting a neat outcome, I'm glad to didn't. In fact, now I think about it, this little skirt's colour scheme reminds me of Tilly's 70s feel Beignet. 

Thoughts:

I definitely intend to use this pattern again, probably in a larger size and DEFINITELY in thinner fabric. I'd like to have another go at the pockets, as they add something special to this fairly standard skirt pattern. I promise I'm not wishing anyone's life away, but I CAN'T WAIT to see Dolores running about in the outfit above (t-shirt charity shopped from Leigh-on-sea) in a year or so! 

Vintage Curtain Spring/Summer Handbag

The sun is starting to shine and the flowers are in full bloom and I wanted to celebrate the overall pissing-off of Winter with a new bag. Doesn't matter that it's still damn chilly where I live so I have to pair it with my Winter wool coat! I've been using the same shoulder bag for a couple of years now, and although I love it it's pretty ratty in places now. Plus all that leather, water-proof layering and chunky metal-tooth zip means it's damn heavy to lug about. 

Also, with all the changes going on with my body at the moment, a bag project would be likely to have far more of useful longevity compared to the items of clothing I'm currently making for myself!

Pattern:

Somehow, despite never buying anything from them, I've ended up on the mailing for PDF sewing pattern company ithinksew.com. I don't mind though because their newsletters always feature some sweet patterns for babies, children or bags that I usually have vague feelings towards trying some day. Well one day their Katie Boston Bag must have properly caught my eye (plus I think it was on sale) because I bought the PDF and recently got round to printing it out. I really like it's retro shape which I felt would be perfect made up in some of my epic stash of vintage fabric pieces.

Fabric:

I've had this vintage curtain in my stash for over a year now, and wasn't quite sure what to do with it as the pattern is quite large and 'curtain-y'. I thought it's be ace for this bag pattern because I could select sections of the pattern to form 'pictures' for the main front and back panels. Judging by the print design, I think it must be from the very early 1950's, but the curtain fabric itself is in fantastic condition. There are no signs of wear, tearing, fading or thinning at all. It's not a massive piece, so I was able to get these bag pattern pieces plus make a little coin purse for my mate Kirstin (can you believe it's the first money-purse she's ever owned despite being in her mid-30's?!) and all that was left was tiny scraps. A pretty satisfying vintage-fabric stash bust!  

The lining fabric was some synthetic stuff that I got from a recent fabric swap. I loved the bright peacock-y blue colour but didn't fancy the synthetic feeling against my skin, so using it for the lining of this bag seemed a clever choice. 

Project Details:

The instruction for the project were very good, I just took my time doing a step or two each day. This bag contains quite a lot of heavy fusible interfacing (1 metre of which was the only thing I needed to buy for the whole project) so some seams were very thick and tricky to sew on my poor old domestic machine from the 1970's. 

I didn't do the elasticated pocket section as per the pattern and instructions, which I fear would have taken an age. Instead I made two sets of patch pockets for the inside to help me organise all my little bits that usual float about at the bottom. I've even got a frikkin' pen pocket now! Plus it's awesome not to experience the 'Oh shit I've lost my mobile phone!' panic anymore, which I used to go through almost hourly with my last voluminous bag.

The only other major change I made was to eschew buying webbing for the handles as suggested, and instead made a pair from the same fabric. This was largely because the webbing selection at my local haberdashers was pretty poor, plus I like using what I already have where possible if it doesn't compromise on anything too much.  

The construction process requires you to make up the main panels attaching the outer layers to the lining, and to do the same by attaching the outer gusset/zip section to the corresponding lining pieces. You then attached the main panels to the gusset/zip section (which by this point is a loop) with all your seam allowances inside the bag. You then use bias binding to disguise those raw edges. They advised making your own bias but I used this contrast hot pink stuff that had been lurking in my stash instead. 

I'd definitely recommend this bag pattern/project, especially if you have some hefty denim needles and a robust sewing machine. It's a lovely shaped bag that proves a good canvas for some beautiful fabric. 

