Sunday, 7 April 2013

Mild-Maternity: Small-to-Medium Bump

(Simplicity 5063 - I made this tunic/smock once before and it came out really nicely, but it was a surprisingly time-consuming sewing project so not sure I can be arsed to make it again. Would be great for up to a medium sized belly though I think, maybe beyond)

Massive thanks to the squillions of awesome people who stopped by to offer their congratulations and leave lovely messages on my previous post, it was thoroughly overwhelming. Here's the more considered follow-up pregnancy planning post I promised. So, as I said in that last post, I'm thinking of my pregnancy and maternity sewing in two stages: small-to-medium bump and medium-to-big bump. This way hopefully I won't get overwhelmed with plans and schemes. Plus as my belly becomes enormous, I have no idea how much other junk may appear in my trunk, so there's no point worrying about that for a while.

(Made by Rae Washi Dress and Tunic pattern - I just bought this. I've had my eye on this pattern for a while, even though it's not really what I'd consider to be 'my style' these days, it's just so pretty. I think both a dress and tunic version would be great, plus there's some nice pattern hacks out there including adding sleeves and a Peter Pan collar)

The main thing I've been getting my head round regarding any sewing I'll be doing in the next six months is the change of silhouette. As you may know, my dream wardrobe would be filled with (self-stitched) late-50's/early-60's retro style garments. I loves me an hourglass hugging wiggle dress, capri pants, fitted little blouses, cute cardi's and so on. To be honest that's not how I dress very often in real life. Most of the time I'm in skinny jeans, jersey tops or blouses and cardigans. But my main sewing aim for this year was to try and connect 'what I actually wear' with 'what I'd like to wear'. Plus as we all know, sewing is often about fantasy, and although I'm usually pretty good at making things I'll actually wear, fantasies must be indulged from time to time. But I've realised I'm going to have to let go of that for sometime and step away from the retro-hottie image I'd like to think I was just a few garments away from embodying! I can of course bring in elements of my ideal styles into what I make for pregnancy. But I'm not going to be using any of my precious vintage fabric, for example. It's time to concentrate on super practical sewing. Shit's going to get pretty smock-y up in here!

(Style 3590 - I must have bought this during an eBay frenzy, mighty glad I did though. I think it's got great mild-maternity potential with lots of variation options. Should I make a dress or tunic version do you think? Are we thinking contrast neckline and sleeve cuffs or not? Or make a feature from some ace contrast buttons?)

So I been having a good old think about what I reckon I'll need and realistically how much I'll be able to get sewn over the next couple of months. Plus just as I don't know how big I'm going to become towards the end of my pregnancy, I also don't have a clue what kind of shape/size I'll be post-pregnancy. Therefore I'm hoping that with some strategic sewing for this first pregnancy stage, of some the garments that are more 'roomy' than specifically 'maternity', I'm hoping most will be wearable when I 'come out the other side'! My aim, as usual, is also to do all this sewing exclusively with fabric from my enormous stash, rather than buying any new fabric, as far as possible. Here's what I think I'll need:
  • A few pairs of jeans/jeggings/trousers: I'm plotting a reproduction of my super-comfy elasticated-waist jeggings but with a lowered and wider waist-band. I also have a couple of second-hand pairs of shop-bought jeggings that were previously too big for me which should fit at certain intervals of large-ness. As I approach medium-to-big bump, I'm planning on cutting them down and adding jersey bands to the tops like this or cutting away the pocket mouths and adding jersey to the area like this

(Wiksten Tova Pattern - I used to be obsessed with this top before she released it as an actual pattern, and by the time she did my style had changed. It's mighty nice though. I've heard it's quite an involved project, which I could potentially be bothered to undertake. However, can anyone who has made this please let me know if you think it could accommodate a small-to-medium baby bump as it is, or would I have to do some adjusting? Thanks in advance for your thoughts)

  • A few long T-shirts/jersey tops: Later down the line I'll obvs be cracking out my maternity jersey top tutorial to make some accommodating tops, but in the meantime I'm pretty sure some longer length jersey tops with a bit more width around the middle should see me through. Jersey tops are so comfortable and can be layered so easily with vests underneath and cardigans on top when needed. They are my staple garment at all other times so I can't see that during pregnancy I'm going to feel differently towards them!  
  • A few woven tunics/tops: These will be a bit dressier than jersey tops which I may need for going out and for teaching in. Once again I'm going to focus on longer length styles, a 'deficit' of fabric isn't going to be welcome, especially if my jersey-topped jeans refashions don't come out looking very professional! My lady-like pussy bow blouse already fits this bill for the smaller stage of bump actually, as it is quite loose and a good length. I've also been hunting the internets and my own pattern collection for tunic-y styles that I may choose to make (this post is illustrated with them). 

