My Sewing Library: Part 3

Today's post is the final in my little series of sewing-related book reviews. If you didn't see the other two and are interested, Part 1 is here and Part 2 is here.



The Great British Sewing Bee: Sew Your Own Wardrobe by Tessa Evelegh

What is it and who is it aimed at?

I wrote a fuller review of this hard-back title back in March, but in short this book is aimed at everyone aside from the super-super-skilled seamster by guiding them through a multitude of garment sewing projects. It is very detailed and I'd be surprised if most people who like sewing couldn't find something to interest them and help improve their skills in this book.

Why have I got it?

I was offered a copy to review, and like a good girl I actually did write my honest and unbiased review within a reasonable time frame of receiving it. 

Does it include patterns?

Hell yes it includes patterns. Squillions of them, for women, men and children. So many that I'm not exactly sure how many, and I don't have the book with me at the moment to count them. As I mentioned in my full review of this book, it'd be unlikely that you couldn't find at least one of the patterns worth a bash. I'd recommend doing some internet research before you embark on making any of them though, as I've read a few people's comments stating they found flaws in the sizing or fit this or that pattern from this book. 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

Nup, I haven't used it. I really should give it some attention one of these days because I'm sure I could learn a thing or two from it, but I must admit that none of the patterns appeal to me that much so I haven't scrabbled to make anything from it. It does look a thorough and detailed tome though. So if you are just getting into sewing and looking for a book to really get your teeth into, this could be a really good buy. Plus with sooo many patterns included, if you like a lot of them, it could work out great value for those alone.



Fit for Real People: Sew Great Clothes Using ANY Sewing Pattern

by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This paper-back is all about creating well-fitting clothing by tissue-fitting your pattern and making any necessary alterations before cutting into your fabric. It is only concerned with this method of fitting, but covers pretty much every figure 'quirk' you can think of. So unless your proportions miraculously match those of the Big-Four pattern companies, you're likely to find at least a small part of it useful. It also includes quite a bit of history into sewing patterns, sizing and more, so if you are sewing geek on any level, you're likely to find it interesting.

Why have I got it?

I bought it with my hard-earned pennies because I know very little about the fitting stage of sewing clothes, aside from blending between sizes and pinching excess out of the side seams.  

Does it include patterns?

No, but it will help you look at all sewing patterns with a renewed sense of potential!

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

I must admit that I owned this book for an embarrassingly long time before even opening it up. However, one of my sewing aims for 2015 is to make well-fitting garments. Since my opportunities for sewing have diminished, I'm aiming for quality rather than quantity when it comes to making myself garments. So I've cracked this book out and am currently reading it more or less from cover to cover. I'm skim-reading the parts that really don't relate to me, but still absorbing information from those sections to have a better understanding of fit in general.

But hot damn this is an ugly book! Aside from the fact that all the garments that are being made look like something worn by audience members from early episodes of Oprah, the quality of photography is not great and there's a weird mix of styles when illustration is deployed. I'd actually prefer it if this book was almost entirely illustrated, I think the techniques would be easier to decipher.

But it's not just the clothing styles and book production that looks dated, it also shows how much our funny old pastime has changed in recent years by the fact that this book deals exclusively with the Big Four pattern companies' products. With the blossoming of independent sewing pattern availability, which are often available as PDFs or in different grades of paper, I wonder how relevant the tissue-fitting method this book exclusively deals with will be going forwards. That said, these authors are incredibly knowledgeable and experienced, and anyone who takes sewing their own clothes seriously should probably own or borrow this book at some point as it includes so much useful info on how to alter patterns to correct figure 'quirks'. 



Love at First Stitch: Demystifying Dressmaking by Tilly Walnes

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This sizeable paper-back is another that I have previously reviewed more fully, however, in-brief: it is aimed at beginner and 'lower-intermediate' (if such a thing exists, although generally I hate categorising people who enjoy sewing in this way) sewers, but really anyone who appreciates a friendly, technical-jargon-free approach and a beautifully designed book. I feel that this book has probably permanently altered what many of us will come to expect from a sewing book, in terms of both the stylishness of the projects and the design of the book itself. 

Why have I got it?

I was luck enough to be sent a copy by the publishers to review on my blog. 

  

Does it include patterns?

Indeed it does! And if you are into Tilly's aesthetic, then it's wonderful to have a collection of cute and wearable patterns to bust out with crystal clear instructions and photos to hold your hand through the construction. Like all good sewing books that include patterns, the projects start at a relatively easy level and get progressively more challenging as your skills and confidence improve.   

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

I have very much enjoyed reading chunks of it before bed and stroking the beautiful pages! I will definitely be deploying the Margot pyjama bottoms and Mimi blouse patterns before 2015 is out. The others are sweet styles but either not my aesthetic or not suitable for my current lifestyle. If cocktails begin to feature more frequently in my life again, the Lilou may happen too at some stage! 