One Pattern, All Week

Alrightly. So, as previously announced, this week I've been taking part in Tilly's OWOP! project: to wear a garment each day from one of my favourite sewing patterns for a whole week. My pattern of choice was Simplicity 2451 (pictured above). I promise I'm going to stop blogging that damn pattern envelope picture now that this week has come to a close!

Day 1 coincided with the Spring Brighton Craftaganza! Here I am pictured with the irrepressible Rehanon who so kindly volunteered to help me make the event go with a swing. If you're interested at all, you can check out more photos from the event here. The lovely Handmade Jane also came to Craftaganza and was rocking one of her OWOP! skirts.

But back to the outfit. On Day 1 I wore my piped denim version of this pattern with my Mariner T-shirt, mustard cardigan and awesome Bebaroque tattoo-print tights. The main benefit of wearing this outfit was the pockets which I unconsciously jammed full of thumb tacks, balloons, business cards and other event-organising detritus.

Day 2 was spent trying to recover from the previous day's craziness by enjoying a walk around Brighton with my London-dwelling homegirl Silvia and Patty. Subsquently, the outfit was incredibly unimaginative consisting of the bandstand/foliage version with a black stretch top and my usual secondhand mustard cardigan. This outfit combo is so boring and predictable, in fact, that I was forced to find a giant lobster to stand next to in an attempt to make this photo interesting enough to prevent my dull outfit from making you fall asleep. Plus, despite the unseasonably warm weather, this outfit really wasn't warm enough so I changed into my usual slogging around wear as soon as I got home. I really can't relax and be properly comfy when wearing skirts, and Day 2 reminded me of that.

Day 3 and back at work. I don't know if this outfit entirely looks particularly good for my age or body shape, but I was basically pretending my piped denim skirt was a pair of jeans and combined it with what I normally would for a Monday. Here I'm rocking it with my remade Peter Pan collar sweatshirt. Simples.

Day 4 and I am reminded just how much I love the Big Flower vintage fabric version! It's just soooo pretty. Sometime when I'm wearing it, I catching myself looking down and staring for awhile. It's the most gorgeous vintage print design and I think the proportion of the design on this little skirt is pretty quirky and unexpected. Plus the pocket and yoke details break up the print just enough to avoid the print wearing me, rather than me wearing the print. Sadly, once again, I failed to come up with a more interesting outfit combo than my black stretch top and mustard cardi. Damn it.

Day 5 and I was back to pretending I was wearing jeans. This time I rocked the denim skirt with a remade jumper. This outfit feels like I'm pretty much ready for anything! Not sure why.

Day 6 and a sneaky-peak of a new garm! I'll introduce it properly soon, but this stretch peplum top created a new outfit combo with the bandstand version and ever-present mustard cardi. The thing that is annoying me most about this photo is that the top and some of the skirt tones, are actually really amazing jade/emeralds, rather than the flat turquoise my camera has interpretted.

Day 7 and the final day of this week of skirts. Today I came up with a different pairing for my vintage Big Flower version with my stripey long sleeved T-shirt and mustard cardi. If I've learnt anything from this week, is that I really should give that mustard cardigan a bit of a break! The colour just seems to work with so many things... Anyway, I'm not really sure if this outfit looks ok, either in terms of garment combination or on my figure. But I definately don't think it looks bad in either of those terms, so I'm happy.

Anyways. So, a week of Simplicity 2451. A week of skirts. As you may already know, I was NOT looking forward to wearing skirts all week. It was actually a far more pleasant experience than I predicted once I found that one of my pairs of trainers looks ok when worn with skirts, and that I actually own more pairs of tights that I thought. The unseasonably warm weather also meant I wouldn't freeze, plus I had more outfit options than if it's been a standard March week.

This pattern was a great one to do the OWOP! project with. The pockets are so useful, particularly because I've been suffering hard with hayfever recently and they have provided me with an easy and portable supply of tissues! I have also come to the conclusion that I prefer the shorter length. I hope everyone else had a great week, whether participating in the OWOP! project or not.