(Butterick B5639 - I'm showing you this lady's beautiful version because the pattern envelope is incredibly uninspiring. Has anyone used this pattern? Do you think it's any size of baby-belly friendly? Or could be with some hacking and spreading out?)

  • A couple of dresses: Allegedly Spring will come and it apparently that means it'll get warmer, plus some variety from jeggings and tops might be welcome, so a couple of dresses might be nice. Patty and I have a little trip to Madrid planned for the end of May to visit a friend, so I'm crossing my fingers that I'll get to see some sunshine then at least. Initially I'm thinking about woven dresses, but I may have a go at something in jersey if the whim takes me. Some of the tunic patterns I either already have or have my sights on are also dress patterns, or they could easily become so. 
  • Tights: If the dresses go well, tights are going to be needed, for the UK at least. I'm going to take some of my existing pairs and try a mini-version of the jersey top jeans refashion on them. If that doesn't go well, I'll go old-school and actually buy some from a shop. Who knew that was an option?!

(Simplicity 3799 - Now PLEASE try to ignore the horrendous envelope design and fabric choices. Look at those top and dress patterns, totally maternity. Could be made much cooler in lovely fabric with a contrast neck band. Might amplify the maternity-ness of this and make it towards the end of my pregnancy when I've got a trip to Alicante in Southern Spain planned)

For everything else (jackets, cardigans, vests, pants, pyjamas etc.) my existing stuff should be fine. 

So, those who have been a pregnant lady, what are your thoughts on my list? Do you think those items will see me through up to medium-bump? Am I missing something glaringly obvious? Also, if anyone else is in a similar point in life (or hopes to be soon) and is interested in following my maternity sewing considerations more closely, you can follow my 'Preggers Stuff' Pinterest board. It has lots more patterns, tutorials and ideas for maternity sewing with some preliminary baby sewing ideas thrown in there too.

(Sew Libertated The Esme Top - Pretty similar to the Wiksten Tova pattern, except it's not available as a PDF which is a shame. I like it for the same reasons as the Tova and most of the others, it also looks hella wearable post-pregnancy. What do you think, Tova or Esme? Who wins?)


katherine h said...

Kristy at Lower Your Presser Foot made a heap of maternity clothes during her 2 pregnancies, if you are looking for ideas

Kate said...

I made a Tova last year when I was first pregnant. I added some fullness in the front so it would fit a bit longer. It was fantastic for just after I had the baby too. Being my 3rd pregnancy I was a little over pregnancy clothes so I stuck with jersey dresses made from mostly non maternity patterns, anything with a seam under the bust so you can add a few extra gathers if there aren't any in the pattern is great and they fit the entire pregnancy, and after. I made a few with cross over tops so they would be good afterwards for feeding and jersey is so comfortable, especially when you are feeling a bit bigger than normal. Enjoy the next few months - It is so exciting!

Lisa said...

Great ideas. I will steal some of these ideas for when I get pregnant again. Only a comment on wearing your existing jackets and things - sometimes your bust size will increase sooooo much that you can't even fit jackets you thought would last. I went from a B cup to DD so was pretty busty!

Suzy said...

They look like great maternity patterns. I made quite a few things from Japanese pattern books for my last pregnancy, because they tend to be a bit smock-like.
I was thinking recently that Simplicity 2451 could be adapted for maternity - if you cut a size bigger than usual so the yoke sat a little bit lower, then made the front yoke in a stretchy fabric or jersey, and changed the back waistband to an elastic casing & added a bit of width to the back and then elastic instead of a zip... I had a bought maternity denim skirt I wore to death that kind of worked like that and was really comfortable. You need to wear a longer top, because the front waistband looks a bit strange being a different fabric, but it's comfortable & practical.