The author, Tilly, is my friend and effectively my boss since I teach workshops at her studio space. But I hope you trust that I'm not being biased when I say that if you dig the look of the clothes in this book, you'd be crazy not to put 'Love at First Stitch' on your birthday wish-list. 

So if you made it to the end of these review posts, thank you for taking the time to read them! I'll be reviewing more books in the near-ish future as I received Gertie's latest book for Christmas and was sent a lingerie sewing book at the end of the year that I haven't had a chance to look at yet. If you have any other sewing-related books that I haven't written about but would recommend, please leave a comment...

My Sewing Library: Part 2

Thanks so much to those who commented for the positive response to Part 1 of this little book review feature. It's great to hear that it's helped and inspired those who were looking to expand their sewing resources. So, onward...

Metric Pattern Cutting by Winifred Aldrich

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This hard-back book is all about pattern cutting, and literally nothing else. Whether you're a fashion student or a home-seamster wanting a deeper knowledge on the anatomy of a garment pattern, this is widely accepted to be the very best place to start. Aldrich takes you through drafting basic pattern blocks from scratch based on specific measurements, as well as how to adapt those blocks and how to draft pretty much every type of design feature (like sleeves, collars, cuffs etc) known to man. If you're willing to put the time in, this book gives you the building blocks to make your clothing designs a reality. However, as cute as the little illustrations are, a pretty coffee-table book this is NOT! 

Why have I got it?

This book was on the reading list to buy when I started my Fashion Design degree back in 1999! Yup, I was at uni in the 90's, *feels seriously old*! This wasn't the only pattern cutting title I bought that was on that list, but it's the only one I still own, which I feel says a lot. 

Does it include patterns?

No, but it does contain the very DNA of patterns! This book will make you the mother of patterns. Which is kind of better than including patterns, don't you think?

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

So freaking much: that's how much I've used it. I've used it to draft blocks, I've used it to figure out how to make a puff sleeve, I've used it to grade patterns into different sizes, I've used it to balance my plate on whilst I eat dinner... If pattern cutting interests you at all, then it simply must be owned. 

Built By Wendy Dresses by Wendy Mullin and Eviana Hartman

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This book is very much in the vein of Wendy Mullin's two SEW U books, however it manages to avoid repeating the content of those others. Focusing on dresses made from woven fabric, this book assumes you know the basics of how to sew and instead helps you explore your hidden designer. It covers topics like picking a garment style to flatter your body shape, how to apply print and colour to good effect and different neckline options, as well as sections you'd expect from a sewing book like picking suitable fabric types. 

Why have I got it?

After buying and loving her first two books, I flipped out with excitement when I found Mullin had written another. Then I bought it. 

Does it include patterns?

YES!!! Like the other two, this includes three multi-sized garment patterns. The three dress patterns have interesting features that makes them ripe for customisation. Inside the book are detailed instructions on how to adapt those three basics to make twenty five different styles, plus it would only take the application of a little bit of imagination to come up with quite a few more by applying her lessons in design that feature towards the beginning of the book. 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

To be honest, no I haven't used it save for reading bits of it here and there. By the time I bought this book, I had become pretty obsessed with sewing from vintage patterns to create a rockabilly-esque style. The aesthetic of the garment styles in this book are really cute, but didn't gel with me at that time particularly, and are possibly a bit young for someone in their thirties I felt. 

However, having gone back to it recently to refresh my memory for this post, I do feel it has a lot to offer. I'm actually interested in giving a least one of the patterns a whirl, and I may make that a priority early 2015. 

Sew Over It: Sew it, Wear It, Love It by Lisa Comfort

What is it and who is it aimed at?

For a slightly longer review of this book, check out this previous blog post. In short, this book is aimed at beginners with a creative bent who appreciate a feminine, retro-y style. With lots of ideas for customising and up-cycling projects as well as very basic dressmaking projects, this little hard-back written by my former boss shows how to make a great impact in just an afternoon. 

Why have I got it?

I was given a free copy at the launch party. 

Does it include patterns?

Nup. The closest this book gets to patterns is showing you how to draft very basic elasticated or gathered waist skirts using your measurements. 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

I haven't used it but then I didn't expect to because I'm not really its target readership. No doubt there are some things in here I could learn, but there are other books that appeal to me more aesthetically, both in terms of the projects and overall design of the publication. So I'm more likely to choose those when perusing my collection looking for some bedtime reading. That said, if you have a girly friend who wants to get into sewing, this would make a lovely gift. 

My Sewing Library: Part 1

I don't have the biggest collection of sewing related books, compared to some people, but I was surprised to find that they do fit in a whole shelf of our book cases after a recent tidy-up. I thought it'd be fun to do a series of mini-reviews in three parts in case anyone was thinking of expanding their own collection and wanted some ideas. So, in absolutely no order at all...

