Showing posts with label style. Show all posts
Showing posts with label style. Show all posts

Monday, 25 March 2013

Mustard Marinière Trousers


AT LAST!!! I gathered some inspiration, learnt some stylistic lessons and finally did something about it! By trawling the depths of La Marinière tumblr and Pinterest, I learnt how good two of my style obsessions, Breton tops and mustard-yellow, could work when put together. 

Source: dofgstyle.com via Zoe on Pinterest


I created my 'Outstanding Outfits' Pinterest board to help me figure out how to work nice garments into interesting outfits, something I've never felt very skilled at. I have to say that pinning outfit pics that my instinct says are successful, then making myself analyse the components has been really useful in getting an idea of how my own wardrobe orphans and potential future makes could work. This board was filling up with variations of this Breton/mustard-yellow combination.



There comes a point when the quantity of the same damn image really needs to be acted upon! I even had some lovely mustard stretch twill-type fabric in my stash that I bought at the tail end of last year. As I've discussed at numerous points on this blog, I basically try to sew solely from my stash of second-hand fabric, but when visiting a certain fabric shop in Brighton to pick up a zip I saw this fabric and knew I had to make a couple of metres of it mine.



So after the semi-success of my Ultimate cropped trousers, I knew I finally had a good starting point to entrust my precious mustard fabric to. As stated in that blog post, I had to make a further couple of changes to the pattern: raising the front rise as the waistline dipped down at the front, adding 1 cm to each side seam and lengthening the legs to full length. I also drafted a little faux pocket flap for a bit of extra detail. The pocket flat is stitched down at the top with the point trapped down by stitching the button on top.


So what are my thoughts on these, what could be my ideal trousers? My thoughts are they are damned close to perfect. The overall fit came out looser and more casual than I was aiming for. Before these pics were taken I actually pinched 1 cm out from the inside leg which improved things a lot. I think this is because, whilst the grey version were too tight, this mustard fabric has more stretch in it than the grey so the extra width I added to the side seams might not have been necessary after all. But I do like the casual fit, they are so comfy and I've already worn them several times in less than a week! So they might not be the slick, sexy mustard skinnies I was aiming for, but they have already proven to be very wearable, and you really can't ask more than that from a garment can you?!


The other 'flaw', for want of a better word, is that this version inexplicable gapes a little at the waistline at the centre back. This is something I'll address when making another version. And I'm positive there will be other versions. As I wrote when blogging about the grey cropped version, I really think I have found the most successful starting point for trousers for me. That's one giant leap for me-made kind! 

So to put things in terms of The Jar, (and what other terms are there, ultimately?) I can happily say that I have created not only another wearable garment, but one that has been on my mind and my Pinterest board for way too long! So I make that four wearable garments so far this year, and seeing as it's still March, that kind of puts me a garment ahead, month-wise. Therefore now I'm going to spend some time giving thanks to and appeasing the sewing gods by completing some mending and repairs and embarking on a selfless sewing project. 
http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/the-ultimate-cropped-trousers.html

Monday, 11 March 2013

An Ode to Mustard-Yellow and Old Gold

Source: jenloveskev.com via Zoe on Pinterest


I'm writing this post to distract myself from the fact that it's frikkin' snowing outside. This Winter is really starting to take the piss. So let's dream of days when clothing decisions can be based on stylistic whims rather than purely the practical consideration of 'how many layers can I get on my body and still squeeze my coat on over the top?'.




Source: orlakiely.com via Zoe on Pinterest


As with my previous 'Ode to Emerald and Jade' post, I'd like to show some love to another group of awesome tones. Mustard-yellow, old gold or whatever else you wish to call these colour, has been a firm favourite of mine for a while, and IMO it rocks hard with navy, black and white. As well as Breton stripes, as previously discovered!




Currently, I only have a few things in my wardrobe belonging to this colour bracket. There's my me-made sunshine jacket (pictured below) and a second-hand cardigan and heels (both seen in this post). But I've got plans to shoe-horn in some more, oh how I have plans....


So here's some mustard-yellow/old gold inspiration direct from the depths of my beloved Pinterest boards. Is this a colour that appeals to you? What ways have you successfully incorporated it into your outfits? Do you think it looks better as certain garments rather than others (e.g, does it look better on the lower half of the body away from the face)?