Xenia Kathryn said...

The Tova would be a GREAT maternity top, I think!

I sewed up 3 Tovas this past October, right after my daughter was born. For some reason I just HAD to have 3 cozy, flannel Tovas for my post-partum period (felt a little less sloppy than a sweatshirt, plus, very forgiving).

If i can sew 3 Tovas one month after having my 4th child, you can most definitely pull this off! It's actually quite simple and fast to sew.

Simplicty 2702 is a lovely tunic which I used twice during my pregnancy. I did some modified Sorbetto dresses and Darling Ranges, both of which were fast projects.

I blogged a bit about some of my garments here (

Like Suzy said, Japanese pattern books have some good stuff. I recently purchased "Stylish Dress book: Dress with Freedom" and wish I'd had sooner, during my pregnancy!

Catherine said...

These look ood patterns for the early stages.... I would suggest making a few (2?) BIG dresses now ...for later on when you are :
A) too big to fit behind the sewing machine
B) too tired to sew
C) can't believe you don't fit into anything but still have 2-3 weeks to go....

You will look super cute in those choices. E-mail me your address if you would like the burda pregnancy issue that I used when pregnant, plus several other tunic type pattern sitting unloved in the stash now I have no intention of having more (3 boys is perfect!)

Ckirby at clkdesigns dot co dot uk

Again good luck and enjoy

Ps saw someone wearing a "hands off the bump" t shirt yesterday - thought of you!!

Carolyn said...

I think your plans look terrific. I have three children, and wore the same clothes during each; I had one pair of maternity jeans, one maternity denim dress/pinafore thing, about three or four blouses and two other outfits from one pattern (3/4 trousers and a matching buttoned shirt). I didn't need anything else, but was pretty sick of everything by the end of it, so I was pleased to get into new, svelte-er stuff for after each of the babies were born.

twistedyarns said...

I have made a few Tovas (I'm finishing up one just now, actually), and as said before, I think it should work great for the mid-to-medium bump. You could always add a bit of fullness to the front.
And it's not an overly involved make - once you get the principle of it, they're actually really fast to put together.

twistedyarns said...

As has been said here, I think the Tova would be great for at least the mild-to-medium bump.
I've made a few, and after getting over my confusion about the plackets (which really was MY confusion, not the patterns), found them quick and easy to put together.

twistedyarns said...

As has been said here, I think the Tova would be great for at least the mild-to-medium bump.
I've made a few, and after getting over my confusion about the plackets (which really was MY confusion, not the patterns), found them quick and easy to put together.

Tammy said...

When I was pregnant I found trousers the hardest thing to source. I wore a lot of drawstring linen trousers first time which I tied under my bump. I also loved a pair of trousers from new look maternity which looked like normal trousers but had a 3 inch elasticated waistband. The waistband was a lovely soft knit with a stiff elastic inside. I know you don't "do" the high street but it might be worth you looking around at the construction/styles. I hated trousers that laid across my bump, so anything with a panel section was a no no for me, apart from a few leggings with a long crotch that I wore pulled up over entire bump, I lived in trousers that sat below my bump.

Tammy said...

Also don't wait till you need the next size to make it. I found that I slowly grew then would just wake up one morning to find my bump appeared double the size ha ha. Around 5.5 months most women seem to just pop out overnight, and again around 8 months.

Philippa said...

I like all your ideas, especially the tunic patterns. Going on experience (3 children) I would say the Esme top would look stylish if you are large 'up top' as the neckline looks very flattering, if you are thinking of wearing them afterwards and are hoping to breastfeed (sorry to be so practical!) you will need to add some fullness probably to be able to lift it up. Jersey tunic styles or styles with front buttons are ideal for pregnancy/post pregnancy crossover as the flow over your body which can be more flattering than something fitted. It did occur to me a style you might like that is also quick to make is an elasticated scoop neck peasant type top. You could make the bottom quite triangley to accommodate the bump. I think they were quite popular with capris in the eras you love x

Kestrel said...