SEW U: Home Stretch by Wendy Mullen and Eviana Hartman

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This book is an introduction to sewing with knit fabrics. It assumes you have a bit of sewing knowledge under your belt already (perhaps hoping you've used the first Sew U book, which I used to have and is excellent, but I've lost and therefore won't be reviewing here). 

It is a hard-back spiral bound book with wonderfully clear advice and illustrations. It holds your hand and guides you through everything you'll need to know to start sewing with all manner of different knits, whether you own a fancy overstitch machine, an overlocker/serger or just a regular good old sewing machine. 

Why have I got it?

I used to be a huge fan of the Built by Wendy clothing brand. Around the time I moved to Spain, Wendy Mullen's aesthetic really resonated with me and I found the BBW website very inspirational. I never owned any BBW garments, because by then I was more interested in making my own (and too skint) but I adored the pattern range she made with Simplicity. As I say, I used to own the first SEW U book and really liked the format. I can't remember exactly but I must have seen the knits version on a blog somewhere and bought it for myself. 

Does it include patterns?

Damn straight it does. I includes three multi-sized patterns and the book shows you how to make many more style variations by using them as a starting point and making tweaks. 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

Yes, I used it soooo much when I got into sewing with knits. I think I bought it at exactly the right time for me: I'd already had a year or two of intense woven garment sewing under my belt, and really wanted to crack using knits as I longed to make a truly wearable day-to-day wardrobe. This book is about 7 years old now but the patterns included are such classic shapes that I can't imagine it feeling dated for many years yet. I would most definitely recommend it to anyone who is about to embark on sewing with knits, or has recently started using them but still has some questions. 

Design-It-Yourself Clothes: Patternmaking Simplified by Cal Patch

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This paper-back is a gentle introduction to pattern drafting from scratch for those who find most of the usual pattern drafting/cutting tomes a bit dry. The benefit of this book over those others is that the patterns you'll create are meant to look more like garments you'd like to wear than many of the more traditional styles the regular pattern books show. 

Why have I got it?

I bought it about five years ago but I can't remember why. I've never been massively into drafting patterns from scratch so I don't know why I chose this one. I think the clean lines of the cute garment styles appealed, as did they lovely photography. 

Does it include patterns?

No but it does include step by step instructions on how to make your own using your own specific body measurements. Theoretically, because they will be based on your own vital stats, the outcome should be better fitting straight off than a pre-made pattern based on 'standard' sizing. Once the basic patterns have been drafted, the book then goes into how you can make changes to them for a pretty wide variety of garment styles. 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

No I haven't used it, although I did take inspiration from that cream blouse/jacket pictured below to form the basis of my Saint cardigan (RIP). I wouldn't say that there's anything wrong with this book at all, I just figured out pretty quickly that I prefer using ready made patterns, perhaps making tweaks or adapting them, but that I didn't have the patience to draft my own from scratch. 

As I haven't really used it I'm not sure I'd be able to recommend it or not. I guess it would be a good buy if the style of the garments in the book are similar to what you usually make/wear already. 

The BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook by Nora Abousteit and Alison Kelly

What is it and who is it aimed at?

Designed very much in the image of the SEW U books, IMO, this hard-back spiral bound book is the first developed by the crew that brought us the BurdaStyle sewing community. It attempts to span all levels of sewing experience, at one end explaining how to thread a sewing machine, and at the other showing possible ideas on how to alter a coat pattern and then make it. I guess it's aimed at the vast number of members of the BurdaStyle sewing community, of which I used to be one. 

Why have I got it?

The best bit about this book, I feel, is that it taps into a vast array of home-sewer creative talent. When they were producing this book, they asked lots of members of BurdaStyle to design variations of the patterns, and then got them to make those variations which were pictured inside. I was asked to design a variation of the blouse, which is the pale pink one pictured in the centre right in the picture below (BTW, I did NOT choose the fabric or colour!). Everyone who took part got a copy of the book sent to them for free.  

Does it include patterns?

Indeed. There's a skirt, blouse, dress, coat and bag. The garment patterns are multi-sized. For each of the patterns there are instructions on how to make it straight-up, plus two other variations explained in detail, plus lots of little images of pattern-hack ideas (like mine). 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

To be honest, no, I haven't used it aside from to flick through, I therefore can't comment on how the patterns come together or on the construction or pattern hacking directions. I will say that the reason I didn't use it is that none of the patterns appealed to me. I quite liked some of the variations of the original patterns as designed by the community members, but as you may have guessed by my previous comments, I'd rather be sewing than pattern cutting. Sewing patterns aren't a scarcity round my house, so I'm just not going to tackle a pattern that I don't really like if I've got to do anything to it. 

Gertie's New Book For Better Sewing by Gretchen Hirsch

What is it and who is it aimed at?

This chunky hard-back spiral bound sewing book is definitely one for the vintage/retro lovers, and probably Gertie lovers, out there. It doesn't go into super-beginner stuff like how to thread a sewing machine, but it does give lots of info on stuff like fabric choice, pressing tools, buttonholes etc. Normally I'd ignore stuff like that and get straight to the pattern-joy, but this book goes into impressive detail so I think it'd still be very useful for more experienced sewers looking to expand their knowledge. 