Source: modcloth.com via Zoe on Pinterest






Source: etsy.com via Zoe on Pinterest























Source: flickr.com via Zoe on Pinterest















Tuesday, 12 February 2013

La Marinière


A couple of Saturday's ago I was lost in a deep Pinterest session. Coffee in hand and still firmly clad in pyjamas, I was stuck to that damn thing in the quest to find more visual inspiration and snaffle it onto the relevant boards. In particular, if memory serves, I had been fleshing out my 'Outstanding Outfits' board, trying to learn some lessons on garment combining, when a trail of links led me to the 'LA MARINIÈRE' tumblr. It's at this point that the hours really started to fly by!


So, I'm guessing that you may already know about my love of nautical stylings, including stripey Breton style tops. Well, if you are also into those, feast your eyes! So. Many. Amazing. Images. And informative too, it shows every damn way to wear one, and all the possible styles, silhouettes and shapes that they could come in.


If you are a sewer rather than a shopper, I think it's particularly useful because we have to make all the decisions (what type of fabric/cut/fit/neckline/sleeve-length/and so on) before the garment becomes a reality. So seeing them all played out in infinite variations before you is excellent.


What I have learnt from LA MARINIÈRE:

  • Breton tops look effortlessly ACE with skinny black trousers/jeans
  • Breton tops rock hard with mustard as well as with splashes of red
  • If you're not careful, Breton tops can look smart/preppy (which I try to avoid)
  • With so many subtle variations, there is no such thing as one basic style of Breton top



Having 'pinned' half the damn site onto either my 'Outstanding Outfits' or 'Modern Garment Sewing Inspiration' board, I've had to ban myself from visiting the site again. I've got enough inspiration from that site to last a lifetime of Breton-top sewing and wearing. And although I already have a sizeable section of my wardrobe that consists of nautical inspired tops, with this pile of stripey jersey in my stash, I can feel more Breton-makes brewing:


All these other images in this post are care of LA MARINIÈRE, which I whole-heartedly suggest you go and visit.



Sunday, 20 January 2013

An Ode to Emerald and Jade

Source: wwepw.com via Zoe on Pinterest

The occurrence is about as rare as a blue moon (every two to three years, if Wikipedia is to be believed), but on occasion I genuinely like what is considering to be 'in', stylistically speaking. Not really since the bib fronted dresses and blouses with Peter Pan Collars and self-covered buttons looks that were floating around a few years ago has my stylistic tendencies aligned themselves with popular taste.

Source: us.asos.com via Zoe on Pinterest


My love for wearing emerald and jade tones started a couple of years ago when I bought the second hand Vans pictured below on eBay. But it took a blog post on the Burdastyle website (which I pretty much never check) to catch my eye to learn that popular culture is apparently now in agreement with me.


The introduction of these into my wardrobe showed me how good this colour goes with the other colours I usually wear (black, navy, white, red and mustard, nautical stripey and leopard print... yes I do consider those last two colours!). As a woman with 'Winter' colouring (!), I'm meant to wear clear, bright jewel colours, which I agree I look best in. Since then, emerald and jade have been welcome new comers to my wardrobe when suitable fabric and second hand items avail themselves.


Sewing-wise, I've made a jade coloured peplum stretch top (pictured above) and a jade bolero shrug (pictured below), and thrifting-wise I recently scored an emerald shrug from a charity shop in York over Christmas. Having a hunt through my Pinterest boards, it appears my subconscious has been sourcing garments in these shades for a while! It's also more recently been considering how to introduce them into outfits.



Source: kaboodle.com via Zoe on Pinterest

Monday, 15 October 2012

My Wedding Dress!


Ok peops, here it is! The most important, most photographed and most stressful garment I'll ever make: my wedding dress! Thank you to everyone who expressed a desire to see the pictures, here you are.

Style:

Those of you who have read my previous posts on the planning of my dress will know that I was always going for a mid-century retro look. By the time I'd narrowed down my research, I was definitely erring towards a wiggle silhouette made from a separate skirt and bodice and lots of shoulder/decolletage on show. Above all else, this dress had to make me feel special, so it didn't seem like a time to hold back on the sexiness or glamour! Pat's Best Man told me on the night 'a bride's job is to make other men feel sad you're no longer on the market'! Apparently.


Pattern:

I chose the Burdastyle bustier/bombshell dress pattern (pictured below) as my basis because it had the general wiggle silhouette, waist seam and tight fitting bodice I knew I wanted. I ignored the cups sections and proceeded with toiling the bodice (with frequent fitting help from the ever-amazing Rehanon) again and again until we achieved a really good fit. Instead of the faceted bust of the original pattern, I wanted to recreate a draped, gathered bust effect something like the white Modcloth dress pictured below (underneath the next paragraph).