I've nearly finished my Tova and didn't find it too tricky. I still have room to grow in it, and I'm 24 weeks now. Like you say, the first stage of bump only needs a bit more room and it's hard to know how big you'll get.
I've got a few loose tops from charity shops and bought maternity jeans from eBay, though had to buy new ones in the end since was having trouble getting them long enough for me.
Have fun sewing!

MrsAlex said...

I found layers were great and gave lots of flexibility. Tights - try Evans or one of the plus-size companies - they have an extra panel at the back to accommodate larger bottoms, so just turn them round for bump-fitting tights.

becstitches said...

I've never been pregnant, but this dress I made, made me look pregnant, so maybe it will be great in the front for the baby bump? :)

Ginny said...

Your plans look great- some nice styles there! A lot of similar things to those I made during my pregnancy. I too sewed for two stages of bump-size and it worked out quite well. As someone commented though, get some things made NOW for later down the line. I couldn't comfortably fit behind the machine by about 7 months! On the issue of trousers, I agree with Tammy- I hated waistbands across my bump and preferred styles that sat below. I had the New Look maternity jeans too that had the jersey panels at the pockets and liked them best for the full 9 months.

I shouldn't worry too much about making them wearable post-pregnancy. By that point you'll probably be so sick of them you'll stuff them in a box out of sight at the first opportunity!

SparrowsAndSpools said...

Congratulations! The Tova pattern is great - I don't think it's too involved, especially for an experienced seamstress such as yourself. I imagine it'd be great for a small-to-medium bump because it's pretty roomy on the bottom half. Happy sewing!

Hearth said...

Not much in the way of suggestions for now, but if you're going to be extremely pregnant in the summer, make yourself some enormous sundresses in light fabrics.

With late pregnancy you are also warmer than you normally are, so plan for that.


liza jane said...

Smock tops for early pregnancy are a great idea. There is a weird beginning stage of looking not completely pregnant but still being too big for regular clothes. At least that's what I found. Then at about seven months my belly popped! And was huge! Then I wore stretchy tops. I had really good luck with burda magazine maternity patterns. And keep in mind how your bust will change- and early on. I went from a b to d right away!

Roobeedoo said...

I would recommend jersey swing dresses and leggings as a go-to comfy outfit. I hated having anything that fit too closely around my belly - tights either fell down or made me feel cut in half. Button-hole elastic is your friend (it has buttonholes in it and you move it to a looser hole as you get bigger).
A lot of women get enormously busty and stay that way while breastfeeding - so you might want something with a wrap-front that can be adjusted as you grow.
Good luck and happy sewing!

Jennie said...

Congratulations! I had big sewing plans during my pregnancy, but between working fulltime & feeling sick for a long time, I never really got around to making myself any maternity clothes. My baby boy 11 days old today & I'd like to make some nursing clothes, not quite sure when I'll find the time though :)

eline said...

Congratulations! I think the clothes you plan on sewing are a great choice. :-)
I was pregnant last year and what hit me most was that my bust was a lot bigger than pre-pregnancy (a lot of my tops didn't fit me anymore already in early pregnancy...) and also that it's not only your belly that grows: one morning you'll wake up and your waist will be gone... So I would make sure to choose a size or model that's got enough ease, not only for your bump ;-)

Liz said...

Good plans. Do be prepared for your back to get wider as well as getting a bit more busty so don't fit anything too tightly on top. I found winter coats to be a bit tricky - it might be an idea to look out in the charity shops for an a-line winter jacket in a slightly larger size than usual or a cape or something like that if you haven't got anything suitable. Trousers will be the most useful things you can make / adapt and your plans seem about right - I liked mine with elastic right over the bump for a bit of support, but many people don't.

MrsC (Maryanne) said...

All lovely ideas Zo. Seems to my observation of the bazillion pregnant people I know, that they really don't have a lot of maternity clothes. They live in the same three or four outfits. I'd say, try out the thing you reckon has the most use, and if you love it, make one or two more. Given the short amount of time you need this stuff (although it may not seem so short!) a bit of a capsule wardrobe shoudl do it! :)

jo90 said...

I would say don't make anything too big until you progress into your pregnancy a bit. You may not get really big and don't want to waste time!! With my first pregnancy I just wore things a couple of sizes bigger and embraced knits. I also found that fitted or stretchy things looked better, looser stuff made me look like a house end!!