Why have I got it?

I got a free copy to review, but I must admit that I never got round to it (naughty Zo). My intention was to make one of the garment patterns from the book and review it at the same time as commenting on my experience of sewing the pattern. Then within weeks of receiving my copy, I discovered I was preggers so with a body about to change in all sorts of ways, I held off and it just never happened. 

Does it include patterns?

I think I already spoilt the answer to this in my previous response. Yes! It has a pencil skirt, portrait blouse, sheath dress, scallop waist full skirt, bow-tie blouse, sweetheart sundress (my favourite), wiggle dress, shirtwaist dress, suit jacket and coat dress PLUS a few variation ideas you can make with each of the original patterns. PHEW! That lady must have been busy. 

Have I used it and would I recommend it?

I have used it in that I've enjoyed reading chunks of it. Gertie really has put soooo much effort into this book. There are heaps of sections on interesting topics that I haven't seen covered in other sewing books like what to look out for when using vintage sewing patterns, what under-garments help give a good retro silhouette and lots lots more. In fact it makes me wonder what she found to write about in her second book! I still haven't used any of the patterns yet so I can't comment on that part, but as a very interesting reference book, then yes I would definitely recommend it.


Ok so that was part one, watch out for parts two and three.... Or don't! I'm going to write them either way hahaha.

'The Great British Sewing Bee: Sew Your Own Wardrobe' Book Giveaway!!!! - UK and Ireland Only

***THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED. THANKS FOR ENTERING***

Hi peops! It was a right old giveaway-aganza round these parts during MMMay'14, wasn't it? Having taken a month off to prevent this being known as 'that giveaway sewing blog', it's time for another one!

The Prize:

If you recall, back in March I reviewed the 'Great British Sewing Bee: Sew Your Own Wardrobe' book and was surprised to find that it was very awesome. The publishers have been kind enough to offer up a copy to give away to one lucky blog-reader. Unfortunately, due to complicated book licensing laws, this giveaway can only be open to UK and Ireland residents only, sorry international folks.

So check out the aforementioned review to find out more about the book. If you are interested, you can find a full list of the sewing patterns included in the pattern pack here. Then wait by your front door for the postman to arrive. When he does, check the address on your post to see if you live in the UK or Ireland. If it turns out that you do, then you can enter thusly:

How to Enter:

Leave a comment in the comments section of this post telling me who was your favourite competitor of this year's GBSB and why! If I can't access your email address within two clicks, please include it in your entry comment. Email addresses will not be used for anything other than to contact you if you are the lucky winner of this giveaway. To reiterate, this giveaway is open to residents of the UK only and the winner will receive the book completely free of charge. Leave your comment by midnight GMT Tuesday 8th July and the winner will be chosen by random number generator and contacted on Wednesday 9th July. Good luck, my UK-and-Ireland-based book-loving friends!

Book Review: Love At First Stitch

If you're a reader of sewing blogs (and my guess is that you are), it's likely that you are already fully aware that Tilly of Tilly and the Buttons has written a sewing book! However, I've been lucky enough to receive a review copy, and now that MMMay'14 is over and done with I'm damn well going to review it. 

What it is, basically?

In short, it's a sewing companion that shows you how to make small a range of women's garment projects, and aims to inspire sewing creativity and wearing handmade generally. Aside from the step-by-steps of garment construction, there are all sorts of added extras, like how to plan sewing projects so that they fit with your sense of style and colour palette that really take this up a notch from a lot of sewing books. The design and layout of Tilly's book is truly stunning, and for me it's neck-and-neck with the Built By Wendy sewing books in terms of aesthetics (i.e. the best).

Like the aforementioned Built By Wendy sewing books and the previously reviewed 'Great British Sewing Bee: Sew Your Own Wardrobe' book, 'Love at First Stitch' contains a pattern section at the back that includes full size, multi-sized sewing patterns. The book talks you through how to create them in a pretty jargon-free and friendly manner, plus 'Love at First Stitch' emphasises ways to customise the patterns to make unique interpretations of your own.

Who is it for?

It's largely aimed at beginners who find more 'serious' sewing manuals intimidating and a turn-off. Tilly writes in a chatty, friendly way and includes personal anecdotes so 'Love at First Stitch' feels more like taking a class with a lovely teacher who is determined to help you have fun and feel capable. That said, I would argue that this book would also appeal to those who have been sewing for a while. Who doesn't want to sew some stylish, wearable garments and have the instructions actually make sense for once?! It's like, just because I can read Spanish, it doesn't mean it won't be easier to read the menu in English. It'll get me to the food quicker... 

It really is a beautiful book as well. So if you have very limited sewing time in your day-to-day life, flicking through this book and stroking the pretty pages when you've collapsed into bed can definitely help you feel like you've interacted with and been nourished by your favourite pastime. 