For that I knew I'd have to attempt some draping using my own body as the mannequin. With lots of encouragement and pin-passing from Rehanon, I finally got a good shape for the bust panels. It was very scary deconstructing my draped bodice toile to make a the bust piece pattern, I can tell you!


As for the skirt, I was initially going for a draped effect like Gertie's bombshell version of this pattern, but it kind of, umm, evolved in a different direction. What I mean to say is that the gathered skirt toile to look very good and I felt unsure how to approach getting a nicer effect. Time for completing this dress was getting tight, especially with all the other elements planning a DIY wedding entailed, so I decided to go for a straight wiggle skirt. As soon as I took that headache away, I breathed a sigh of relief and knew I'd done the right thing. I love the sleek, straight skirt in these pictures, and I think it allows the gathered bust design to really stand out.

Fabric and colour:

My mum and I planned to buy the fabric for my dress and my best mate's bridesmaid dress in one of the fancy-fabric purveyors on Berwick Street in London, knowing that if we drew a blank, we still had all of Goldhawk Road to plunder. For my dress I went with an open mind, but knew it needed to have some structure, be a bit special (AKA, shiny or something) and red. I also had one eye out for a nice brocade. In one of the silk shops I was drawn to some fantastic red silk that had a vintage-y embroidered flower motif but it was very narrow and a squillion pounds per metre. The search continued...


In Borovick Fabrics, I found the most perfect red acetate duchess satin stuff (its official name escapes me) at about £30 a metre. Hurrah! I thought. I glanced at the other colours it came in and was instantly drawn to an incredible peacock colour that really shone out. The sales guy was really helpful and pulled   a long length of each colour of the rolls and held it up to me so I could see in the mirror which worked best with my colouring. He even dimmed to lights to create for me a night time effect, bless him! Both looked great, so he cut a swatch of each and we went off to have some lunch and a margarita to deliberate. Rather wonderfully, whilst my mum and I were staring at menus in the windows of potential lunch venues, I spotted Kat, the editor of the only wedding website I allowed myself to read: Rock n Roll Bride!

We thought and ate, chatted and drank, and although Mum was on 'Team Red' at the beginning of the meal, she'd switched over to 'Team Peacock' by the end. Uncharacteristically, I felt pretty relaxed about having to choose between them. I think it was because I thought both were so lovely, I knew whichever I picked would have looked fantastic. The peacock won because it was just so vibrant and special.


Construction:

My goodness this dress took some work. For example, the bodice is underlined in calico to give extra support and structure, and there was so much hand-stitching, including a belt section that I eventually removed. Following Gertie's Bombshell Dress class, I added boning to the lining, effectively making an inbuilt corset.

I made the whole thing in secret away from Pat because I didn't want to see it before our wedding day. I didn't even want him to know that I'd gone for a different coloured fabric than the red he (and almost everyone else) was expecting. I had planned to make this dress at work, but when the TRAIDremade studio closed down, I had to make it in our bedroom on my own with the door closed! I wish I had a pound for every time I said to Pat, 'Don't go in there'! I repeatedly vacuum the carpets and went around picking up tiny threads because the raw edges fray constantly.


Accessories and extras:

Early on in our engagement, I went to a posh vintage dress shop to try on some of their stock (even though I had absolutely no intention of buying anything) to get some idea. I saw an amazing head piece thing that was apparently called a 'bubble veil' which was basically some netting which covered most of the face only attached to a small fascinator/hat base. Then after attending a vintage-themed wedding fair in Hove back in the Spring with my friend Kirstin where we saw another, she declared she would make me one! She ordered heaps of supplied from Etsy and started playing about figuring out how to get the right look.

When I bought the peacock fabric instead of red, it was back to the drawing board a bit, because Kirstin had initially bought red netting because we thought it would show up well against my dark hair. She got some black netting and requested some of the fabric to cover the base, and she made me the most awesome veil that clipped onto my hair with a big hair clip.


I decided very early in in the wedding planning that I would do my own hair and makeup. Getting someone else to do those things seemed like an unnecessary expense when we were trying to keep to a small budget, plus I just didn't trust anyone else to get the kind of look I've spent years practising and feel most 'myself' with.