New School Vintage: Floral Rizzo Blouse

Hey! See that smug lady pictured above? She's all happy coz she snared this cute little 1950's blouse in a local vintage shop. Hahahahaha! A LIE! I totally just told a lie. I totally actually made this blouse, like, a week ago!

For those who have just joined us, let me quickly explain. I have a long-term goal, which I call 'New School Vintage', to make some garments that could viably pass as genuine vintage pieces. I pick a vintage pattern and some roughly era-accurate fabric (plus vintage trims like lace or buttons if possible) to make the project. However, I don't go down the wholely authetic route with particularly vintage sewing techniques or equipment, for example I use a domestic overlocker to tidy up the raw edges inside and I use fusible interfacing rather than sew-in. This is theatre afterall: a facade of vintage. I still want to create a garment that I'm happy wearing.

Largely because we haven't got round to framing any of our prints, Patty and I decorate our bedroom by hanging up special (usually vintage) garments as wall-art. The image above shows how I was trying to create an orangey-red vintage theme and fool everyone into thinking that blouse was real vintage.

So, to explain this project in detail, I going to try a new format for hopefully easier reading than my usual rambling approach: I'm ripping off the Pattern Review format. Let me know if you like it better.

Pattern Description:

I finally got round to making up the blouse I'd confessed to having cut out months ago in my recent Sewing Pattern Hoard post. I made View B, a sleeveless winged collar blouse with tucks for shaping at the waist. I was drawn to it because I could imagine Rizzo from Grease wearing it, but I also feel it's something Kitty & Daisy might rock too. I'm guessing it's mid-1950's, but I don't have it with me and I can't be arsed to research it.

Pattern Sizing:

This is a 34" bust pattern. I was fully expecting to have to let it out around the waist but actually is was fine PLUS I'm wearing a vest underneath in these images (what? It's still March!).

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

I'll let you be the judge of that!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Well, in the instruction were sparce, in that wonderful way vintage sewing patterns usually are. But yes, it was very easy and quick to put together after I'd faffed around with the pattern and cut it out.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Rizzo would wear this. And it rocks hard with my thrifted red cardi (though what doesn't?!).

Fabric Used:

Some amazing vintage printed cotton with an almost Hawaiian floral design that I scored at work. This fabric is actually quite faded in places, so not really appropriate for the range we make at work. I'm actually quite happy the fabric was faded because I think it gives it more of an authentic vintage feel. The orangey-red plastic buttons are also vintage and have lived in my button stash for an age.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Well, I folded 2cms out along the waistline of the bodice to account for my short-waistedness and that worked very well as the tucks now hit my natural waistline as they should. I think I'm going to do this alteration as standard on every pattern I make from now on. I also lowered the armholes because I find vintage patterns can be very restrictive around the armholes and neckholes. I then had to redraft the facings of course. I'm pleased I made that alteration but I think maybe I lowered it a little two much in the end.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yep. I would like to make another in black with the leopard print buttons I bought at Sew Over It in South London.

Conclusion:

I'm a big fan of this blouse. I'm not sure how much wear it'll get due to it's sleeveless nature, but it's actually very comfortable (I think I had a nap in it during the day!) and it seeing it makes me feel very summery. It was also an excellent item to wear to a riotous shop-closing party which was also attended by Rehanon (AKA Miss Demeanour) (pictured with me below) who, incidentally, was wearing her epic Mysterious Cities of Gold top! Oh, and I just remembered: Karen better hand over the good money she said she'd give to see me in a version of the Rizzo blouse! I think this might actually turn a profit!