Will I use it?

For reals. I already use it in the 'stroke the pages having collapsed into bed' capacity (I hope that doesn't sound weird, now that I've written it twice). I also have my eye firmly on the Mimi blouse pattern, once I've got my sewing table clear of the mountain of WIP's currently residing on there. The pyjama pattern also looks like a useful staple that I'll no-doubt bust out at some point. This book is also good to remind myself how vibrant and exciting the handmade revolution that we are all part of really is. Oh, and Tilly mentions in the book about how Me-Made-May is a useful way to start wearing handmade more often, and that makes my heart sing with pride. 

Book Review: The Great British Sewing Bee, Sew Your Own Wardrobe

What it is, basically?

To be honest, when I was sent a review copy of this year's Great British Sewing Bee book, my expectations were low. I was cynically expecting it to be a fluffy, glossy series companion with bios on this year's contestants and plenty of 'swoon-worthy' pictures of Patrick Grant: a homage to the show and little more. I hold my hands up, I was wrong. There, I said it.

It is actually a book about sewing. As in, it teaches you how to sew. I guess the clue is in the tag line 'Sew Your Own Wardrobe', which somehow I must have missed at first. And there aren't even that many pictures of Patrick in it. The best bit is that it has a very generous separate patterns pack which includes loads of multi-sized patterns for women, men and children, all of which have been (or will be, I assume) featured in the challenges set in this year's series. You'd really struggle not to find at least a couple of the styles worth having a go at (personally, I think I'll give the leggings a whirl...). Plus the patterns are printed very clearly, it's not a headache-inducing mess of lines like the pattern sheets from a Burda magazine. With the pattern pieces traced off, the book then assists the reader with the construction of those garments using clear diagrams and helpful written explanations.

Who is it for?

Unless you've been sewing for as long as May Martin (Patrick's super-skilled sewing teacher co-judge) or Anne (the 80-something winner from series one), this book is bound to be useful. All it assumes from the reader is that they own a sewing machine, can thread it already (or can find out elsewhere how to thread it) and aren't afraid to put the pedal to the metal. Ideally it'd make a great gift for someone who has watched the show and expressed an interest in getting into sewing themselves, or perhaps for someone who has already made a few things but lacks confidence in expanding their repertoire.

Is it any good?

Yes, for the reasons given above. Plus it's only £25, which I think is a really good price for so much detailed information and heaps of useful sewing patterns. However, if I were to pick holes in this book, I might say that it's not an overly stylish publication in terms of the book design and the garment styles involved (but we've got Tilly's book on the way for that). But in a way, that is also this book's strength, because I'd imagine it will then appeal to a wider range of would-be sewing enthusiasts. Don't get me wrong, the book does include lots of beautiful photographs that inspire you to run to your sewing corner (or carve yourself out a sewing corner) and immerse yourself in buttons, but it doesn't have a strong particular look, if you get what I mean.

Neither does it particularly encourage the reader to unleash their creativity and f^*k shit up with their sewing machine. By which I mean, it doesn't offer variations on these basic patterns by suggesting alternative collars, sleeve styles, skirt lengths, pocket additions etc. But that's not what this book is concerned with and it doesn't need to be. It's teaching you to make a really wide range of great, wearable garments by acquiring and applying a whole heap of sewing techniques. If you are creatively inclined beyond that, I don't think you really need a book to give you permission to then take things further.

For me, my favourite part of the book is actually the foreword written by May:

'...It's so rewarding making an item of clothing, for yourself or somebody else, that is all your own work. If you keep it, you can give yourself a pat on the back and if you're making it for someone else, you're giving them a part of yourself...'

Giveaway Monday UK-only Edition: 'Just Sew Stories' Book

*** UPDATE: THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED. THANKS IF YOU ENTERED ***

If ever the was a publication that proved craft and sewing has moved on from it's stuffy, old-fashioned image it's 'Just Sew Stories' by Katie Allen. It would take a week to explain to your grandma all the influences and cultural references behind the projects in this neon-hued book.  It is interesting that Allen (who is a regular contributor to Mollie Makes magazine) references her grandmothers as her source of inspiration in the introduction of this book, but you cannot deny that she has taken the techniques they taught her (cross-stitch, patch work, hand embroidery etc.) and translated them in a direction that is very much her own and for her generation. 

The design of this book is delightful: cute collages of inspiration, clever typography and geometric elements make flicking through this book a joy. As with most books of this ilk, she starts by imparting some basic techniques that you'll need to complete the projects within. But this is no detailed 'How to Sew' book: mastering skills is not the objective here. You get just enough under your belt to get going with the projects, so if you are looking for a comprehensive sewing guide, you'd best look elsewhere. But in this sense it is perfect for it's intended audience.

