Monday, 18 February 2013

The Ultimate Cropped Trousers?


The 'Ultimate Trousers' is something of a holy grail for most women, I'd wager. The Ultimate anything is a bold enough claim, let alone adding the noun of the most tricksome of sewable garments right next to it! And yet, that is what I am discussing today. 


I must explain that it was not I that chose this title: it is the name of the class I taught last Saturday at Sew Over It in London. To prepare for teaching this class, I naturally wanted to test the pattern and instructions so I could best advise the students who were under my guidance.


Having taken a look at the pattern and measuring a few key points, then comparing the dimensions with what I already know about my physique, I knew some tweaks would need to be made before any fabric got involved. The original pattern has front darts but my ever-present belly was going to need more space, so I eliminated them entirely and added a tiny bit extra width to the side seams at the waistline. I then did what I ALWAYS seem to have to do when making myself trousers or shorts: added 2cm to the back rise to accommodate the bootay my mumma gave me. 


I was hoping that, at best, these would turn out to be a wearable toile. So I picked some stash fabric that wasn't my favourite, but that I also have lots of, so wouldn't be heart-broken or even particularly annoyed if they didn't turn out to be wearable. Goodness knows what type of fabric this is, all I can tell you for sure is that it's pale grey and very soft!


And a wearable toile is what I think I achieved. They have come out a tiny bit tight, so I plan to add 1cm to each side seam to loosen things up, plus I've raised the front rise a little as the waistline dipped down a bit too much at the centre front. Aside from being a shade away from perfect, fit-wise, this is also a colour I can't see myself wearing often, which is why I'm NOT counting these as one of my '12 wearable garments in 12 months' sewlution. But what I am really excited about, is that these are the closest I have ever got to successful fitted trousers!!! I've paid my dues with several failed attempts at Burda magazine and Burdastyle trouser patterns over the years, plus last year I spent far too much time  trying to get the Colette Patterns Clovers to work out. But I think with these I am so close to well fitted trousers. SO CLOSE!!! 


Having made those pattern tweaks I mentioned above, plus lengthening it to make a long version, I'm set to cut out some more in some fabric I really do care about. Watch this space.... Oh, and Lisa from Sew Over It has informed me that this Ultimate Trouser pattern may be one of the patterns they will be releasing for home-sewing in a couple of months time. I'll keep you updated in case you fancy getting your mitts on it too. 

23 comments:

Rebecca Wagner said...

They look great Zoe:)

wendy said...

Those are a really good fit Zoe!

Caffy Bundy said...

Hi Zoe! Fit is great... Need to get my arse in gear and make a pair of maternity clovers.... hmmmmm, should be interesting!

Bundana xxx

Claire (aka Seemane) said...

Hey, they look great Zoe :)!
Maybe you could copy the crotch-curve / top of the pattern to other legs styles to improve fit on your other trouser patterns?

didyoumakethat said...

That fit looks superb to me, Zoe. They look really, really great and I can't wait to see them again in a colour you think you'll wear more often. Good luck with the class!

Masustak eguzkitan said...

Looks comfy and cozy!

Kathryn said...

These look amazing Zoe! I really like them in this colour.

Can I ask how you deal with the extra length you add to the back rise, do you just ease the back side seams into the front side seams when you're sewing?

I need to make this adjustment too but wasn't sure how to deal with it when sewing.

lisa g. said...

ah pants are so satisfying to make! i found my holy grail in sewaholic's thurlow, it's great to know i have a pattern i can rely on. yours look great, can't wait to see the improved version!

Meg the Grand said...

These fit so well! Love the gray and teal together - great job!

Crab and Bee said...

These look great! I'd definitely consider this pattern if they released it. And congrats on doing more teaching!

Rebecca G said...

i'd love to use the pattern if they release it, please do keep us in the loop! Those look marvelous and soooo versatile.

Donna said...

Good-fitting trousers are the holy grail of sewing I think...

Helen said...

These look really good! Trousers are on list of things to attempt this year, but they terrify me even more than my coat is currently doing!

Stevie said...

Fab Zoe, its almost perfect. I'm determined to get clover to work for me! Good luck x

Carolyn said...

They look excellent! You could always dye them a darker colour - dark grey or black even. As for being a little tight- I often find that pants or shorts I've sewn stretch out to fit perfectly after a few (slightly uncomfortable) wears. Maybe that will work for you?

CuriousGem said...

They look good. The last few tweaks should make them perfect. Does the class include much pattern fitting do you know? I'm totally put off by the fact the ones in the photo on the website for the Ultimate Trousers course don't fit properly.

Tasha @ Stale Bread into French Toast said...

Congrats on getting close to your perfect trousers! I've been working on that myself lately, and also getting close! It so exciting, and just so satisfying to be wearing pants I love that fit me, and to know that I can make more whenever I want!

gingermakes said...

These are perfect! I love them! They remind me of a pair that I had in college and wore to death-- I wish I had known how to rub off patterns back then!

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