Simplified Stash-Bustin' Sencha

Now it's safe to say that I have something of a pattern-crush on the Sencha blouse from Colette Patterns. Pictured above is my latest version which will soon be heading for a new life in my best mate's wardrobe (with regular outtings I hope!). It's made from some beautiful vintage crepe fabric. It's previous incarnation was as a large second hand handmade skirt that had been dwelling in my stash for at least six months. The colours in some of these photos have gone a bit screwy, but the above photo is the most accurate depiction. I've got some really lovely pieces of fabric in my stash, and I'm really trying to focus on turning them into wearable garments that will make someone happy, rather than languishing for years in a dark cupboard.

Well, I haven't seen a version of the Sencha blouse on the tinter-webs that hasn't made me feel want-y. But you know me, I just can't leave a pattern alone! Since my first (Sailor) endeavour, I've made quite a few Senchas for my boss and other ladies at Traid. I've continued to tweak the pattern and streamline the construction method so that, combined with the practice I've got from making them all, I can make six in a day (including cutting out) without, IMO, compromising the look of the original blouse style.

I'm betting there probably aren't many sewers out there who are interested in making six Senchas in one sitting. But I thought I'd share the bigger changes I've made in case it helps someone get more out of their limited sewing time. Of course, making these changes to the pattern will take some extra time in the first place, but if you plan to make several versions of this blouse, I think the changes'll pay off in the long run. Anyways, here's what I did:

1) Remove half of the seam allowance from the neckline on the front and back pattern pieces and completely ignore the neck facings. Then once you've attached the front and back pieces at the shoulder seams and neatened the shoulder seam allowance, overlock round the raw edges. Then fold the overlocking to the inside and stitch neatly down. Press the neckline with the iron and you should have a pleasingly neat finished neckline (see above) without the faff of a flapping facing.

2) Similarly, remove most of the sleeve facings leaving about 1cm (3/8") seam allowance. Overlock around the edge, fold the 1cm back and neatly stitch down. Press, and all will be well! (See above.)

3) The most major of the changes is to ignore the whole back button fastening thing, cut away the most of the back facing and insert a zip instead. Now, this would have been much easier to do if the Centre Back was marked on the original Sencha back pattern piece (which, inexplicably, it isn't) but it's easy to make an educated guess where the CB should be by seeing where the button/buttonhole indications are and just having a stab. You can always err on the side of caution and not cut too much away, then try the garment on before inserting the zip to decide if more needs to come off. I used a 1.5cm seam allowance and inserted a long closed ended zip (see above).

4) A general way to speed up the construction of garment is to, where possible, make closed seams rather than open ones. Basically, this means that after stitching your seam, you finish the edges of the seam allowances together rather than separately. With a closed seam, the seam allowances are pressed together in one direction, rather than pressing the seam allowances apart which makes an open seam.

I've spoken to a couple of clothing designers and pattern cutters about open seams V.s closed seams, and in situations where either are possible, and the consensus seems to be that the main benefits of closed seams is that they save time and overlocking thread. If you press your seams neatly during construction, from the outside both types of seam should look the same. If you were into making a couture-style garments, you'd probably opt for an open seam. I'm not. I'm into making neatly finished, nice looking garments that don't require an investment of months of precious sewing time to construct.

Anyways, as a fan of the mid-century kimono sleeve (AKA grown-on sleeve, Dolman sleeve, etc), I've long been seeking the neatest method of finishing the underarm seam at the curve to not create too much bulk. Having inspected lots of vintage garments with this type of sleeve, most seem to have had the seam allowance trimmed away at that curve and left with a raw or pinked edge. That can create a fraying issue, and the long term life span of a garment with raw edges concerns me. Therefore I've concluded that my favourite method for finishing this bit is to first make the whole of the side seam a closed seam. I flat-stitch as usual, then when I use my overlocker to neated the edges of the seam allowance, I basically cut away the seam allowance (overlockers, AKA sergers, have a blade in them that trims the fabric away as you sew) as close to my first stitching line as I dare. I then turn the garment through so the right-side is out and press the garment flat so the curve sits as it should do.

I hope any of those ideas/techniques come in handy to someone at some point. Happy Sencha (or any other kind of) sewing!