The projects include appliquéd glasses case, sequinned hair fascinator and bloomers. They are cute, fun and quick. But I'm not going to pretend otherwise: this book probably isn't for the readers of my blog, not even the younger ones. This book is for their teenage-ish daughters or little sisters: individuals who have expressed an interest in making stuff but don't currently have the patience and/or desire to master a sewing machine or figure out sewing/knitting patterns. Obvs I'd like to say this book would appeal to sons and little brothers too, but alas vintage-style aprons, retro head bands and puffy bloomers are unlikely to draw many young creative dudes. However, the projects are 'cool' enough for the teen market who would like to have a bash at them (I'd imagine) but also quick enough to get a finished result before Hollyoaks or Skins comes on the telly.

The eagle-eyed of you will have noticed that this post is another instalment of my Giveaway Monday series, so it may not surprise you to learn that I have one copy to give to a lovely reader of my blog.  And with Christmas coming up, this giveaway could be a great opportunity to encourage the creativity of a young crafter or crafter-to-be at no expense to yourself! Unlike the 'Sew Over It' book I gave away a couple of weeks ago, I don't have the publisher stumping up the postage this time, and because books are heavy and I am skint, I'm afraid this week's giveaway is UK ONLY. Sorry overseas-peops. 

To enter, just leave a comment in the comments section of this post telling me why you fancy getting hold of a copy of 'Just Sew Stories' (no reason, I'm just nosey). If I can't access your email address within two clicks, please include it in your entry comment. Email addresses will not be used for anything other than to contact you if you are the lucky winner of this giveaway. To reiterate, this giveaway is open to residents of the UK only and the winner will receive the book completely free of charge. The giveaway entries will close at midnight GMT Sunday 18th November and the winner will be chosen by random number generator and contacted Monday 19th November October. Good luck, my UK-based, book-loving friends!

(Belated) Giveaway Monday: 'Sew Over It' Book

*UPDATE: THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED*

Forgive the Tuesday-ness of this instalment of 'Giveaway Monday', I've got a shitty virus and was thoroughly sofa-bound yesterday. Anyways! Thanks to everyone who entered last Monday's giveaway which came courtesy of awesome Etsy shop 'The Polished Button'. The winners were selected by random number generator and have been contacted.

Today's prize is the new book by sewing teacher and sewing cafe owner, Lisa Comfort. Named after her South London based sewing shop/cafe/school, 'Sew Over It' the book is just as pretty and well produced. Before I continue, I feel the need to disclose any potential source of bias I may have: I was invited to the launch of this book, given a glass of champagne and a free copy of this book. I think I was chosen to 'represent' for the sewing bloggers (along with Tilly) at the event because I wrote about my visit to the shop last year. However, it takes more than one glass of champagne to buy my favour (FYI: it takes a bottle to do that!) so I think I can remain balanced in my opinion!

'So, what's this book like then?', I hear you ask. Well, it's definitely aimed at beginners rather than sewers with a fair chunk of sewing experience under their belts, which is not to say this book couldn't teach anything to the later category. It's thoughtfully planned out, this book. It starts with the uber-basics (including introducing the needle and thread, basic hand-stitches and sewing on a button) and then encourages the reader to take a look at the clothes already in their wardrobes and introduces some nice ways to customise and jazz-up (did I just write 'jazz-up'? I must still be very ill) your garments.

Next, Lisa encourages the reader to push their developing skills towards more substantial clothing alterations with more sewing-machine action than the customisation section required. She walks you through some clever tactics for making old and tired or second-hand/vintage clothing more wearable and updated. They following step is some basic projects starting from scratch with shop-bought fabric. These tend to be pretty accessories projects, including a 50's style head band that I might have a go at myself. The final section, entitled 'Challenging Yourself', encourages the reader to have a bash at some pattern-free garment and bag making. You are taken through three types of skirt and a reversible bag project by the end of which you may find yourself ready and chomping at the bit to get into more involved dress-making. At that point I'd recommend you attend the 'Introduction to Commercial Sewing Patterns' class I teach at Super+Super HQ in Brighton! (Hahaha! Do you see what I did there?! I sneaked in some subtle self-promotion!)

But back to the book, it really is a beaut, with a very feminine, retro-y aesthetic. If that aesthetic doesn't float your boat, perhaps another beginners sewing book would be more inspirational for you. However, if you are interesting in starting to sew, or know someone else who is, and want a pretty, positive resource to help you on your way, this is a good volume to get hold of. And I have one copy to give away to a blog reader.

To enter, just leave a comment in the comments section of this post telling me why you fancy getting hold of a copy of 'Sew Over It' (no reason, I'm just nosey). If I can't access your email address within two clicks, please include it in your entry comment. Email addresses will not be used for anything other than to contact you if you are the lucky winner of this giveaway. This giveaway is open internationally and winner will receive the book completely free of charge. The giveaway entries will close at midnight GMT Sunday 4th November and the winner will be chosen by random number generator and contacted Monday 5th November October. Good luck, my book-loving friends!