For my hair, I had to consider the placement of the hat/veil above anything else. I even got my fringe cut twice to get it to look correct with the veil. On one side at the top I made a victory roll, and on the other side I pinned the side of my hair up and towards the back so my veil had something to be clipped on to. The length of my hair was left to hang loose having mastered heated rollers to get relaxed, vintage-y curls.

My makeup was a variation of my usual 'going out' look, but with recently acquired additions of mac highlighter for the inside corners of my eyes and on the brow bone, greyish-brown shadow on my eye lids and a light tinted moisturiser/foundation to give a more even skin tone.


For jewellery, I'd wanted some vintage costume diamante pieces but my Etsy and Ebay hunts just weren't unearthing the right things. I thought a swallow brooch would be nice, but all the ones I found online were either too new and trashy looking, or old and beyond wearable. It was incredibly serendipitous that I found the perfect 1950's diamante swallow brooch at a local street fair in August!

I knew I wanted some dangly diamante earrings, but all the ones I'd found online had screw or clip-on backs. I wanted some for pierced ears but that didn't seem to be an option with the vintage earrings. New diamante earrings seemed to look quite tacky or were really expensive, so I was delighted when my friend Sarah leant me the perfect pair of dangly earrings for pierced ears. Hurrah!!!

I wore a pair of black heels that I love, are vaguely comfortable, and suited the style of dress really well. I wore them with some Pamela Mann love-seamed tights:


So there you go my friends! That's the low-down on my wedding outfit. Please keep your eyes peeled over the next few weeks for more wedding-related posts, there are lots of other handmade elements that made my wedding wonderful that I'd like to share with you all.

Monday, 8 October 2012

Guest Post: Kathryn... Considering Massive Collars

Today's post is by Kathryn from 'Yes I  Like That', a London-based blogger and one of the nicest and funniest ladies out there in blogland.

When Zoe asked me to do a guest post for her blog, a topic immediately came to mind. It's a very important topic which I think has been overlooked by the sewing world, and I hope you'll enjoy this serious exploration of it's possibilities. But what is this topic, I hear you ask?

MASSIVE GREAT BIG COLLARS

Now I know that there's a fair amount of peter pan collar exploration going on around sewing blogs, but I feel that there are still boundaries to be pushed. What really sparked my interest was a pattern I received at the Brighton Sewing Swap, earlier this year.


This pattern fascinated me. The collar is so big that it overlaps the shoulder seams to rest delicately on the top of the arm.

Simplicity 8664 led me to do some research into huge collars through the ages. Apparently a design feature like this is known as a 'pilgrim' collar, which seems to stem from American fancy dress costumes like these ones. (Incidentally, if you are interested in collar research, I recommend this amazing Wikipedia page which has an exhaustive list of every kind of collar known to man.) The pilgrims came to American in 1620, which was around the time that ruffs were being replaced by enormous lace collars for both men and women. You can see that in this famous portrait of The Laughing Cavaliar by Frans Hals.


You might think collars like this are sort of ridiculous, and I admit that they are, but there's a strange beauty to their exaggeratedness as well. I loved the delicate lacy white collars in the Louis Vuitton SS12 show, which totally reminded me of dolls clothing.


Pilgrim collars were big in the 1950s as well (in both senses). Here's an example, McCalls 8204. How fabulous are the hip pockets on this pattern?


Of course the 1960s are the natural habitat of the exaggerated Peter Pan collar. Here's a beautiful deadstock example from Etsy, which also features lace trim and matching white cuffs. It looks like something Wes Anderson might have put in the costumes for Moonrise Kingdom.


In the 70s, things started to a go a bit wrong. Not content with making flat collars bigger, pattern makers went a bit experimental and decided to grotesquely enlarge the shirt collar, which resulted in things like this:


This large collar is also from the 1970s, and it looks dangerously sharp. Although I have to confess I rather like the trousers on this pattern. That fabric is amazing.


In the 1980s the big collar hit hard times, and was forced to debase itself by appearing in patterns like this. Actually the dress on the far left isn't too bad, apart from being a bit sack-like, but things just get worse and worse going to the right.


In conclusion, I reckon the massive collar is ripe for sewing rehabilitation. I quite like the idea of sewing one in a very light lace so you can see the dress fabric underneath, or doing a double collar in two different fabrics. There's something fascinating about exaggerating the shape and size of a feature like this.

What do you think? Would you ever sew a shoulder-skimming collar?
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