tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post5183485181339306861..comments2024-01-24T11:28:22.701+00:00Comments on 'So, Zo...': Jeggings Attempts #1 and #2Zoehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10893813529679767893noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-68926876041530931222017-08-24T15:15:56.747+01:002017-08-24T15:15:56.747+01:00There was a so called „workshop“ on a german sewin...There was a so called „workshop“ on a german sewing forum in 2013.<br /><br />http://naehfabrik.forumprofi.de/workshop-archiv-2013-f563/aktuell-workshop-schnittkonstruktion-damenhose-t3267.html<br /><br />I found it just four months ago - and for the first time in my 20-years-sewing career I have now a pants-pattern that suits my body.<br /><br />I know it’s in german and for normal pants, not leggins, but perhaps it can help someone in the future and there are photos.<br /><br />in sum:<br /><br />It’s not so important to draw your own pattern but you have to mark the grainline and the orthogonal horizontal lines for crotch and mid-bum area on your muslin.<br /><br />This lines should stay straight.<br /><br />For example: If the mid-bum-lines forms a v-shape, then crotch-depth is to short - wenn the grainline isn’t vertical, but tend to the middle in the back, then you have to add there material, even if then the waist is to lose. the excess fabric you can take away on the sides or by darts …<br />you have just to keep these lines more or less vertical / horizontal …<br /><br />But you have to take care not to produce some pants just for standing around …<br /><br />kind regards<br />eveAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-55950980783403397932017-08-21T15:38:22.149+01:002017-08-21T15:38:22.149+01:00I've recently been through this same process! ...I've recently been through this same process! I was shocked when I saw the rear view on my first run of a copy cat pair of pants! http://tracykm.blogspot.ca/2017/05/pants.html<br />I made a second pair and I don't think I changed anything except the fabric http://tracykm.blogspot.ca/2017/07/brown-pants-or-how-to-copy-your.html since I wasn't really aware when I started, how the blue ones looked yet.<br />I played with pinning the side seams smaller and while that did reduce the under bum wrinkles, I could tell I wouldn't be able to bend. I also thought I needed to raise the front crotch and scoop the back, but I don't think I did that for the next pair. What I have learned through trial and error is that a very small adjustment can make a huge impact. I used to scoff at the idea of taking in just a 1/4". But multiplied by the four edges, that's a whole inch! <br />For my third pair, I did take in the sides http://tracykm.blogspot.ca/2017/08/back-to-beige.html. I should really do a photo shoot with all three pairs plus the originals. I never thought I had droopy bum with the originals, though that fabric was a crisper feel, though same weight. I think I did add a wedge, or took out a wedge...I should compare to my original pants pieces. <br />I also think we get too critical when looking at our pictures. How often are we standing straight, nice and still, for more than a few seconds? I think if the fit feels really good, then perhaps that should be enough. But then I look at the pictures and think...if I just zipped off a little here and added a little there...<br />TracyKMhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07498896222222982320noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-7051501231023559712017-08-14T10:53:48.787+01:002017-08-14T10:53:48.787+01:00I like your topic of selection for blog but want t...I like your topic of selection for blog but want to suggest you for sharing some more information regarding your subject so that we can understand your thought more clearly <br /> <a href="http://www.abcya4.com" rel="nofollow">abcya</a> |<a href="http://www.abcya7.com" rel="nofollow">abcya 7</a> | <a href="http://www.brainpop4.com" rel="nofollow">brainpop</a><br />starfallhttp://www.starfall2games.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-56820621685268066462017-08-14T05:44:14.528+01:002017-08-14T05:44:14.528+01:00Zoë...I'm pretty much just lurking the comment...Zoë...I'm pretty much just lurking the comments... :D. I never did get my Clover pants to fit right....in fact blew out the butt seam in a store picking up a case of water. Ha! I got my Junipers to fit by quasi-cheating. I cut the crotch an inch lower on all pieces, and cut the rear legs a size up from the front, then just took in the seams until I got them where I wanted them. I love them now! I've got my Ginger pattern and $200 in denim sitting because I'm honestly not feeling confident in my "Mickey Mousing it" method- American slang for questionable methods. :DBecky Johttp://sewbeckyjo.com/noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-85837737292901803742017-08-13T15:58:04.247+01:002017-08-13T15:58:04.247+01:00I've been in trouser fitting hell for the past...I've been in trouser fitting hell for the past few weeks so I definitely feel your pain. I've just done a Craftsy jeans fitting class that made