'How to Change the World' by John-Paul Flintoff

If you read my review of his previous title, 'Sew Your Own', you'll know that I find author and journalist John-Paul Flintoff something of an inspiration. I felt he had lots to bring to our lovely sewing-blogging community through his thought-provoking discussions into the wider motivations and implications behinds the clothes-making activities that we so enjoy. 'Sew Your Own', for me, opened lots of avenues of thought, and raised some questions I was desperate to put to Mr Flintoff, so I was utterly thrilled when he agreed to spend some of his valuable time answering them for a small interview that I posted here. Then a couple of months ago I received an email from him sent to potentially interested parties announcing that his latest book, 'How to Change the World', had been published. I was definitely an interested party.  

In the interest of full openness and honesty, I received a copy of this book for free. This is because I was cheeky enough to ask for one, not because he or his publishing company were attempting to solicit favourable reviews. However, a favourable review is what I must give it because that is what it deserves. 

The simplest way to describe this publication is as a 21st Century self-help book, but the associations that may conjure do it a disservice. This book lays a path to help anyone with a drive to affect any change beyond their own internal world find their voice and harness their effectiveness to start to do what they feel could or should be done. Unlike a traditional self-help tome, 'How to Change the World' is small, succinct and measured, and this form makes his arguments all the stronger. With a potential mini-epihany on almost every page, he gives the reader the space and respect to apply his points to their own hopes and plans, without lacing each point with lashings of unnecessary or distracting examples or personal tangents. Which is not to say you feel detached from the author: Flintoff's deep desire for the reader to fulfil their own world-changing potential is what keeps this book warm and driven. Oh, and it's a great size book to buy if you're a commuter!

This little book has helped me see that my personal interest in and endeavours towards changing the world are very much valid, and in fact are already more defined and engaged than I had really realised. At times I feel guilty for focussing so much of my efforts on just trying to change my own and other people's habits of consuming clothing rather than spreading my efforts out over a broader range of environmental and social issues. But in fact Flintoff proves we are at our most effective when we fight for the causes that most inspire and impassion us. I'll definitely revisit this book again when my personal interests, views and missions inevitably shift or refocus. After I've lent my copy of this book to everyone I know, of course! 

Stripey Stretch Dress

If this dress could talk and you got close enough to hear it, it would be saying, 'Here's the hips, here's the bum, here's the boobs, there's the legs down there....'. Basically it would just be spouting a list of the body parts it does not leave to the imagination!

I made this dress back in December, but haven't got round to posting about it until now. I was planning on taking some nice photos of it during the first evening I wore it which was just before Christmas. But that evening I ended up getting engaged instead, so all thoughts of photographic endeavours went out of the window!

It's made from some hefty knitted fabric I was able to snare from work. It is stretchy enough to not require any fastenings, but really thick so I don't feel every lump and bump is exposed and it can be worn in colder seasons with opaque tights and another layer (like my new bolero shrug, as pictured above). I like that the two different fabrics give a kind of trompe-l'œil effect as if I'm wearing a top and skirt instead of a dress. It's a total cheat's way of appearing to have well coordinating clothing! And the VERY best thing about it? You can eat as much as you like whilst wearing it!!! Nothing digs in and tries to tell you 'That's enough chocolate pudding now, Zoe'.

I really didn't have to try very hard to make this dress. The pattern is basically straight out of the Sew U: Home Stretch book (which I used a couple of years ago back in Spain here and here). It's the dress pattern included in the book with slightly adapted sleeves and a scoop neck. I'm really struggling to find details to share with you about this project! I've said it before and I'll say it again, if you are interested in learning to sew with jersey and knit fabrics but aren't sure where to start, you really should get a copy of this book. It demystifies the whole construction process and techiniques, and the patterns included in the book are a good place to start to work on creating your perfect stretch patterns. All my stretchy fabric patterns that I've developed for myself include elements from those original patterns.

If pushed, there are two things I'd probably change if I were to make this again (and I may well, if I come across some appropriate thick jersey, knit or sweatshirting). I'd probably make the neck binding strip a touch narrower, and I'd make the skirt length a fair chunk longer! When I'm walking around in this, I really can't feel if my arse is covered or not! Plus, if it was a bit longer, I'd have some enough fabric to re-hem the bottom when it stretches out and starts to look wierd, as I predict it will. The good thing about creating it in two separate sections (top and bottom) though, is that I could easily cut away the skirt section and make a new one if that bit starts to spoil the top.

Ooh, it looks a bit Beetlejuice in the picture above, doesn't it?! Well, in that case, it's showtime!!!