Elisha said...

I think I'm the exact same pregnant as you right now (16 weeks). It's my second pregnancy, so I'm just wearing the same clothes from my first. I'll be altering some of my maternity pants into shorts and long sleeves into short sleeves, as I'm pregs a different season this go 'round. I might be trying some of the tutes from Megan Nielsen's DIY maternity site as well.

Toward the end of my last pregnancy, I wore jersey maxi dresses that were not intended as maternity, and lots of tees and stretch pants. Not proud, but it is what it is.

Jen said...

While some people have success with empire-waist dresses, some of us get pretty busty when we're pregnant and having to do an extra FBA can be a pain in the bum, especially if you're doing it at the beginning of the pregnancy and your bust continues to enlarge. I think layering is always a good thing, especially during the colder months, since a pinafore-type dress can allow you to continue to wear shirts that no longer cover your bump. And as some others mentioned, pregnant ladies often get overheated due to hormones, so if you make any tops, I'd be more inclined to make short-sleeved ones and throw a cardigan on top during the cooler weather. This way you can wear them in the warmer weather, sans cardigan.

I find a tunic can work well with leggings in the colder months if it's longer because you can wear it as a dress when it's warmer out, though later in pregnancy really baggy clothing can make you feel as big as the broad side of a barn, especially if your body changes the way mine did during my first pregnancy - I ended up with 54" hips and couldn't find maternity trousers that fit, since that was before Old Navy and other stores started making maternity in XL and XXL sizes. Luckily that didn't happen with my next 2. :) And sometimes you just want to feel pretty and sexy - some time in the 2nd trimester when you're feeling really good and not too huge. Megan Nielsen makes a pencil skirt pattern for knits and I think it could be really cute. I just bought it and it's on my list of things to make for spring/summer, along with my tankini. And I don't know if it makes any difference to you, but if you plan on having more than 1 child, it's always good to think about classic styles or at least styles you like so that in subsequent pregnancies you don't have to make more maternity clothes. My current maternity wardrobe has very little of the things that I made during my first pregnancy, for various reasons, but almost every single piece is from my 2nd pregnancy, many of them second-hand, and that was 6.5 years ago. And if you're planning on breastfeeding, I highly recommend buying/making tops that are maternity and nursing styles, since those first few weeks after delivery you'll still have a bump, albeit a smaller one.

Flavie said...

I also sew and found the most perfect solution for small, medium en big bumps. I made myself a couple of jersey dresses, looking a not like Burda 7828. It has a flattering line, conceals a little bump and emphasises a big one. Those dresses were about the onely things that were comfortable the last months. Though not very retro in form, the print you choose can determine a lot. Check for exampele the blog "mina dotter" (Belgian), she has some wonderfull versions.

Rachel said...

I wore my Vogue 1027 dresses constantly while pregnant. Very flattering, made of jersey, can use the pattern for mon-maternity times too. And fits a little bump and a big bump. Congratulations!!

Veronica Darling said...

I wore dresses galore (as mentioned, tight fitting ones) during my pregnancy and after Baby Darling was born, I was devastated that I needed tops and bottoms (for nursing/feeding access)... or button up/zipper fronted dresses. I had no time to sew, so my advice is to keep up your tops and bottoms style (and yes, I wear leggings a lot now) and you'll be fantastic after your baby is born too!


Mikhaela said...

I did a lot of maternity sewing when pregnant and I think your plans look great. I had to start doing some crazy FBAs (I went from E, to F, to G very quickly and my rib-cage expanded too, so it was from 32E to 36G—quite a leap!). Tops have to be long with some extra width or gathering or stretch in front because they have more length to go over with the bump.

I made a lot of knit skirts or skirts with knit waistbands—yoga-style waistbands with no actual elastic, just a doubled layer of spandex-blend knit that could be folded over.

I also made maternity sleep bras and maternity panties since I hated RTW ones...

And I made a 70s belted waist maternity dress for when I was super big.

Links to all my maternity sewing and posts here if you find them helpful. Congratulations and have fun—I love maternity sewing!

Maria said...