the "scooping" out the back crotch curve make sense to me. It seems counter intuitive and like you're taking fabric away when you should be adding it but what you're really doing is making space. You're adding room for your bum in the trousers and because the adjustment is downwards rather than sideways it shouldn't mean you need to add anything onto the side seams. It helps the wrinkles underneath your bum because you've taken away some of that excess fabric to give your bum more room. Leighhttp://www.cluelessseamstress.co.uknoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-62238843643982707802017-08-13T15:14:35.213+01:002017-08-13T15:14:35.213+01:00I have exactly the same problem in trousers. I alw...I have exactly the same problem in trousers. I always got the under-bum wrinkles. I think it is because I have a flat bum compared to the rest of me. I am peeing myself laughing at Vintagerockchick's comment above. "Kardashianed". :) XxMother of Reinventionhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14409826036412353940noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-17180155233456484062017-08-12T12:37:42.037+01:002017-08-12T12:37:42.037+01:00I devoured this post with much interest Zoe, as I ...I devoured this post with much interest Zoe, as I have the same problem with under-bum wrinklage - in fact, if you ever perfect it, sell it as a pattern - I'll be first in the queue. And in the past (years ago) I did a pattern cutting course and made my own trouser block and still wasn't over the moon with the results. I know I have a low slung, flat bum, so I'm not sure whether to persevere in my pant-fitting quest, or just to save up to have my buttocks surgically Kardashianed. Gill xvintagerockchickhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11771490446494303513noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-74623596066301222242017-08-11T19:18:20.076+01:002017-08-11T19:18:20.076+01:00Thank you all so much for the encouragement and id...Thank you all so much for the encouragement and ideas! I'm definitely going to try another version in a month or so and will report back of course...<br /><br />@Ana, you are the sweetest! Thanks so much for your kind offer, however I couldn't allow you to waste your time drafting me a trouser block when I'm sure you have heaps of your own sewing projects to be getting on with. I think I'm close to being happy with these, I don't think I need to start with a whole new pattern at this point, fingers crossed! Thanks again lovely lady xxx<br /><br />Zoehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10893813529679767893noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-5399848333604330212017-08-11T14:33:47.811+01:002017-08-11T14:33:47.811+01:00Trousers are hard to fit! I see there are a couple...Trousers are hard to fit! I see there are a couple of suggestions already that I generally agree with (Fabric Tragic and Anonymous), but I'll add a short note. I was given this advice on fitting once, and it has served me well - if you cut into the fabric in the problem area, what happens? Does the fabric want to overlap, and how? Does it spread, and in which direction? <br /><br />This might not always be feasible, but looking at your pictures and preforming this as a thought experiment I am leaning towards extra fabric needing to be pinched out right under the bum, as it looks like the fabric would want to overlap if it were cut apart.<br /><br />I hope all of us rooting for you is encouragement! :)Birgittehttp://www.indigorchid.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-16695836429053750842017-08-11T14:02:00.019+01:002017-08-11T14:02:00.019+01:00The butt is a fascinating fitting problem, it'...The butt is a fascinating fitting problem, it's hard to tell but it looks like a depth problem, i.e. the wrinkles are diagonal rather than horizontal or vertical. This means that the pattern needs some adjustment in both a horizontal and vertical dimension i.e. a wedge of fabric needs to be either added or taken away. The question is does the wedge need to be added or taken away and at which seams? There is already the suggestion to adjust the side seams and this is perhaps a good place to start, rip up to the place where the diagonal creases originate at the side seam and adjust accordingly. I suspect that more body depth needs to be added to the crotch seam at the back. Do not give up, you are doing a great job, to perfect a fit many designers make 9+ toiles Another approach is simply pin out the wrinkles, opening up any seams as needed if the pining makes it too tight and then unpick and use the pieces for a new pattern. I pinch and pin my wrinkles, then sew them in place and have a look to see if the problem is fixed before I decide if that's a change that makes sense or not. Good luck!