A Word With John-Paul Flintoff

Have you ever read a book that, upon completion, made you think, 'I really enjoyed that, what the author had to say really chimed with me and it's given me lots to think about. But, AGH!!!, now I want to know a bit more about them and their views!'? Well, after reading 'Sew Your Own' by John-Paul Flintoff, I told my mates about it and wrote a post about it on this blog because I felt it focussed on issues that deserve peops spending some brain-time on. The inclusive and accessible nature of his writing and his obvious willingness to engage with people, whether they had anything directly to offer him or not, made me feel he might enjoy a bit of reader participation. So I found his email address (which really didn't require as much internet-stalking as I was prepared to undertake!) and let him know about the post, which had garnered some lovely positive comments from my readers by that point, plus inspired a few sales I might add. He sent a charming response which put pay to the adage, 'Never (e-)meet your heroes'!

But as the book addressed many of the topics that I usually have running through my head, and in fact added more facets to those topics, I really wanted to pick his brains on a few things plus get a bit of an update on his crafting-activities since the the book was published. So I chanced my arm, having already made contact with him, and he graciously agreed to a mini-interview which I would, of course, love to share with you...

Me: Your book was first published in 2009, are you still making and modifying your own clothes?

J-P: Yes, very much so, though I've found it hard to do as much as I would like to do. This week I invisibly mended a second-hand Harris Tweed jacket I bought in Edinburgh last Xmas. I also bought recently a rather girly piece of fabric (floral, washed out) that I thought looks very slightly like camouflage and am planning to macho it up a bit, if you see what I mean, but making a fitted military style shirt with epaulettes and two front pockets.

Me: Have you been allowed to apply your skills to your wife’s wardrobe yet?

J-P: Harriet, eventually convinced that I knew what I was doing, asked me to make her a pair of jeans, which was a huge breakthrough in itself. I bought the denim, with a bit of stretch in it, but subsequently decided never actually to get around to making the jeans because if I did, and she didn't like them, she would feel bad and I would feel bad too. The great thing was to be asked. Having said that, I did make her a loose blouse for her birthday, which she seems to like.

Me: Do you teach your daughter your make-do and mend skills?

J-P: It's very slow progress. She doesn't want to be taught, as such. She has enough lessons as it is. So I have to do it "inadvertently". One thing I do is repair her beloved teddy, as holes appear at regular intervals. It's like painting the Forth Bridge. I told her that one day when I'm very old she will have to do the darning herself. She consented to let me buy her a little sewing kit, in preparation for that terrible eventuality. Also, she recently had a sewing party for her birthday (not my choice, as it happens) and was also given presents (by others) that have to do with sewing. So I think it will happen.

Me: How have your investigations into climate change, Peak Oil and sweatshop labour effected your buying habits?

J-P: I have become a terrible consumer - or a good one, depending on how you look at things. I buy very little indeed, which is not doing much for economic growth. When I do buy, it is often second-hand. I don't think about this very much, it's become almost instinctive. I recently went into a clothes shop and thought, oh, yes, there are shops. But it got to a point where my obsession with home-made was becoming a bit obsessive. I needed a break. So Harriet just went to Gap and bought me some corduroy jeans and I have to say I like them very much. I don't have a clue what kind of conditions they were made in, or who grew the cotton, with what kind of inputs, but it's really important, I think, to learn to relax and recognise that we can't fix everything.

Me: Considering the damaging effect of fabric production, but consumer’s desire to support local independent fabric shops, is it ethical to buy new fabric or should we seek out existing unused fabric to sew our clothes with?

J-P: I do think it's a good idea to seek out unused fabric, obviously. But it would be a fairly miserable world if nobody were able to make new things, ever.

Me: What can someone who lives in London do to prevent sweatshop labour

J-P: Well, buying clothes from a place that makes a point of sourcing clothes ethically is one idea, but it's likely to be a bit more expensive, and not everybody can afford that. A cheaper solution might be to buy second-hand clothes, which may of course have been produced ethically, but by reusing you are reducing the impact of that a bit, I think. (Halving the bad karma, if you like, of the previous owner.) The absolute best option is to make things yourself: there is no sweatshop labour in my house, and nobody is exploited in the making of my garments.

Me: How do you remain positive despite all the realities of Peak Oil, climate change, global inequality and the reluctance of political leaders to effectively address these issues?

J-P: I think there is no option but to remain positive. It's difficult at times not to feel a bit glum, but actually I think that moving away from expecting anything whatever from political or other leaders is rather rewarding: you recognise that you can make a real difference yourself, and if you work with enough other people the political change you want to see will happen automatically. The alternative is very disempowering: to think that things will only be "fixed" by somebody else, eg, government.

Me: Have you considered starting your own craft/sustainability blog? Your approach and engaging writing style would make it a massive hit with the on-line creative community!

J-P: Thank you very much! I would love to do that, but it's hard to find the time to do all the things I want to do and also document them. I do blog occasionally about things that interest me, but not only about craft and sustainability. http://jpflintoff.tumblr.com/

I would like to thank John-Paul enormously for taking the time to answer my questions so thoughtfully. And if you have any mates that have taken an interest in DIY activities, you could so easily flow them a copy of 'Sew Your Own' this Christmas which may provide them with the motivation to start their own creative journey!