Hi, Zoe, and congratulations again! I was just pregnant myself, had lots of plans for sewing, and made nearly nothing. So, I hope you can do better, but don´t stress yourself- you have a baby to build! Anyhow, for jeans I found these two tutorials:
I made a skirt similar to the first tutorial and loved it- so comfortable!! And this sounds nice and fast:
Also, if you want to breastfeed, I would think about that now and make more seperates or things with openings. Especially since you need something to accomodate your growing bust, too. I am exited to see what you make!

Trixie said...

Congratulations, Zoe! I've never been pregnant and certainly have no immediate plans, so can't be of much use I'm afraid, but I was wondering if you'd come accross Megan Nielson patterns? Most of their patterns are for maternity and nursing so might be super useful for medium-big bump.

Kieran said...

Hi Zoe! Have you looked into Megan Nielson maternity? Her ruched maternity skirt looks like it would be a more "you" style item that you could wear while pregnant, and she has a few other great options too!

Olga said...

Hi, Zoe!

Tova top should be fine for a pregnancy top (watch out for the bust measurement though, as I am not busty at all, and the size M fit me fine throughout pregnancy without small bust adjustments). Also, I think that Tova top looks good tucked in, if you make it from thin fabric, so you could wear it even after you are pregnant and no longer need a tent to cover your belly.
I agree with the Japanese pattern book suggestions -- loose tops and dresses were my style before pregnancy, and I was able to wear my Japanese book dresses that I already had throughout pregnancy as well.
Re: woven maternity tops, I would recommend making dresses instead. (Tova top is an exception, but it may not fit without adjustments in the later part of your pregnancy if your bump gets huge.) I got some RTW woven maternity top hand-me-downs when I was pregnant, and did not wear any of them b/c I felt like a huge cow in them. I would stick with jersey tops (I just wore my non-pregnancy longer stretchy t-shirts), and if you want to "dress up", go for dresses (woven or knit). A short(ish) dress looks way better than a tunic and pants when you have a belly, in my experience.

marie said...

Hi zoe,
Congratulations on your pregnancy :-)
I did not read each and every comment before mine, but it looks like people mostly warn you about bigger breasts. I think it could be helpful for you to know that your ribcage expands quite a lot, making it difficult to wear even empire dresses or tops if they are not stretchy (at least it was like this for me).
And I second Veronica Darling's comment: if ever you decide to breastfeed, you will be happy to have separates rather than dresses.

Janey said...

The Washi pattern is excellent, I've made three so far, two with modifications and they are so comfy. I'm not pregnant but I have already been telling people that they will be great pregnancy dresses because they're so roomy and the elasticated back allows for more growth! I'm already planning more versions of this dress, one with a peter pan collar as you mentioned above!

Katie said...

Washi is a great early pregnancy dress. I wore mine a lot during my small-bump stage (which lasted about 5 seconds, it seems). I also got a lot of use out of my Darling Ranges dresses, and they'll also work for me postpartum when I'm nursing, unlike Washi.

Maternity sewing would be so hard with the first baby since you can't know how your body will change. This is #3 for me so I pretty much know that I will get a ridiculously huge belly but still look totally normal from the back. I'm only 18 weeks and already am bigger than a lot of women in their third trimester! I'll enjoy seeing your progression!

jessica said...

Yeay, congratulations Zoe! Very exciting. I've made a couple Tova's and they come together pretty quickly - if you want to make them faster, I'll bet you could convert the 2 yokes into a single pattern piece and finish off the neckline with bias binding (hm, but lowered slightly). My mom commented they would make great early to mid pregnancy tops, so that's something. Oh, and I refashioned one outta a mens button down - it's probably just long enough on me (and I'm short), but if you've got an XL extra long one, it might work out.

Cherry said...

I think those patterns look great but I agree with someone up there ^ that if you're making over the bump pants make them well high! (under the boob high) I HATED things across the middle of my belly but completely over or underneath were fine.
With your jersey tops is you put vertical gathers down the side of the front panel you'll find they accommodate you from flat to full belly much better!

ranzu alam said...

Hello Zoe,

You are briefly explain here about maternity dress which are stylish and comfortable save for mother and bay, really it is fantastic post and informative, actually pregnancy is very important part of our life and we should need to take special care at this moment.

formal maternity dresses


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Friv100 said...

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