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-30220995514010799222017-08-11T12:39:44.481+01:002017-08-11T12:39:44.481+01:00Yes scoop the back crotch only just a bit, it lets...Yes scoop the back crotch only just a bit, it lets the butt cheeks sit slightly lower in the pants which reduces under bum wrinkles.SewRuthiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09277062926597842242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-37132868044274764282017-08-11T12:33:52.094+01:002017-08-11T12:33:52.094+01:00Thoughts..... definitely don't toile as shorts...Thoughts..... definitely don't toile as shorts - I did this recently and missed terrible diagonal drag lines at my knees (apparently means a knock knee or full thigh adjustment). But enough about me.... I think the black ones are really very good. I'd be really pleased with them. From the side view of the blue ones I suspect you have a flat bottom (unlike me, who has a full one). It creates excess fabric under the bum and diagonal lines to the hips. There's a few different tutes around on a flat bottom adjustment. I've come to the conclusion that super stretchy fabrics have a mind of their own when it comes to thigh wrinkles.... it can really be a big unknown. Style Arc has a pattern called the Flat Bottom Flo which is drafted especially for ladies with a flatter bum, might be worth a look? I'm waiting for them to release the Big Bottom Betty.... xxFabric Tragichttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04183274071484362265noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-8030903938414447362017-08-11T11:18:44.626+01:002017-08-11T11:18:44.626+01:00I was about to say making shorts might save you a ...I was about to say making shorts might save you a lot of time? that way you can work out if its a fabric issue or a pattern issue?<br /><br />frankie<br /><br />http://knitwits-owls.blogspot.co.uk/Knitwitsowlshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15341832224447601797noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-50298856076323309182017-08-11T10:36:05.294+01:002017-08-11T10:36:05.294+01:00Just a thought re: toiles & specific fabrics. ...Just a thought re: toiles & specific fabrics. Could you get away with making shorts rather than full length trousers when you toile? Knitlasshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10694849211711608460noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-26435185074839743942017-08-11T07:46:50.430+01:002017-08-11T07:46:50.430+01:00First, I think both tries look great!
Regarding t...First, I think both tries look great! <br />Regarding the wrinkles under the bum - I had the same problem with the ultimates. It may be due to not enough length in the back side seam compared with the crotch. I would suggest adding a bit of length at the side seam at the hip area, and ease it into the front lag piece. It helped me... <br />It will not change the fact each stretch fabric is different though. I thing basting jeggings before final stitching will also help.<br /><br />Like you, I can't tolerate non-stretch pants. But the quality of stretch fabric I can find is so low, it annoys me to put the effort only to have something that won't last. I love the Alexandria peg trousers by Named for that reason - they are made with non-stretch wovens but have enough ease to be really comfortable. Also with non-stretch wovens you don't really need to make so many changes to each pair, and worry about recovery and baggines at the end of the day.<br /><br />My fall goals are: 1. make skinny Gingers, as my RTW of the same shape are my favourite silhouette, althpugh I know the low-quality fabric I'll make them with will bother me (but what other choice do I have? I can't find anything else locally...). 2. Copy an rtw boyfriend jeans I have and make them from non-stretch woven. 3. Hack the Alexandria pattern to have proper waistband and zipper. 4. Try a Luna-Alexandria combo with stretch cotton. I already drafted it, keeping the Luna waistband and crotch curves with the Alexandria leg shape, but I can't bring myself to cut into the fabric, knowing it may fail.<br />Roni Arbelnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-38707527962234839442017-08-11T03:53:32.307+01:002017-08-11T03:53:32.307+01:00Do you think the under-bum wrinkles would bother y...Do you think the under-bum wrinkles would bother you if these were actual jeans? Because that's what that fit area looks like to me - kind of how I'd be pretty happy for a pair of skinny-ish jeans to fit. I guess if you've had store-bought ones that don't do this then you have a really particular fit in mind, however I think these look flattering and comfy!Janehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03255370960186659884noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2464662522153586853.post-28216553289415837262017-08-10T22:53:53.962+01:002017-08-10T22:53:53.962+01:00Hey Zoe!
Last week I remembered your trousers saga...Hey Zoe!<br />Last week I remembered your trousers saga and asked myself: "why do you try to fit a pattern to your body instead of making a trouser pattern block with your measurements?" <br />You know about pattern manipulation so you could start with a basic that's really made for you!<br />I have some training on it, if you send me your measurements I can send you a paper block and you try it out ;)<br /><br />Keep it up*<br />AnaAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18008041953962936441noreply@blogger.com